If you’ve ever driven Highway 20 through the North Cascades, you’ve seen it. You probably pulled over at the Washington Pass overlook, grabbed your phone, and took a photo of that jagged, toothy spire of orange granite piercing the sky. That’s Liberty Bell Mountain. It’s not the tallest peak in Washington—not even close—but it’s arguably the most iconic piece of rock in the state.
Washington climbing is usually synonymous with "suffering." You think of the Cascades and you think of bushwhacking through devil’s club, crossing sketchy glaciers, and dealing with crumbling "choss" that breaks off in your hands. Liberty Bell Mountain Washington is the total opposite of that. It’s solid. It’s clean. Most importantly, it’s accessible. You can be at the base of some of the best alpine climbing in North America in about an hour from your car.
But there’s a lot people get wrong about this peak. It’s not just one mountain; it’s the anchor of a group called the Liberty Bell Group, which includes Concord Tower, Lexington Tower, North Early Winters Spire, and South Early Winters Spire. Each one has its own personality. Honestly, if you’re just looking at the main peak, you’re missing half the story.
The Beckey Route and the Myth of the "Easy" Climb
Every climber in the Pacific Northwest knows the name Fred Beckey. He was the dirtbag king of American mountaineering, and in 1946, he and his crew (Edmund Senn and Charles Welsh) notched the first ascent of the Liberty Bell via what is now called the Beckey Route. It’s rated a 5.6. In the world of modern climbing, 5.6 is supposed to be "easy."
It’s not.
Well, it is if you’re a pro, but for a novice, the Beckey Route is a wake-up call. It’s got "The Chimney." It’s got "The Friction Slab." These aren't just names; they are physical puzzles that require you to smear your feet against smooth rock with thousands of feet of air below your heels. People underestimate Liberty Bell Mountain Washington because the approach is short. They show up unprepared for the high-altitude weather shifts. I’ve seen people starting the route in t-shirts only to be pelted by a sudden hailstorm twenty minutes later. The North Cascades create their own weather systems. You have to respect that.
The rock here is Golden Horn Granodiorite. It’s beautiful. It’s grippy. Unlike the volcanic junk you find on Mount Rainier or the crumbly mess of the Monte Cristo range, the granite on Liberty Bell feels like it was designed by a climber. It’s got cracks that actually hold gear and edges that don't just snap off when you put weight on them.
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Geology That Doesn't Make Sense
How did a giant chunk of desert-looking granite end up in the middle of a snowy, evergreen mountain range? Basically, it’s an intrusion. Millions of years ago, molten rock pushed its way up through the earth’s crust but didn't quite break the surface. It cooled slowly underground, which is why the crystals are so large and the rock is so freaking solid. Eventually, the softer rock on top eroded away, and then the glaciers moved in.
Glaciers are the sculptors of the North Cascades. They carved out the U-shaped valleys and left behind these vertical towers. If you look at the west face of Liberty Bell, it’s a sheer, terrifying drop. That’s glacial carving at its most aggressive.
One thing people often overlook is the "Blue Lake Rhulite" nearby. Most folks just stick to the granite, but the whole area around Washington Pass is a geological goldmine. You’ve got different eras of earth’s history stacked on top of each other like a messy pancake breakfast.
Why the Early Winters Spires Actually Win
If you’re visiting Liberty Bell Mountain Washington for the first time, you’ll probably hear locals talking about "The Spires." Specifically, South Early Winters Spire.
While the main Liberty Bell peak gets all the postcards, the South Early Winters Spire (SEWS) has the "Direct South Arete." If you ask any seasoned climber in the Methow Valley, they’ll tell you that’s the real crown jewel. It’s a 5.8 trad line that follows a sharp ridge directly into the sky. It’s exposed. It’s windy. It makes you feel like you’re standing on the edge of the world.
- The approach starts at the Blue Lake Trailhead.
- You hike through sub-alpine meadows filled with larch trees.
- In October, these larches turn brilliant gold. It’s distracting. You’ll want to stop and take photos every five feet, but don’t. You need to beat the crowds to the base of the route.
- The descent usually involves a series of rappels or a scramble down the "Gully of Doom." It’s not as scary as it sounds, but it’s definitely not a walk in the park.
