Manitou Springs is weird. I mean that in the best way possible. It’s this tiny, crunchy, incredibly vertical town tucked into the shadow of Pikes Peak where people go to drink mineral water that tastes like pennies and climb stairs that lead to literal exhaustion. But if you’re looking for a place to actually stay—somewhere that doesn't feel like a sterile Marriott or a drafty, haunted attic—you basically have to look at the Onaledge Historic Lodge at Sun Mountain Center.
It’s an Arts and Crafts masterpiece. Seriously. Built back in 1912, it looks like it grew out of the red rocks rather than being placed on top of them. You’ve probably driven past it a dozen times if you’ve ever gone to the Penny Arcade or tried to find parking for the Incline. It sits on a six-acre wellness retreat known as Sun Mountain Center, and honestly, the vibe is just different here. It’s quiet. Like, "can hear the wind in the ponderosa pines" quiet.
Most people book a hotel because they need a bed. You book Onaledge because you need to breathe. The property was originally the estate of a wealthy Texan named William Smiley—cousin to the guys who built the famous Mohonk Mountain House in New York. You can see that influence in the massive stone masonry and the way the porches wrap around the building. It’s not just a lodge; it’s a time capsule with better linens and high-speed Wi-Fi.
The Architecture of Onaledge Historic Lodge at Sun Mountain Center
If you’re an architecture nerd, you’re going to lose it. The Arts and Crafts movement was all about "honesty in materials," and Onaledge is basically a poster child for that philosophy. We’re talking about massive, hand-cut stone blocks and thick wooden beams. The stones were actually quarried right there in Manitou.
The lodge features these sprawling patios that overlook the Garden of the Gods. On a clear morning—which is most mornings in Colorado—the light hits those red sandstone fins and everything turns a weirdly beautiful shade of burnt orange. It’s spectacular. You can sit out there with a coffee and feel like a 19th-century industrialist taking a "rest cure," except you have a smartphone.
Inside, the woodwork is heavy and dark. It’s grounding. The rooms aren't these cookie-cutter squares you find in a Hilton. They have weird angles, original built-ins, and fireplaces that look like they could roast a whole hog (please don't try that). Each room is named, not numbered. You might stay in the Rockledge or the Onaledge suite. It feels more like a wealthy uncle’s mountain manor than a commercial hospitality venture.
Why Sun Mountain Center Changes the Experience
You can't really talk about the lodge without talking about the Sun Mountain Center. They are inextricably linked. This isn't just a place to sleep; it’s a "bio-dynamic" farm and wellness retreat.
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What does that mean in plain English? It means they grow their own food. They have greenhouses and gardens that supply the kitchen. When you eat breakfast here, the greens were likely picked that morning. The eggs probably came from chickens that live a better life than most of us. It’s a holistic approach to travel that most places just pay lip service to.
- The Spa: They offer soaking tubs and mineral baths. It’s Manitou, after all. The water is a huge part of the history here.
- The Grounds: You have six acres to wander. There are meditation labyrinths and hidden benches.
- The Food: It’s largely plant-based and incredibly fresh. Even if you’re a "steak and potatoes" kind of person, the quality of the produce here is enough to make you reconsider your life choices.
The owner, Kat Tudor, has a very specific vision for the place. She’s also behind Smokebrush Foundation for the Arts. You’ll see art everywhere—funky sculptures, paintings, and little creative touches that remind you you’re in an artist’s colony. It keeps the historic lodge from feeling stuffy or like a museum where you can't touch anything.
What Most People Get Wrong About Manitou Springs Lodging
A lot of travelers make the mistake of staying down on the main drag because they want to be "close to the action." Here’s the reality: Manitou is loud. Between the Harley-Davidsons revving their engines and the crowds of tourists, the downtown strip can be a sensory overload.
Onaledge Historic Lodge at Sun Mountain Center is only a few blocks away, but it’s elevated. That elevation creates a physical and psychological barrier against the noise. You’re close enough to walk down to the Mates Spring for a sip of "the bubbly," but far enough away that you don't hear the Penny Arcade bells at 10:00 PM.
Another misconception? That historic means "old and broken." People hear "1912" and think about leaky faucets or drafty windows. While the lodge definitely has character (and the occasional creak in the floorboards), the renovation work has been meticulous. The bathrooms are modern. The beds are high-end. It’s luxury, but it’s rustic luxury. Think Patagonia, not Louis Vuitton.
