You’re driving through the Fens, that flat, slightly eerie, but strangely beautiful stretch of East Anglia, and then it happens. The "Ship of the Fens"—Ely Cathedral—rises up out of the mist. It’s huge. It’s intimidatingly old. And if you’re planning to spend any real time here, you’re probably looking at Poets House Hotel Ely as your base of operations.
Honestly, Ely isn't a place for big, soul-less chain hotels. It’s too small for that. Too intimate. Poets House is basically the opposite of a generic Marriott. It’s three Grade II listed buildings—including a former home of a local master—that have been stitched together into this weirdly seamless blend of "I’m staying in a museum" and "I’m in a high-end London boutique."
Staying here feels like a bit of a secret. You've got the cathedral literally a stone's throw away, but once you step inside the hotel, the noise of the day-trippers just... vanishes.
The Weird History of St Mary’s Street
Most people don’t realize that Poets House Hotel Ely isn't just one building. It’s a Frankenstein’s monster of architecture, but in a good way. The main part of the house dates back to the early 1900s, originally serving as the home for the Master of the King’s School. If you walk the hallways, you can feel that academic, slightly stiff-upper-lip history, but the 2013 renovation basically ripped out the carpet and replaced it with copper bathtubs and charcoal-grey walls.
It’s located on St Mary’s Street. That’s important. You’re right next to Oliver Cromwell’s House. Yes, that Cromwell. You can literally walk out the front door, turn left, and you’re standing in the shadow of the man who cancelled Christmas. It’s a heavy bit of history to have for breakfast.
The name "Poets House" isn't just a marketing gimmick either. It refers to the literary heritage of the area and the idea that the hotel is a "poem in brick and mortar." A bit flowery? Maybe. But when you’re sitting in the garden looking at the West Front of the cathedral, you kind of get it.
What the Rooms are Actually Like (Expect Copper)
If you’re booking a room, skip the standard ones if you can swing it. You want the Master Suite. Why? Because of the bath.
Poets House is somewhat famous in the UK hotel scene for its freestanding copper baths. They are massive. They’re also incredibly photogenic, which is why you see them all over Instagram. But beyond the aesthetic, the rooms are surprisingly functional. The beds are huge. Like, "lose your partner in the middle of the night" huge.
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One thing that’s kinda refreshing is the lack of clutter. So many heritage hotels in England feel like your grandmother’s attic—doilies everywhere and the faint smell of damp. Poets House feels crisp. It’s got that dark, moody palette that makes the sunlight hitting the cathedral stone outside pop even more.
A Quick Note on the View
Not every room looks at the Cathedral. If that’s a dealbreaker for you, tell them. Some rooms look over the courtyard or St Mary’s Street. The street view is great for people-watching, but the cathedral view is the reason you’re in Ely. Seeing the "Octagon" tower lit up at 11:00 PM while you’re lounging in a robe is a core memory kind of moment.
Dining at The Dining Room (Yes, that’s the name)
The restaurant at Poets House Hotel Ely—imaginatively named The Dining Room—is a bit of a local hub. It’s not just for tourists. You’ll see locals there for Sunday lunch or afternoon tea.
The food isn't trying to be "molecular" or "deconstructed." It’s just good British produce. Think Dingley Dell pork or Fen-grown vegetables. The Fens might be flat and muddy, but the soil is basically black gold for farmers, so the ingredients are usually top-tier.
- The Bar: It’s called Sonnet. It’s small. It’s dark. It serves a very respectable gin and tonic.
- Afternoon Tea: It’s a big deal here. Don’t expect to eat dinner if you do the full tea service. The scones are usually warm, which is the only way a scone should ever be served.
- Breakfast: The full English is solid, but the smoked haddock is the sleeper hit on the menu.
Is it actually worth the price?
Let’s be real. It’s not the cheapest bed in Cambridgeshire. If you’re on a shoestring budget, there are B&Bs down by the river that will save you fifty quid. But you aren’t just paying for a bed at Poets House.
You’re paying for the fact that you can walk to the Cathedral in 60 seconds. You’re paying for the staff who actually know the difference between a flat white and a latte. You’re paying for the silence.
The hotel changed ownership a few years back (it's now part of the City Heritage Collection), and there was some worry that it might lose its soul. It hasn't. If anything, the service has become more consistent. They’ve leaned into the "luxury escape" vibe rather than trying to be a high-volume wedding factory, though they do still host weddings (and they’re spectacular if you like that sort of thing).
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What Most People Get Wrong About Visiting Ely
People think Ely is a "day trip" town. They take the train from London King's Cross, walk up the hill, see the cathedral, buy a postcard, and leave.
That’s a mistake.
Ely is best in the evening. When the day-trippers go home and the sun starts to set over the Ouse, the town changes. It gets quiet. The ghost stories start to feel a bit more believable. Staying at Poets House Hotel Ely allows you to see the town when it's actually acting like itself.
You can walk down to the waterside—about a 10-minute stroll from the hotel—and watch the narrowboats. There’s a bookstore there called Topping & Company that is, frankly, one of the best in the country. They have rolling ladders and offer you tea while you browse. It’s dangerous for your wallet.
Exploring the Fens
If you have a car, use the hotel as a jump-off point for Wicken Fen. It’s one of the oldest nature reserves in the UK. It gives you an idea of what this whole area looked like before it was drained: wild, swampy, and full of rare dragonflies. It’s a 15-minute drive from the hotel.
Actionable Tips for Your Stay
If you’re actually going to do this, here is how to do it right. Don't just show up and hope for the best.
Book directly. Seriously. Hotels in this category often have better cancellation policies or throw in breakfast if you avoid the big booking sites. Plus, it’s easier to request a specific room (like one with a cathedral view).
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Check the Cathedral schedule. The choir at Ely Cathedral is world-class. If you can time your stay to hear Evensong, do it. You don't have to be religious; the acoustics in that building will vibrate through your ribcage regardless of what you believe.
Parking is a bit of a thing. The hotel has parking, but the streets in Ely were designed for carts and horses, not SUVs. Be patient. If the hotel lot is full, there are public lots nearby, but talk to the reception first—they usually have a workaround.
Dress for the Fens. It’s windier than you think. Even in summer, that wind comes whipping across the flatlands and hits Ely Hill with a vengeance. Pack a decent jacket.
Staying at Poets House Hotel Ely isn't about "finding a place to sleep." It’s about leaning into the weird, wonderful, ecclesiastical history of one of England’s smallest cities without having to sacrifice a high-pressure shower or a decent cocktail. It’s the kind of place where you actually want to spend time in the room, which is the highest compliment you can pay any hotel.
Next time you’re looking at a map of England and wondering where to spend a weekend that isn't just another trip to the Cotswolds, look at that little dot in Cambridgeshire. Get the room with the copper tub. Drink the gin. Look at the cathedral. You won’t regret it.
Practical Next Steps:
- Check the official Poets House website for "Stay & Dine" packages, which usually offer better value than room-only rates.
- If you are traveling by train, it is a 15-minute walk or a 3-minute taxi ride from Ely station.
- Reservations for the restaurant are highly recommended on Friday and Saturday nights, even for hotel guests.