People get obsessed with the summit of Liberty Bell, but the entire group offers a variety that is rare in the Cascades. Concord Tower is short and sweet. Lexington Tower has the "Toothpick," which is exactly what it sounds like. It’s a skinny needle of rock that looks like it should fall over in a stiff breeze. It hasn't yet.
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The Hidden Season: Larches and Late Starts
Most people think of Liberty Bell as a summer destination. July and August are the peak months. The snow is mostly gone from the gullies, and the days are long. But there is a secret window in late September and early October.
This is "Larch March."
The Subalpine Larch is a weird tree. It looks like a normal evergreen, but it’s deciduous. Its needles turn bright yellow and then fall off. When the larches turn, the base of Liberty Bell Mountain Washington looks like it’s on fire. The contrast between the golden trees, the orange granite, and the first dusting of white snow on the peaks is almost too much to take in.
The downside? It’s freezing. You’re climbing in a puffer jacket. Your fingers go numb. But the photos? Incredible. Just keep in mind that Highway 20, the North Cascades Highway, closes every winter. Once the snow gets too deep for the plows to handle, the Department of Transportation shuts the gates. Usually, this happens in November. After that, Liberty Bell becomes a wilderness of ice and silence, accessible only to those willing to ski in for miles.
Essential Gear and Real-World Advice
Don’t be the person who gets rescued because they thought "short approach" meant "easy day."
First, water. There isn't much on the rock. The hike up to the base is steep—you’re gaining a couple thousand feet in a very short distance. You’ll sweat. Bring more water than you think you need.
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Second, the "marmots." The marmots at the base of Liberty Bell are professional thieves. They have evolved to recognize backpacks. If you leave your pack at the start of a climb, they will chew through the straps and the fabric to get to your granola bars. They don't care about you. They want your snacks. Hang your pack or use a "Marmot-proof" bag if you're leaving gear behind.
Third, descent knowledge. Many accidents on Liberty Bell Mountain Washington happen during the descent. The rappels are busy. People get their ropes stuck. They try to shortcut through gullies that end in cliffs. Study the topo maps. Talk to people at the North Cascades Mountain Guides office in Mazama before you go. They’re locals. They know if a specific anchor is sketchy or if a certain gully is still filled with ice.
Protecting the Alpine Environment
Because it’s so popular, the area around Liberty Bell is fragile. The "cryptobiotic soil"—that dark, crusty stuff on the ground—is alive. When you step on it, you kill it. It takes decades to grow back.
Stay on the established trails. I know the meadows look tempting to wander through, but please, stick to the dirt. The Forest Service works hard to maintain the Blue Lake and Washington Pass areas. We’ve already lost some of the pristine feel of the area due to the massive influx of "Instagram hikers" who don't know about Leave No Trace principles. Don't be that person. Pack out your trash. Every bit of it. Even the orange peels. Especially the orange peels.
Actionable Steps for Your Liberty Bell Adventure
If you’re serious about experiencing Liberty Bell Mountain, don't just wing it.
- Check the WSDOT website for Highway 20 status. If the road is closed, your trip is over before it starts.
- Stop in Winthrop or Mazama. Grab a pastry at the Mazama Store (the salt baguettes are legendary) and check the local weather board. The weather at the pass is often 10-15 degrees colder than in the valley.
- If you aren't an experienced trad climber, hire a guide. There are several reputable services in the Methow Valley that take people up the Beckey Route every day. It’s worth the money to not end up as a search and rescue headline.
- Prepare for the "Alpine Start." Even though the hike is short, the lines for the popular routes can be five groups deep by 9:00 AM. If you aren't at the trailhead by sunrise, you're going to be waiting in the sun (or rain) for hours.
- Bring a helmet. Even if you aren't climbing. The gullies are notorious for rockfall, often kicked down by other hikers or mountain goats. A small stone falling 200 feet can be lethal.
Liberty Bell isn't just a mountain; it's a rite of passage. Whether you're standing on the summit looking out at the sea of peaks in the North Cascades National Park or just staring up at it from the overlook, it stays with you. It’s a reminder of how massive and rugged Washington really is.