You’ve seen them. Those impossibly smooth, shimmering pictures of fish braids (or fishtail braids, if we’re being technical) that dominate Pinterest and Instagram. They look like a piece of intricate DNA or maybe a mermaid’s tail. It’s gorgeous. But honestly, if you’ve ever tried to do one yourself while staring into a foggy bathroom mirror, you probably ended up with something that looks more like a tangled ball of yarn than a high-fashion hairstyle.
It's frustrating.
The gap between what we see in a professional photo and what happens to our own hair is massive. Most people think they just lack the "braiding gene." That's not it. Usually, it's about lighting, hair texture, and a few trade secrets that stylists use to make those photos pop.
The Reality Behind Those Viral Pictures of Fish Braids
Let's be real for a second. Half the pictures of fish braids you see online are heavily supplemented. I’m talking about clip-in extensions. Even if the person has long hair, stylists often add "filler" hair to create that thick, pancaked look. Without that extra volume, a fishtail braid can look surprisingly thin and wimpy.
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Physics is a bit of a jerk here.
In a standard three-strand braid, the hair is divided into large chunks. In a fishtail, you’re using tiny, thin slivers. This compresses the hair significantly. If you start with a ponytail that feels thick, by the time you've crossed over fifty tiny sections, that braid is going to look about half the diameter of your original ponytail. That's why the best photos always feature hair that has been "pancaked"—which is just a fancy way of saying the stylist pulled at the edges to make it look wider.
Texture also matters way more than people admit. If you try to braid "clean" hair—hair you just washed and conditioned—it’s going to be too slippery. It’ll slide right out of your fingers. Most of the top-tier pictures of fish braids feature hair that has been prepped with sea salt spray, dry shampoo, or even a crimper. Yes, a crimper. Crimping the hair before braiding creates a massive amount of internal friction, which keeps the braid from falling apart and adds that "boho" grit that looks so good on camera.
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Why Your Braid Doesn't Look Like the Photo
Lighting is the secret sauce. In those professional shots, the light is usually hitting the braid from the side or slightly behind. This creates shadows in the "valleys" of the braid and highlights on the "peaks." That contrast is what makes the pattern visible. If you’re standing directly under a harsh bathroom light, the braid looks flat. You can't see the detail. It just looks like a fuzzy rope.
Then there’s the "mirror trap." When you look in the mirror to braid, your brain has to flip everything. Left is right. Right is left. You get confused. You drop a strand. By the time you’re halfway down, your arms are screaming because they’ve been held above your head for ten minutes. Professional stylists have the advantage of standing behind the head. They have a bird's-eye view. They aren't fighting their own reflection.
- Prep is 90% of the work. Don't even try this on freshly washed hair. Use a texturizing spray.
- Keep the sections tiny. The smaller the strands you cross over, the more intricate the braid looks.
- Tighten as you go. You can always pull it apart later to make it look messy, but you can't easily tighten a loose, saggy braid once it's finished.
- Check the back. Use a hand mirror to make sure you aren't leaving a weird gap at the nape of your neck.
The Evolution of the Fishtail Style
We call it a fish braid or a fishtail, but it’s actually one of the oldest weaving patterns in human history. It’s basically a two-strand weave. While a French braid incorporates three strands and sits on the scalp, the fishtail is more versatile. You can do a "Dutch fishtail" where the braid sits on top of the hair, or a "fishtail crown."
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Celebrity stylists like Chris Appleton or Jen Atkin often use these braids because they photograph better than almost any other style. The way the light catches the chevron pattern is just... chef's kiss. But even they will tell you that the "perfect" messy look takes a lot of intentional effort. It’s "planned chaos."
Practical Steps for Better Braids
If you want your hair to actually resemble those pictures of fish braids you've been saving, stop focusing on the braiding technique alone. Start focusing on the foundation.
First, get some "grip" in your hair. If you don't have a texturizing spray, even a bit of hairspray on your fingers while you braid can help. Second, don't braid all the way to the very tip. Leave an inch or two at the bottom. It looks more modern and prevents the braid from looking like a rat's tail. Third, once the elastic is on, start from the bottom and gently—GENTLY—tug at the outer loops of the braid. This is the pancaking process. It transforms a tight, skinny braid into a lush, full one.
Also, consider the color of your hair. Fishtail braids show up best on hair with highlights or dimensions. If your hair is one solid, very dark color, the intricate details of the braid often get lost in photos because there’s no color contrast to define the strands. In that case, you might want to use a shine spray to help the light catch the edges of the weave.
Your Action Plan for the Perfect Braid
- Skip the wash. Use second or third-day hair for the best natural grip.
- Sectioning. Divide your hair into two equal halves. That’s it. Just two.
- The Over-Under. Take a tiny piece from the outside of the left section and pass it over to the inside of the right section. Then take a tiny piece from the outside of the right and pass it over to the left.
- The "Pancake" Finish. Hold the end of the braid firmly and use your other hand to pull the edges out. Do this slowly. If you pull too hard, the whole thing will collapse.
- Set it. Use a light-hold hairspray. You want to see the flyaways—they make it look "real"—but you don't want the whole structure to slide down your back by lunchtime.
Stop comparing your "work in progress" to a finished, edited, professional photo. Most of those images involve hours of prep and a ring light. Focus on the tension and the consistency of your sections. With enough practice, you’ll find that the "perfect" braid isn't the one that looks like a photo; it's the one that stays put while you go about your day.