You probably think liquorice is just a rubbery black stick from a gas station. Honestly? Most of what we eat isn't even real liquorice. It’s mostly wheat flour, sugar, and enough corn syrup to glue a shoe back together. If you want the real deal—the stuff that actually tastes like the Glycyrrhiza glabra root—you have to get your hands dirty. Making liquorice at home is part chemistry, part patience, and a whole lot of stirring. It’s sticky. It's frustrating. But when that deep, earthy sweetness hits your tongue, you'll never go back to the plastic-wrapped version.
The truth is that the "how to make liquorice" process hasn't changed much in centuries, even if big factories use giant extruders now. It’s all about the reduction of liquids and the gelatinization of starch. You're basically creating a thick, medicinal caramel.
The Science of the Root
Before you start boiling sugar, you need to understand the star of the show: liquorice root. This isn't just a flavoring. It contains glycyrrhizin. This compound is fifty times sweeter than sucrose. That's insane. It’s why real liquorice has that lingering, coat-your-throat sweetness that sugar can’t replicate.
Most home cooks make a fatal mistake early on. They buy "liquorice flavoring" which is usually just anise oil. While anise tastes similar, it lacks the woodsy, complex bass notes of the actual root. If you want to do this right, you need high-quality liquorice extract or powder. Look for brands like Amarelli or Nature’s Way. They use the real stuff.
Why Texture Is the Hardest Part
Ever wonder why some liquorice is soft like a gummy bear and some is hard enough to snap a tooth? It’s the moisture content. And the flour. Most traditional recipes use wheat flour as a binder. The gluten provides that specific "chew" that distinguishes liquorice from a standard hard candy.
If you’re gluten-free, you’re in for a challenge. You can use rice flour or cornstarch, but the texture becomes more "gel-like" and less "rope-like." It's a trade-off. You have to decide if you want a classic rope or a modern chew.
Getting Started: The Basic Ratios
Forget those "quick and easy" recipes that tell you to melt down store-bought gummies. That’s cheating. To make liquorice from scratch, you need a heavy-bottomed pot. If you use a thin pan, the sugar will burn before the flour even thinks about thickening.
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You'll need:
- 1 cup of molasses (Blackstrap is too bitter; use unsulphured)
- 1 teaspoon of liquorice root powder
- 1 cup of granulated sugar (or dark brown sugar for more depth)
- Half a cup of all-purpose flour
- A pinch of kosher salt
- 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter
- Optional: Half a teaspoon of anise extract (for that "extra" kick)
The Boiling Point
Start by combining your molasses, sugar, and butter in the pot. You want to melt this down over medium heat. Do not walk away. Sugar is a fickle beast; it goes from perfect to charred in about twelve seconds.
Once it’s bubbling, whisk in your liquorice powder and salt. Now comes the tricky part. You need to sift in the flour slowly. If you dump it all in at once, you’ll get flour clumps that taste like raw bread in the middle of your candy. It's gross. Whisk it like your life depends on it.
How to Make Liquorice with the Cold Water Test
You don't necessarily need a candy thermometer, though it helps. You’re looking for the "firm ball" stage. If you're using a thermometer, that’s roughly 245 degrees Fahrenheit.
But honestly? Use the cold water test. Drop a small spoonful of the hot mixture into a glass of ice-cold water. Reach in and try to form a ball with your fingers. If it stays together but feels squishy, you’re there. If it dissolves, keep boiling. If it turns into a hard rock, you’ve gone too far and you're making "toffee liquorice." Which, hey, isn't the worst mistake to make.
The Cooling and Shaping Phase
Once the mixture is thick enough to pull away from the sides of the pot, it's time to pour. Line a square baking dish with parchment paper. Butter that paper. Seriously, grease it like crazy. Liquorice is basically industrial-grade adhesive when it's hot.
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Let it sit at room temperature for at least four hours. Don't put it in the fridge. The humidity in a refrigerator can mess with the sugar crystallization, making the final product feel "grainy" instead of smooth. You want a slow, steady cool-down.
Modern Variations and Health Warnings
We have to talk about the elephant in the room. Glycyrrhizin, the stuff that makes liquorice awesome, can actually be dangerous if you overdo it. The FDA has warned that eating too much real black liquorice can lead to potassium levels dropping. This can cause heart arrhythmias or high blood pressure.
Basically, don't eat a pound of it in one sitting.
If you're making this for someone with high blood pressure, you might want to look into DGL (Deglycyrrhizinated) liquorice powder, though it loses some of that signature sweetness.
Why Is Most Liquorice Black?
Fun fact: Real liquorice paste is actually a deep, muddy brown. The jet-black color we see in stores is almost always added carbon black or vegetable dyes. If you want that classic look at home, you’ll need a few drops of black food coloring. Without it, your homemade batch will look like dark chocolate or thick molasses. It tastes the same, but the "vibe" is different.
Advanced Techniques: The Salty Nordic Style
If you really want to dive deep into the world of "how to make liquorice," you have to mention salmiak. This is the salty liquorice popular in Scandinavia and the Netherlands.
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They use ammonium chloride.
It sounds like something you’d find in a chemistry lab (because it is), but it adds a sharp, stinging saltiness that balances the sweetness of the root. It’s an acquired taste. Most Americans hate it on the first try. It feels like a tiny electric shock on your tongue. But for those who love it, nothing else compares. If you want to try this, add about a teaspoon of food-grade ammonium chloride to your flour mixture.
Troubleshooting Your Batch
Is your liquorice too sticky? You probably didn't cook it long enough. You can actually put it back in the pot with a splash of water, melt it down, and try again. Sugar is forgiving that way.
Is it too hard? You cooked it too long. Your best bet here is to chop it into tiny bits and use it as a topping for vanilla ice cream. It's a "feature," not a "bug."
Professional Storage Secrets
Don't leave your finished candy out on the counter. It will either dry out into a brick or absorb moisture from the air and become a puddle. Wrap individual pieces in wax paper and store them in an airtight tin. If you did it right, the flavor will actually "mature" over a couple of days. The herbal notes of the root become more pronounced as the sugar stabilizes.
Actionable Next Steps
To get the best results on your first attempt, follow these specific technical adjustments:
- Source Real Root: Order 100% pure Glycyrrhiza glabra powder rather than relying on extracts, which often contain fillers.
- Calibrate Your Heat: Use a digital thermometer to hit exactly 240-245°F (115-118°C) to ensure the flour starch fully hydrates without scorching the molasses.
- The "Cure" Time: Let the set liquorice "cure" in a cool, dry place for 24 hours before cutting. This develops the characteristic "snap" found in premium brands like Lakrids by Bülow.
- Emulsify: If your butter starts to separate from the molasses during the boil, add a tiny pinch of lecithin or just whisk vigorously to re-incorporate the fats for a smoother mouthfeel.
The process of making liquorice is more about "feel" than following a rigid script. Watch the bubbles. Smell the change from "sweet" to "toasted." Once you master the base recipe, you can experiment with additions like sea salt, chili flakes, or even a dip in high-quality dark chocolate.