Walk down Wilshire Boulevard at sunset and you’ll see it. The light hits the turquoise terra cotta of the Eastern Columbia Building, and for a second, you aren’t in a sprawling, traffic-choked megacity. You’re in a dream of the future dreamt a hundred years ago. Los Angeles Art Deco isn't just a collection of old buildings; it's the physical manifestation of a time when LA decided to stop being a dusty agricultural outpost and start being the center of the world.
People often think Art Deco is just about "The Great Gatsby" or New York’s Chrysler Building. Honestly, they’re wrong. While New York went for height and steel, LA went for color, drama, and a weird mix of ancient history and space-age optimism. It’s a style that feels right at home next to a palm tree.
The Boom That Built the Skyline
In the 1920s, Los Angeles was exploding. Oil was gushing out of the ground in Long Beach and Signal Hill. The film industry was moving from a niche hobby to a global powerhouse. Basically, everyone had money, and they wanted the world to know it. This was the era of the "Zigzag Moderne," characterized by those sharp, geometric patterns that look like they were pulled off an Egyptian tomb or a Mayan temple.
Why the obsession with the past?
In 1922, Howard Carter cracked open King Tut’s tomb. The world went absolutely nuts. That "Egyptomania" filtered directly into the architecture of Los Angeles. Look at the Grauman’s Egyptian Theatre on Hollywood Boulevard. It’s not just a movie house; it’s a fantasy. Architects like Meyer & Holler weren't trying to be subtle. They wanted to transport you.
Not All Deco is Created Equal
When you’re walking around, you’ll notice two main "vibes." You’ve got your Zigzag Moderne, which is all about the jagged lines and the glitz. This is the 1920s in a nutshell. Then, as the Great Depression hit in the 30s, things got a bit more... aerodynamic. This is what we call Streamline Moderne.
Think of the Bullocks Wilshire building. Completed in 1929, right as the market crashed, it’s a masterpiece by John and Donald Parkinson. It’s got that iconic green copper tower that was actually designed to be a beacon for early aviators. Inside, the department store was the height of luxury, featuring a "motor court" because, even then, LA was obsessed with cars.
On the other hand, Streamline Moderne looks like a ship or a plane. Smooth curves. Horizontal lines. Glass block windows. The Coca-Cola Building on Central Avenue is a perfect example—it literally looks like an ocean liner parked in the middle of a warehouse district. It’s weird. It’s bold. It’s very LA.
The Architect You Need to Know: Claud Beelman
If you want to talk about the DNA of this city, you have to talk about Claud Beelman. He’s the guy behind the Eastern Columbia. You know the one—the bright teal building with the giant clock tower in the Fashion District. It’s probably the most photographed Art Deco structure in the city. Beelman used "Sunburst" motifs and gold leaf like he had an infinite supply.
But it wasn't just about being pretty. These buildings were feats of engineering. They used reinforced concrete and terra cotta to survive the literal shaky ground of California. The Eastern Columbia survived decades of neglect before being converted into lofts, proving that good design is basically indestructible if you give it half a chance.
Why We Almost Lost It All
It’s easy to love these buildings now, but in the 1970s, Los Angeles was busy tearing its history down. Modernism was in. Concrete boxes were the future. People thought Art Deco was gaudy and outdated.
💡 You might also like: Why April 1st pranks still work even when we know they are coming
The Los Angeles Conservancy was actually born out of a fight to save a building. In 1978, the Los Angeles Public Library (a stunning mix of Egyptian and Mediterranean styles) was threatened with demolition. A group of citizens stepped up and said, "No." That movement saved the library and eventually helped protect jewels like the Wiltern Theatre.
The Wiltern is a miracle. It’s located at the corner of Wilshire and Western—hence the name. It’s clad in "Pellegrini" green terra cotta. Inside, the ceiling is a sunburst that makes your neck ache because you can’t stop staring up. It was almost a parking lot. Let that sink in.
Living With Art Deco Today
You can’t talk about Los Angeles Art Deco without mentioning the lifestyle it created. These buildings weren't just offices; they were experiences.
- The Oviatt Building: James Oviatt brought back thousands of pounds of Lalique glass from France to deck out his haberdashery and penthouse. You can still see the glass in the lobby of what is now Cicada Restaurant.
