Bolgheri is a place of giants. When people talk about this sliver of the Tuscan coast, they usually start and end with the "Big Three"—Sassicaia, Masseto, and Ornellaia. But honestly? Dropping $400 or $500 on a single bottle of the flagship grand vin isn’t exactly a Tuesday night move for most of us. That is why Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia 2021 is currently the most interesting conversation in Italian wine.
It’s the "second wine." But calling it that feels like a massive undersell. In the 2021 vintage, this bottle isn't just a runner-up; it is a masterclass in what happens when a perfect growing season meets one of the world's most obsessed-over winemaking teams. If you’ve ever felt like the prestige of Super Tuscans was mostly marketing fluff, this specific year might change your mind.
The 2021 Vintage: What Actually Happened in the Vineyard?
Winemakers are notorious for saying every year is "great." They have to sell wine, after all. But 2021 in Bolgheri was objectively weird, then suddenly perfect.
The year started with a cold snap. We had a rainy spring that gave the vines plenty of water, which turned out to be a lifesaver because the summer was bone-dry. From July through the end of August, the rain basically vanished. In many regions, this leads to "stressed" vines where the grapes stop ripening and just get raisiny. Not here. The maritime influence of the Tyrrhenian Sea kept things cool enough at night.
Olga Fusari, the longtime winemaker at Ornellaia (who has since moved on to new projects, making this one of her final stamps on the estate), noted that the 2021 fruit had incredible aromatic intensity. The berries were small. Small berries mean a high skin-to-juice ratio. That’s a fancy way of saying the wine has massive color and serious tannins, but without the "cooked" fruit flavors you get in heatwave years like 2017.
Does the Blend Really Matter?
The composition of Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia 2021 leans heavily on Merlot, as it usually does. It’s roughly 50% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest is split between Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
Why should you care?
Merlot in Bolgheri isn't the soft, flabby stuff people used to make fun of in the 90s. It’s powerful. It provides the "flesh" of the wine. The Cabernet Sauvignon acts like the skeleton—it gives the wine its structure and ability to age. Then you have the Petit Verdot, which is basically the spice cabinet. It adds that dark, purplish color and a hit of black pepper.
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If you taste this against a 2020 or a 2019, you’ll notice the 2021 feels... tighter. It’s more precise. Some critics, like Antonio Galloni from Vinous, have pointed out that 2021 is a "classic" vintage. It’s not trying too hard to be big and loud. It’s just elegant.
Tasting Notes: Beyond the Marketing Speak
Let’s be real: most tasting notes sound like someone eating a fruit basket in a cigar lounge. Let’s skip the fluff.
When you pull the cork on Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia 2021, the first thing you notice isn't fruit. It’s cedar. And maybe a bit of crushed rock. It smells expensive. Once it opens up—and you must give this thing an hour in a decanter—you get the blackberries and the black cherries. But there’s also this savory vibe. Think dried herbs, rosemary, and a bit of balsamic.
The mouthfeel is where the 2021 really wins. It’s velvety. Not "smooth" like a cheap grocery store red, but velvety like high-end fabric. It has grip. Your teeth will feel the tannins, but they aren't aggressive or "green." They are ripe. It finishes with a salty kick, which is a hallmark of Bolgheri’s proximity to the ocean.
The "Second Wine" Misconception
Most people think a second wine is made from the leftovers. Like the scraps of dough after you’ve cut out the cookies.
That’s not how Ornellaia works.
The fruit for Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia 2021 comes from specific younger vineyards. These vines are roughly 15 years old. They aren't "bad" vines; they just haven't developed the deep, complex root systems required for the flagship wine. By separating this fruit, the estate can create a wine that is drinkable much earlier. If you open a 2021 Ornellaia (the flagship) today, you’re basically committing infanticide. It’s too tight, too woody, too much.
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But the Le Serre Nuove? It’s ready to play. You can drink it now with a steak, or you can tuck it away for ten years. It’s the sweet spot of the portfolio.
