You’re scrolling through a garage sale group or maybe a random "antique treasures" subreddit and there it is. A grainy, poorly lit photo of a wooden fish with rusted hooks. It looks like junk. Honestly, to most people, it is junk. But then you see the comments. People are losing their minds over a "Moonlight Floating Bait" or a "Heddons Dowagiac." Suddenly, that piece of chipped paint is worth three months of mortgage payments.
Understanding pictures of old fishing lures isn't just about nostalgia; it's about a high-stakes market where a single glass eye or a specific shade of "frog" pattern can change the price by thousands of dollars.
It's wild.
Collectors don't just look at these photos for the "vibes." They are hunting for "crazing"—those tiny cracks in the enamel—and the specific shape of the props. If you’ve ever wondered why your grandpa’s tackle box is gathering dust in the attic, you might want to pay attention. You might be sitting on a goldmine, or you might just have a box of lead weights and bad memories.
The Evolution of the Lure: From Wood to Plastic
Before everything was mass-produced in a factory in the 1970s, lures were pieces of folk art. James Heddon is basically the godfather here. Legend has it he was whittling a piece of wood while waiting for a friend and tossed it into the Dowagiac River in Michigan. A bass hit it. Boom. An industry was born. When you see pictures of old fishing lures from the early 1900s, you’re looking at the transition from "survival tool" to "recreational hobby."
The early stuff was wood. Heavy, solid cedar or white pine.
These lures had personality. Companies like Pflueger, South Bend, and Creek Chub didn't just want to catch fish; they wanted to catch the fisherman’s eye. They used glass eyes—actual spheres of glass tucked into the wood—which is a huge "tell" for age. If you see a photo of a lure and the eyes look like shiny marbles rather than painted dots, you’ve likely found something pre-1940.
Then came the transition. After World War II, plastic (specifically Tenite) took over. It was cheaper. It was faster. But for the serious collector, it lost the "soul" of the hand-painted wooden versions.
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Why Condition is Everything (and Why Photos Lie)
Digital photography is a blessing and a curse for the lure world. A high-resolution shot can show you the "scales" on a Creek Chub Pikie, but it can also hide a world of hurt. Repaints are the bane of the hobby. Someone takes a beat-up 1920s lure, applies a fresh coat of hobby paint, and tries to sell it as "Mint."
Professional collectors look for "varnish flakes." Old lures used a specific type of lacquer that yellows and cracks in a very specific way. You can't fake a century of oxidation.
If you're looking at pictures of old fishing lures online, zoom in on the hardware. Are the screws rusted? Are the "gills" indented or just painted on? A "rigged" lure—one with the original hooks and metal collars—is worth five times more than a "naked" lure.
The "Holy Grail" Lures You’ll See in the Best Collections
Not all lures are created equal. Some are the Ferraris of the fishing world.
- The Giant Haskell Minnow: This is the big one. It’s made of copper. It looks like a steampunk fish. Back in 2003, one of these sold for over $100,000. It’s the Honus Wagner T206 of fishing.
- Heddon Frog: Heddon made these early "slop" baits that look like literal frogs with legs. They are terrifyingly expensive if the legs are still intact.
- Copper Spoons: Before the fancy paint, people used hammered copper. These are often overlooked in photos because they look like literal kitchen spoons. Don't throw them away.
It's not just about the brand, though. It’s about the "color code." A common lure in a rare color, like "Gold Scale" or "Blue Speckle," can outperform a rare lure in a common color every day of the week.
The Psychology of the Collector
Why do we care? Why are people spending $500 on a piece of wood that smells like a damp basement?
It’s about a connection to a version of the outdoors that doesn't really exist anymore. It’s about the craftsmanship of a guy in a workshop in 1912 who really thought his "Side-Winder" lure was the pinnacle of technology. There’s a tactile history there. When you hold a 1930s South Bend Bass-Oreno, you’re holding something that has survived decades of water, sun, and tackle box neglect.
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How to Spot a Fake in Pictures
The market is flooded with "reproduction" lures. Big-box retailers started selling "Vintage Series" kits in the 90s. They look old to the untrained eye. They have the wooden bodies and the classic shapes.
But look at the hardware.
Modern screws have Phillips heads (the cross shape). Old lures used flat-head screws. It's a tiny detail, but it’s the quickest way to debunk a "rare find." Also, look at the paint. Modern paint is often too smooth. It’s applied by machines. Old lures have "fat" paint—thicker areas where the brush or the dip-tank left a bit more residue.
Also, check the box. If someone has the original cardboard box, the price triples. Boxes are rarer than the lures because most people ripped them open and threw them in the trash on the way to the lake in 1955.
The Future of the Hobby
We’re seeing a shift. The "Greatest Generation" collectors are aging out, and Gen X and Millennials are coming in. The newcomers aren't as obsessed with 1890s metal baits; they want the neon-colored plastic lures from the 70s and 80s that they used with their dads.
Companies like Rapala or Smithwick from the 1980s are starting to climb in value. It’s all cyclical.
What to Do if You Find a Stash of Old Lures
First, don't clean them. This is the biggest mistake people make. You see some grime and you grab the dish soap and a scrub brush. Stop. You will destroy the patina and potentially strip the original paint.
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Leave them as they are.
Take clear photos in natural light. Don't use a flash; it bounces off the varnish and hides the details. Lay them out on a neutral background like a grey towel or a wooden table. Take a photo of the top, the bottom, and the "face."
Search for a "Lure ID" group on social media or check sites like Joe’s Old Lures. There are people there who can identify a 1924 lure from a blurry thumbnail.
Actionable Steps for New Collectors
- Buy the Book: Get a copy of The NFLCC (National Fishing Lure Collectors Club) Identification and Value Guide. It is the Bible for this stuff.
- Check the Hardware: Look for "L-rig" or "Cup-rig" hook hangers. These are the metal bits that hold the hooks. Different designs correspond to specific years.
- Smell Test: Old Tenite plastic lures have a very distinct, slightly pungent "old plastic" smell. If it smells like a new toy from a big-box store, it probably is.
- Focus on One Brand: Don't try to collect everything. Pick one, like Creek Chub or Shakespeare, and learn every color they ever made. Expertise pays off more than a broad, shallow knowledge.
- Attend a Show: The NFLCC holds regional meets. Go there. Touch the lures. See what a "9/10 condition" lure actually looks like in person.
The world of pictures of old fishing lures is a rabbit hole. One minute you’re looking at a $5 flea market find, and the next you’re debating the merits of "Glass Eye" vs. "Tack Eye" with a guy from Minnesota. It’s a hunt for history, hidden in a tackle box.
Next Steps to Identify Your Finds
To accurately value a lure you've photographed, you need to identify three specific markers: the hook-rigging style, the eye material, and the body material.
- Categorize by Rigging: If the hook is held by a metal cup (Cup-rig) or a small "L" shaped bracket (L-rig), you are likely looking at a lure from the 1920s or 1930s.
- Verify Eye Type: Use a magnifying glass to see if the eyes are painted, made of glass, or are "tack eyes" (small metal tacks). Glass eyes almost always indicate a higher value.
- Check for "Crazing": Look for fine, spider-web-like cracks in the paint. This is a sign of original age and is highly desirable to collectors compared to a smooth, modern repaint.
- Consult a Database: Take your photos to the National Fishing Lure Collectors Club (NFLCC) website or Joe's Old Lures message board to get a consensus from veteran collectors before listing anything for sale.
This process ensures you don't accidentally sell a $500 piece of history for $5 at a yard sale.