Palm Springs is a place built on ghosts. You feel it the second you pull off Highway 111. There’s this weird, beautiful friction between the mid-century past and the neon-soaked present. But if you’re looking for The Riviera Resort and Spa Palm Springs, you might get a little confused. Technically, that specific name is gone. It’s now the Margaritaville Resort Palm Springs.
Does that matter? Honestly, it depends on whether you're looking for a history lesson or a frozen margarita.
The property at 1600 North Indian Canyon Drive isn't just a hotel; it’s a landmark. When it opened in 1959, it was the first "luxury resort" in the desert. It wasn't just a place to sleep. It was the place where Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin basically lived. It was the epicenter of the "Rat Pack" era. If those walls could talk, they’d probably need a lawyer.
The Identity Crisis of a Desert Icon
The transition from the old-school Riviera Resort and Spa Palm Springs to a Jimmy Buffett-themed paradise was, let’s say, polarizing. Longtime desert locals were skeptical. How do you take a place defined by tuxedo-clad crooners and turn it into a world of flip-flops and 5 o'clock shadows?
The answer is surprisingly simple: you keep the bones.
The physical layout of the resort is still that iconic "spoke" design. From the air, it looks like a giant, mid-century starburst. That hasn't changed. Even under the Margaritaville banner, the architecture screams 1960s futurism. You’ve still got those massive, sweeping overhangs and the sprawling pool area that made it famous.
But the vibe? That's shifted.
The old Riviera was heavy on the velvet, the dark woods, and the "shaken, not stirred" atmosphere. It went through a massive $70 million renovation around 2008 that tried to recapture that Hollywood Regency glam. It was stunning—lots of mirrors, chandeliers, and deep purples. It felt like a movie set.
Now, it’s brighter. Airier. There’s a giant blue flip-flop sculpture in the lobby. It's less "Ocean's Eleven" and more "License to Chill."
What People Actually Get Wrong About the Transition
Most people think the resort lost its soul when it changed names. That’s a bit of an exaggeration.
If you walk through the corridors today, the nostalgia is still there, just tucked behind a tropical veneer. The St. Somewhere Spa (formerly the Spa Terre) is still one of the largest in the city. We’re talking 11,000 square feet. It’s a beast. They still offer treatments that feel high-end, even if the soundtrack is a little more island-inspired than it used to be.
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One thing that hasn't changed? The heat.
Palm Springs in July is a kiln. The Riviera—or Margaritaville, whatever you want to call it—was designed for this. The pools are massive. They are the heart of the property. Back in the 60s, the pool was where deals were made. Today, it’s where you find the best people-watching in the Coachella Valley.
Staying at the Property Today: The Realities
If you’re booking a room here, don’t expect a boutique experience. This is a massive resort. It has nearly 400 rooms.
The rooms themselves are huge. That’s a legacy of the original 1959 construction. Back then, "luxury" meant space. You get high ceilings and, in many cases, private patios or balconies that look out over the San Jacinto Mountains.
- The "Old" Riviera: Dark, moody, seductive.
- The "New" Experience: White linens, light wood, pops of turquoise.
Is it "luxury" in the way the Ritz-Carlton is luxury? No. It’s a 4-star experience that leans heavily into the resort lifestyle. It’s built for groups, bachelorette parties, and families who want a centralized hub.
The Food Situation
Let’s talk about the food. For years, the Circa 59 restaurant was the place for a steak and a stiff drink. It was dark and felt like a secret.
Now, you have JWB Grill and the 5 o’Clock Somewhere Bar. It’s a different beast. The menu is more accessible—think fish tacos and burgers. It’s good, but it’s not the fine-dining destination it once was. If you want that old Riviera culinary feel, you’re probably better off heading downtown to Melvyn’s or Mr. Lyons. Those places still have the ghosts of 1965 in the kitchen.
Why This Location Still Wins
Even with the rebranding, the location is unbeatable. You’re at the north end of the city. This is the "Uptown Design District."
You can walk—well, maybe not in August—to some of the best mid-century modern furniture shops and art galleries in the country. You’re minutes away from the Aerial Tramway.