Why the 2021 is Actually a Bargain (Sorta)
"Bargain" is a relative term when a bottle costs $70 to $90.
But look at the landscape. Napa Valley Cabernet of this quality is pushing $150. Bordeaux is getting more expensive every year. For under $100, you are getting the exact same winemaking team, the exact same French oak barrels, and the exact same sorting technology (they use optical sorters that reject any grape that isn't perfect) as the $500 flagship.
It is essentially a shortcut to the elite tier of Italian viticulture without the three-figure entry fee.
Practical Advice for Your Collection
If you're thinking about picking up a few bottles, here is how to handle the Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia 2021 to get your money's worth:
Don't drink it at room temperature. Most people drink red wine too warm. In a house at 72°F (22°C), the alcohol in this wine will start to taste "hot" and overwhelm the delicate herbal notes. Pop it in the fridge for 20 minutes before you open it. You want it at about 62°F (17°C). It makes a world of difference.
The Glassware Check
You don't need $100 hand-blown stems, but don't drink this out of a tiny juice glass. It needs air. Use a wide-bottomed Bordeaux glass. If you don't have one, a large Burgundy balloon glass works in a pinch, though it might emphasize the fruit over the structure.
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Cellaring Potential
If you have a wine fridge, buy a case. Drink one now to see what the hype is about. Then, try to forget the rest exist for three years. By 2028, the Cabernet components will have integrated more fully with the Merlot, and you'll get more of those "forest floor" and tobacco flavors that make aged Italian wine so addictive.
Food Pairings That Actually Work
Keep it simple. You don't need a 12-course tasting menu.
- Wild Boar Ragu: The classic Tuscan choice. The gamey meat stands up to the tannins.
- Ribeye with Chimichurri: The acidity in the herbs cuts through the richness of the Merlot.
- Aged Pecorino: If you just want a snack, get a hard, salty cheese. The salt makes the fruit in the wine pop.
The Reality Check
Is there a downside? Sure. 2021 was a low-yielding vintage. There isn't as much of this wine floating around as there was in 2018 or 2019. Prices are already creeping up as the scores from critics like James Suckling (who gave it a 95) and Monica Larner for The Wine Advocate (94 points) hit the newsletters.
Also, if you hate oak, this might not be your jam. It spends 15 months in barriques. While they use a mix of new and old wood, the presence of vanilla and toast is definitely there. It’s a modern, polished wine. It isn't a "funky" natural wine that tastes like kombucha. It is clean, precise, and professional.
How to Verify What You’re Buying
Counterfeit wine is mostly a problem for the $1,000+ bottles, but it never hurts to be safe. Every bottle of Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia 2021 comes with a "Vele" (Sail) authentication tag on the neck. It uses a unique bubble-code system that you can check on the Ornellaia website. If the seal is broken or missing, skip it.
Actionable Steps for Enthusiasts
If you want to experience this wine at its peak, follow this sequence:
- Secure the bottle soon: The 2021 vintage is currently transitioning from "new release" to "hard to find" as the 2022s start to be announced. Check online aggregators like Wine-Searcher to find the best local price.
- Verify the storage: Only buy from retailers who keep their high-end reds in a temperature-controlled environment. Avoid bottles that have been sitting on a top shelf under hot fluorescent lights for six months.
- The 2-Hour Rule: If drinking today, decant for exactly two hours. It sounds precise, but the change between hour one and hour two is where the "cedar and pencil lead" aromas really bloom.
- Compare and Contrast: If you really want to learn about Bolgheri, buy a bottle of Le Difese (the third wine of Sassicaia) and taste it alongside the Le Serre Nuove. You’ll see the difference between the Cabernet-heavy style of Sassicaia’s lineage and the Merlot-driven lushness of Ornellaia’s.
The 2021 vintage is a snapshot of a year where the weather behaved just enough to let the terroir do the talking. It’s a bottle that justifies its price tag, which, in the world of luxury wine, is a rare thing to find.