The Practical Realities of Staying Here
Let's be real for a second. If you have mobility issues, Manitou Springs in general is a challenge. Onaledge is built on a hillside. There are stairs. There are slopes. It’s beautiful, but it requires a bit of physical effort to navigate the grounds.
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Parking can also be a bit of a squeeze, as is common with any historic property in a mountain town. They’ve done their best to accommodate, but don't expect a massive paved parking lot with valet service. You're trading that corporate convenience for soul and history.
Also, the dining. As mentioned, it’s a wellness-focused center. If you’re looking for a 2:00 AM cheeseburger delivered to your room, you’re in the wrong place. But if you want a nourishing, organic meal that makes you feel like a functional human being, you’re in luck.
Exploring the Neighborhood
Since you’re staying at Onaledge, you’re basically at the gateway to the best hiking in the Pikes Peak region.
- The Manitou Incline: It’s less than a mile away. If you want to punish your quads by climbing 2,744 steps, go for it. Just remember to make a reservation; they’re strict about that now.
- Barr Trail: This is the "sane" way to get up the mountain. It starts right near the Incline base. You can hike a few miles in for some great views without committing to the full 13-mile trek to the summit.
- The Mineral Springs: There are eight or nine public springs scattered throughout town. Grab a cup and do a tasting tour. Some are sweet, some are super carbonated, and some taste like a swamp. It’s a local rite of passage.
- Garden of the Gods: You can actually see the back side of the park from the lodge. It’s a five-minute drive or a decent walk to get to the main entrance.
Sustainability and Local Impact
In 2026, we’re all a bit more conscious of where our money goes. Onaledge isn't owned by a massive hedge fund. It’s part of a local ecosystem. By staying there, you’re supporting the preservation of a Colorado State Register of Historic Properties site.
The "Sun Mountain" part of the name refers to the solar orientation of the land. The property was designed to catch the sun, which was a huge deal for "health seekers" in the early 1900s who came here to treat tuberculosis. Today, that same sunshine powers the gardens and keeps the lodge feeling bright and airy even in the middle of winter.
They use eco-friendly cleaning products and focus heavily on waste reduction. It’s not just "greenwashing" for marketing purposes; it’s baked into the way they operate. If you care about your carbon footprint, this is one of the few places in the Pikes Peak region where you can stay and feel genuinely good about it.
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Making the Most of Your Stay
Honestly, don't overschedule yourself. The biggest mistake people make when visiting Colorado is trying to see five different parks in three days.
Spend a morning just sitting on the porch at Onaledge. Watch the magpies. Drink the local tea. The lodge is designed for "slow travel." It’s a place where you can actually finish a book.
If you’re coming for a romantic getaway, the suites are incredible. If you’re coming for a solo "reset," the quiet energy of the Sun Mountain Center is perfect. It’s one of those rare places that manages to be both impressive and cozy at the same time.
How to Book and What to Pack
- Book Direct: Usually, you’ll get better communication and sometimes a better rate if you go through the Sun Mountain Center website rather than the big travel aggregators.
- Layers: It’s Colorado. It can be 70 degrees at noon and 30 degrees at 6:00 PM. Bring a jacket even in July.
- Good Shoes: Between the gravel paths on the property and the hilly streets of Manitou, your fancy loafers aren't going to cut it.
- An Open Mind: The wellness aspect (yoga, meditation, plant-based food) is a big part of the culture here. Even if you aren't into that stuff, give it a shot. It’s part of the experience.
The Onaledge Historic Lodge at Sun Mountain Center represents the best of what Manitou Springs used to be and what it’s trying to become. It’s a bridge between the "health resort" history of the 1900s and the modern wellness movement. It’s a bit quirky, totally unique, and arguably the most authentic place to stay in the Pikes Peak region.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Check Availability: Visit the official Sun Mountain Center website to see the specific layout of the Onaledge suites, as each one has a completely different floor plan and view.
- Research the Springs: Download a map of the Manitou Mineral Springs before you arrive so you can plan a walking tour starting from the lodge.
- Reserve the Incline: If you plan on hiking the Manitou Incline during your stay, book your time slot at least a week in advance through the city’s reservation system, as spots fill up fast.
- Dietary Prep: If you have specific dietary needs, contact the center 48 hours before arrival; they are famously accommodating with their farm-to-table breakfast menu but appreciate the heads-up.