A Note on the "Vibe"
There’s a specific energy here. It’s relaxed.
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I’ve spent time at the Parker and the Viceroy (now Avalon). Those places are "curated." They are very conscious of their aesthetic. The Riviera Resort and Spa Palm Springs, in its current iteration, is less concerned with being "cool" and more concerned with being fun.
That’s a distinction that matters.
If you want to wear a vintage caftan and pose by the pool for Instagram, you can do that here. But you’ll be doing it next to a family from Ohio and a group of guys on a golf trip. It’s democratic.
The Architectural Significance (For the Nerds)
We have to talk about Irwin Schuman. He was the man behind the original Riviera. He wanted to bring Las Vegas-style scale to Palm Springs.
Before the Riviera, Palm Springs was mostly small motels and private estates. Schuman changed the game. He proved that you could build a massive, sprawling resort and people would come. He hired architect Roy Fey to bring the vision to life.
The "L" and "T" shaped wings were revolutionary for the time. They allowed almost every room to have a view of either the pool or the mountains. When you stay there today, you're interacting with that specific 1950s urban planning. It’s a piece of living history, even if there are more palm tree prints on the walls than there used to be.
Is it still "The Riviera"?
In name? No.
In spirit? Partly.
The "Riviera" brand actually moved. There’s a Riviera Hotel in Las Vegas (well, that’s gone too) and other properties using the name. But for Palm Springs, the era of the Riviera officially ended in 2020 when the Margaritaville transition happened.
It was a sign of the times. The desert is changing. It’s becoming more accessible, more "brand-heavy," and a bit more commercial.
Navigating Your Visit
If you’re planning a trip, here are a few things to keep in mind that the travel brochures won't tell you.
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First, the wind. The north end of Palm Springs is notoriously windy. Because the resort is right near the mouth of the San Gorgonio Pass, you can get some serious gusts. This is why the pool areas are somewhat sunken and protected by the hotel wings.
Second, the "Resort Fee." Just like every other major spot in the desert, they’re going to hit you with it. It covers the Wi-Fi, the fitness center, and the bike rentals. Use the bikes. Riding through the Old Las Palmas neighborhood nearby is the best way to see the celebrity homes without looking like a total tourist.
Third, the events. This property has a massive convention space. If you show up during a major corporate retreat or a fitness competition, the vibe changes instantly. Check the calendar before you book.
What Most People Miss
People forget that the Riviera was a hub during the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival's early days. Long before the "influencer" era, this was where the bands stayed.
There’s a grit under the glamour.
If you go to the back corners of the property, away from the freshly painted lobby, you can see the original stonework. You can see the scale of the old ballrooms where Sonny and Cher used to perform.
Actionable Steps for Your Desert Stay
Stop looking for the "Riviera" on Google Maps. It’s Margaritaville now. Embrace it.
- Book a "Junior Suite." They are usually located in the original wings and offer the most authentic layout of the old resort. You get that sprawling, open-concept feel that made the property famous in 1960.
- Visit the Spa. Even if you aren't staying there, the spa facilities are some of the best-preserved parts of the high-end renovation. The "Watsu" pool is a specific highlight that you won't find at many other desert resorts.
- Explore Uptown. Walk out the front entrance and head south on Indian Canyon. Within three blocks, you’ll hit the heart of the Design District. This is where the real Palm Springs aesthetic lives today.
- Time your pool day. The main pool gets loud. If you want the "Old Hollywood" quiet, look for the smaller, secondary pools tucked between the room wings. They are usually much more peaceful and offer a better view of the mountain shadows at sunset.
- Check the history. Before you go, look up old photos of the "Riviera Resort and Spa Palm Springs" from the 1970s. Comparing those images to what you see in the lobby today is a fascinating lesson in how American luxury has evolved over 60 years.
The transition from the Riviera to Margaritaville is basically the story of Palm Springs itself. It’s a shift from exclusive, mid-century elite to inclusive, modern-day fun. You might miss the velvet, but the sun still shines the same way on the pool deck.
Go for the history, stay for the drink, and don't forget your sunscreen. The desert doesn't care what the sign on the door says; it’s still the most iconic corner of the Coachella Valley.