Let's be honest. Ten years ago, if you wore a pair of chunky, grey New Balance grandpa shoes to a bar, your friends would have probably asked if you were planning to mow the lawn later. It was a specific look. It screamed "orthopedic support" and "I have a Costco membership." But something shifted. Suddenly, the shoes that Steve Jobs wore because they were practical became the shoes that every supermodel in Paris wears because they are "ironic" or "normcore."
It's a weird trajectory.
We’re talking about a brand that spent decades leaning into the "dad shoe" trope before it was even a trope. They didn't fight it. They just kept making the 990 series. While other brands were trying to make shoes look like spaceships, New Balance was busy perfecting the art of the grey suede upper and the ENCAP midsole. It turns out that when you build something purely for function, fashion eventually catches up to you.
The Anatomy of a Classic: What Makes a Shoe a "Grandpa" Shoe?
So, what are we actually talking about when we say New Balance grandpa shoes? Usually, people are referring to the 900 series, specifically the 990v3, v4, v5, and now the v6. These are the heavy hitters. They have that signature chunky silhouette, a mix of pigskin suede and breathable mesh, and a color palette that rarely ventures outside of "Castle Rock" grey.
The appeal is basically rooted in honesty.
There is no gimmick here. When you look at the 992 or the 2002R, you’re seeing visible technology that actually does something. The ABZORB cushioning isn't just a cool-sounding word; it’s a polymer that stays squishy without bottoming out. That’s why your literal grandfather liked them. He wasn't trying to impress the kids at the skatepark; he just wanted to walk to the mailbox without his plantar fasciitis flaring up.
But for the younger crowd, that "ugly" aesthetic became a shield against the hyper-polished, over-designed world of fast fashion. It’s authentic.
🔗 Read more: Curtain Bangs on Fine Hair: Why Yours Probably Look Flat and How to Fix It
Why Your Podiatrist and Your Cool Cousin Finally Agree
It is rare to find a product that satisfies both a medical professional and a TikTok trendsetter. Usually, those two worlds are at war. Your podiatrist wants you in wide-toe-box, stable-heeled behemoths. Your cool cousin wants you in paper-thin canvas flats that offer the structural integrity of a wet napkin.
New Balance grandpa shoes bridge that gap.
Take the 990v6, for example. It uses FuelCell foam, which is the same high-rebound stuff New Balance puts in their elite marathon racing shoes. You get the "dad" look on the outside, but the internal tech is actually cutting-edge. It’s a bait-and-switch where the "bait" is orthopedic comfort and the "switch" is high-performance engineering.
Dr. Miguel Cunha, a well-known podiatrist in New York, has often pointed out that the stability offered by the New Balance 990 series is superior because of the wide base. It prevents overpronation. It keeps the foot neutral. Most fashion sneakers are too narrow, squeezing the metatarsals and causing all sorts of long-term drama. With these, you actually have room to breathe.
The "Grey" Obsession
Why grey? It’s the most boring color in the world, yet New Balance has managed to make it a status symbol. They even have an annual "Grey Day" to celebrate it.
The story goes back to the early 80s. Most running shoes were white, and they got dirty immediately. New Balance released the original 990 in a premium grey suede so that urban runners could go for miles without their shoes looking like a disaster. It was a solution to a practical problem. Today, that specific shade of grey signifies a "if you know, you know" level of taste. It says you value heritage over hype.
💡 You might also like: Bates Nut Farm Woods Valley Road Valley Center CA: Why Everyone Still Goes After 100 Years
How to Spot the Real Icons
Not every New Balance is a "grandpa shoe." If it’s neon green and weighs four ounces, it doesn't count. You’re looking for the substantial stuff.
- The 990v5: This is the quintessential version. It has the TPU power strap on the side and the "Made in the USA" tongue label. It’s sturdy.
- The 574: The entry-level drug. It’s cheaper, a bit more rounded, and comes in every color imaginable, but the grey 574 is the foundational "dad" sneaker for people on a budget.
- The 9060: This is the "grandpa shoe" on acid. It takes the DNA of the 990 and exaggerates the sole until it looks like something from a sci-fi movie. It’s huge. It’s polarizing. It’s very popular right now.
- The 624: This is the actual grandpa shoe. The one you find at the pharmacy. All white, all leather, mostly worn by people who don't know what an Instagram is. While the fashion world loves the 990, the 624 is the true king of the suburban cul-de-sac.
The Sustainability of Not Following Trends
There is a subtle environmental argument for the New Balance grandpa shoes craze. Because these designs don't really change—the 990 has only had six major iterations in forty years—they don't go out of style.
Think about that.
If you bought a pair of 990s in 2015, they still look perfectly relevant in 2026. You aren't caught in the cycle of buying "chunky" shoes one year and "slim" shoes the next. They are just... shoes. They are durable, often repairable, and built with higher-quality materials (especially the Made in USA/UK lines) than your average mass-produced foam runner.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Fit
Here is a pro tip: New Balance fits differently than Nike or Adidas.
Most people buy their "usual" size and then wonder why the shoes feel a bit clunky. New Balance is famous for offering multiple widths—D, 2E, 4E, and even 6E. This is the secret sauce. If you have a wide foot, you shouldn't be sizing up in length; you should be buying a wide-width shoe.
📖 Related: Why T. Pepin’s Hospitality Centre Still Dominates the Tampa Event Scene
Also, the "Made" series tends to run a tiny bit large. If you’re dropping $200 on a pair of v6s, you might want to go down a half-size if you like a snug fit, or stay true-to-size if you plan on wearing those thick, Costco-brand wool socks (to complete the transformation).
Practical Next Steps for Your Feet
If you are tired of your feet hurting at the end of a workday or you’re just done with flimsy sneakers that fall apart in six months, it’s time to lean into the aesthetic.
First, go to a physical store and get your feet measured on a Brannock device. Don't guess. Determine if you actually need a wide (2E) fit. Most men do and just don't realize it.
Second, decide on your "Made" preference. The "Made in USA" line uses higher-quality pigskin suede and domestic labor, which reflects in the price point. If you want the look without the $200 price tag, look at the 2002R or the 1906R models. They offer a similar "technical" look but are manufactured overseas to keep the cost around $140.
Finally, embrace the grey. It goes with literally everything—denim, chinos, even a suit if you’re feeling bold. You’re not wearing a trend; you’re wearing a piece of engineering history that just happens to be very comfortable. Stop worrying about looking like a dad. Dads are comfortable. Dads have their lives together.
Invest in a suede brush and some water repellent. High-quality suede hates the rain, but if you treat it right, these shoes will easily last you three to four years of daily wear. That’s more than you can say for almost any other sneaker on the market right now.
Check the heel counter before you buy. If you can't pinch the back of the shoe together, it has good structural integrity. That’s the hallmark of a real New Balance grandpa shoe. If it's floppy, it’s just a fashion shoe. Stick to the classics, keep the laces somewhat tight, and enjoy the fact that for once, the most comfortable option is also the most stylish one.