- The Sunset Tower: This was the spot for celebrities. Bugsy Siegel, Dorothy Dandridge, and Frank Sinatra all lived here. It represents the "Hollywood Regency" side of Deco—high glamour, heavy drapes, and a lot of secrets.
- Union Station: While technically "Mission Moderne," it’s the last of the great railway stations. It mixes Art Deco geometry with Spanish Colonial arches. It’s the gateway to the city and a reminder that LA is a blend of cultures.
The reality of preserving these spaces is complicated. It’s expensive. Terra cotta cracks. Neon tubing is a dying art. But developers have realized that "cool" sells. Converting these old office towers into "creative lofts" has saved more buildings in the last twenty years than legislation ever did. It’s a bit ironic—the buildings built by 1920s capitalists are being saved by 2020s capitalists.
Identifying the Real Deal
How do you know if you're looking at a real Art Deco gem or a cheap 80s imitation? Look for the materials.
💡 You might also like: Draught Horse Brewery & Spirits: Why This Lyon Township Spot Actually Works
Genuine Deco uses high-quality stuff. Terra cotta (baked clay). Bronze. Marble. Chrome. The patterns are usually symmetrical. You’ll see "Chevrons" (V-shapes), "Ziggurats" (stepped pyramids), and stylized floral patterns. If it looks like it belongs on the set of a silent film, you’re probably on the right track.
Also, look at the windows. Art Deco buildings often have "ribbon windows" that wrap around corners, or vertical bands of windows that make the building look taller than it actually is. It’s all about the illusion of speed and height.
The Cultural Impact
The influence of this style stretches far beyond architecture. It’s in the fonts on old menus, the curves of a 1937 Cord automobile, and the costume design of classic noir films. Los Angeles Art Deco provided the backdrop for the "noir" aesthetic. Think of Raymond Chandler’s Philip Marlowe wandering through the shadows of a sun-drenched, corrupt city. That contrast—bright, shiny buildings hiding dark, gritty secrets—is the essence of LA.
Even today, filmmakers use these locations to evoke a specific mood. The Bradbury Building (more Victorian, but with some proto-Deco elements) was the star of Blade Runner. The Union Station has been in everything from The Dark Knight Rises to La La Land. The city uses its past to sell its future.
How to Do an Art Deco Saturday
If you actually want to see this stuff, don't just drive by. You have to get out of the car.
Start downtown. Grab a coffee and look up at the Title Guarantee Building next to Pershing Square. Walk over to the Central Library and check out the "Torch of Learning" on the pyramid roof.
Head west on Wilshire. This was known as the "Miracle Mile" because it was the first shopping district designed specifically for car culture. You’ll see the Desmond’s building and the El Rey Theatre.
👉 See also: Toscano Italian & Mediterranean Deli Clarks Summit Menu: What You Should Actually Order
Finish your day at the Griffith Observatory. It opened in 1935. It’s pure WPA-era Deco. The murals by Hugo Ballin on the ceiling of the rotunda show the progress of science. Standing there, looking out over the lights of the city, you realize that Art Deco wasn't just a trend. It was an ambitious promise that Los Angeles was going to be something spectacular.
Actionable Insights for the Aspiring Urban Explorer
If you're ready to dive deeper into the architectural history of the city, start with these specific steps:
- Join a Walking Tour: The Los Angeles Conservancy runs the best tours in the city. Their "Art Deco" tour of Downtown LA is essential. It’s cheap, and the docents know where the secret lobbies are.
- Visit the Art Deco Society of Los Angeles: They host events like the "Avalon Ball" on Catalina Island, where everyone dresses in period attire. It’s a great way to see the lifestyle side of the movement.
- Check the "Hertzberg" Collection: If you're a real nerd for this, look into the archives at the Getty Research Institute. They have original blueprints and photographs from the era.
- Support Local Preservation: Many of these buildings are still at risk. Keep an eye on the "Edison Building" or smaller residential Deco apartments in Koreatown and West Hollywood.
- Look Down: Sometimes the best Deco is under your feet. Many old storefronts in the Broadway Theater District still have their original terrazzo entryways with intricate geometric patterns.
Los Angeles is a city that is constantly reinventing itself. It tears things down and builds over them without much thought. But these Art Deco monuments have managed to stick around. They remind us that even in a city built on make-believe, some things are built to last. They are the anchors of our history, and honestly, the city would be a lot more boring without them.