Let's be real for a second. If you walked into a backyard BBQ ten years ago and saw a guy wearing chunky, grey New Balance 990s, you probably assumed he was there to talk about his lawn or the specific torque of his new power drill. They were the quintessential "dad shoes." They were the New Balance old man shoes that your grandfather wore because his podiatrist literally demanded it.
But then something weird happened.
The fashion world, which usually spends its time chasing the sleekest, thinnest, most "futuristic" silhouettes, suddenly decided that looking like a retired suburban accountant was... cool? It wasn't just a fluke. It was a massive cultural shift that turned the most "boring" footwear on the planet into a status symbol that now sells out in minutes.
The Science of Why Your Feet Love Them
Most people buy these because they're trendy now, but they stay because of the tech. It's actually kind of impressive when you look at the engineering. Take the New Balance 990 series. It’s been around since 1982. When it first launched, it was the first running shoe to hit a $100 price tag. People thought that was insane back then.
The reason they’re so comfortable—and why they earned that New Balance old man shoes reputation—is the stability. New Balance uses something called an ENCAP midsole. Essentially, it’s a core of soft EVA (the squishy stuff) ringed by a tough polyurethane rim. It’s built to prevent your foot from rolling inward, which is a lifesaver if you have flat feet or bad knees.
Honestly, most modern "hyped" sneakers feel like walking on cardboard after four hours. These don't. That’s the secret. The "old men" were right all along. They weren't choosing style over substance; they were choosing a shoe that wouldn't leave them hobbling by 4:00 PM.
Breaking Down the Legend: The 992 and 993
You've probably seen the 992. It's the shoe Steve Jobs wore during every major Apple keynote. It became the unofficial uniform of the "normcore" movement. It’s bulky. It has those weird translucent gel pods in the heel. It looks like it belongs in a 1990s Sears catalog.
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But here is the thing: the 992 and 993 models are handmade in the USA (specifically in Maine and Massachusetts). Because New Balance still operates factories in the States, the quality control is significantly higher than your average mass-produced sneaker. You get pigskin suede. You get breathable mesh that actually breathes. You get a shoe that lasts five years instead of five months.
How Irony Saved the Dad Shoe
In the late 2010s, designers like Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga and Kanye West with the Yeezy 700 started pushing "ugly-cool" aesthetics. They looked at the New Balance old man shoes and saw an opportunity. It was a rebellion against the sock-like, ultra-slim shoes that dominated the early 2010s.
Suddenly, the "chunky" look was everywhere.
The 574 is the entry-level drug. It’s cheaper, usually around $90. It’s the shoe everyone has owned at least once. But the real street-cred lives in the 2002R and the 1906R models. These were originally high-performance technical runners that failed to find an audience when they first launched in the 2000s. Now, thanks to collaborations with brands like Aime Leon Dore, they are some of the most sought-after kicks on the secondary market.
It's funny. You’ll see a 19-year-old kid in Soho wearing the exact same pair of grey 990v5s as a 70-year-old man in a Florida retirement community. The only difference is the price of their pants.
Is It All Just Marketing?
Well, sort of. New Balance leaned into it. Their "Worn by Supermodels in London and Dads in Ohio" ad campaign is legendary. It was an honest admission. They didn't try to hide the "old man" stigma—they weaponized it. They realized that in a world of fast fashion and disposable trends, "consistency" is actually a luxury.
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What to Look for if You're Actually Buying
If you're looking to grab a pair of New Balance old man shoes, don't just buy the first grey ones you see. There are levels to this.
- The 990v6: This is the newest iteration. It’s got FuelCell foam, which is what New Balance puts in their elite marathon racing shoes. It's much bouncier than previous versions. If you have "old man" joints but want a modern feel, this is the one.
- The 550: This is a low-top basketball shoe from the 80s. It’s not really a "dad shoe" in the traditional sense, but it has that vintage, chunky vibe that fits the aesthetic.
- The 9060: This one is weird. It looks like a spaceship. It’s the "dad shoe" on steroids. It’s polarizing, but if you want to stand out, that's your go-to.
One thing to keep in mind: New Balance is one of the few brands that offers multiple widths. Most shoes are just "standard." New Balance does Narrow (B), Standard (D), Wide (2E), and Extra Wide (4E). That’s a huge deal. If you've spent your life squeezing your wide feet into narrow Nikes, putting on a 2E New Balance will feel like a religious experience.
The Reality of the "Dad Shoe" Price Tag
Let's talk money.
The "Made in USA" line isn't cheap. You’re looking at $185 to $220. That is a lot for a shoe that looks like a cloud of grey dust. However, from a cost-per-wear perspective, they’re actually a better deal than the $110 mall shoes. The midsoles don't compress as fast. The suede doesn't tear as easily.
There's also the resale value. Certain colorways of these "old man" shoes can go for $400+ on sites like StockX. It’s a bizarre world where a shoe designed for maximum arch support is now a blue-chip asset.
Why Grey?
New Balance is obsessed with the color grey. They even have "Grey Day" every year to celebrate it. Why? Because it’s practical. It doesn’t show dirt as much as white. It doesn't fade as weirdly as black. It matches literally everything. It’s the most "neutral" a person can be.
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How to Style Them Without Looking Like You're About to Mow the Lawn
If you're worried about looking too much like a dad, the key is the silhouette of your pants.
If you wear baggy, light-wash denim and a stained t-shirt, yeah, you look like you’re headed to the hardware store. But if you pair them with cropped trousers or high-quality sweatpants and a structured coat, the shoes act as a grounding element. They provide a "heavy" base for the outfit.
Honestly, the best way to wear New Balance old man shoes is with confidence. The whole point of the look is that you don't care about being flashy. You care about quality. You care about your feet not hurting. There is a certain kind of power in that.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Purchase
Don't just jump into the deep end. Start by figuring out your actual foot shape. Most people wear shoes that are a half-size too small because they don't account for foot swell throughout the day.
- Measure your foot at a store using a Brannock device. Don't guess.
- Decide on your budget. If you want the "Made in" quality, save up for the 990 series. If you just want the look, the 574 or 2002R will get you there for much less.
- Check the model number. New Balance numbers can be confusing. Generally, the higher the number, the more tech is in the shoe. The 900 series is for stability and lifestyle. The 1000 series is usually more performance-oriented.
- Look for the "Made in USA/UK" tag if you want the premium materials. It makes a difference in how the suede ages over time.
- Ignore the "dad" labels. If the shoes are comfortable and you like the way they look with your wardrobe, that’s all that matters.
The "old man" shoe isn't a trend anymore; it's a staple. It’s the shift from wanting to look fast to wanting to feel good. And honestly? That's a shift we should have made a long time ago. Stop punishing your feet for the sake of a logo. Grab the grey ones. Your knees will thank you in ten years.