It was 1974 when a silver cart first rolled across the floors of the historic McCormick Mansion at 100 East Ontario Street. For nearly half a century, that address was a temple for beef lovers. If you grew up in the city or visited for the holidays, Lawry's Prime Rib Chicago IL wasn't just a restaurant; it was a ritual.
The spinning salad. The white-gloved carvers. The heavy, mahogany-scented air of a room that felt like it existed outside of time.
Then, the world changed.
On December 31, 2020, the lights went dark. A 46-year run ended not because people stopped loving the food, but because of a brutal "confluence of events," as CEO Ryan Wilson put it. An expiring lease, the crushing weight of the pandemic, and local unrest created a storm that even the most iconic steakhouse couldn't weather.
Honestly, Chicago feels a little emptier without it.
The $40,000 Silver Cart and Other Legends
You can't talk about Lawry’s without mentioning the carts. These aren't just trolleys. They are 900-pound stainless steel marvels designed by Lawrence Frank himself back in 1938. In the Chicago location, these gleaming domes were the stars of the show.
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They cost about $40,000 each.
When a carver wheeled one to your table, it was theater. You weren't just ordering dinner; you were witnessing a craft. To even touch those knives, carvers had to join the Royal Order of Carvers, a certification that required months of training.
They’d slice the "Lawry Cut" or the massive, bone-in "Diamond Jim Brady" with a precision that’s hard to find in the era of fast-casual dining.
That Famous Spinning Salad
Before the beef, there was the salad. It’s kinda legendary. The server would place a large metal bowl over a bed of ice and spin it rapidly while pouring the vintage dressing from high above.
Why? It ensured every single leaf of romaine, beet, and chopped egg was perfectly coated. It was flashy, sure, but it actually worked. People still try to recreate that dressing at home, but without the "spinning bowl" theatrics and the chilled fork, it’s never quite the same.
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Why the Ontario Street Location Was Special
Most people don't realize that the Chicago Lawry's was only the second location ever opened in the empire. While Beverly Hills was the flagship, Chicago was the heart of the Midwest expansion.
The building itself—the L. Hamilton McCormick Mansion—added a layer of "Old Chicago" gravitas.
Walking into that space felt like stepping into a private club. It had those high ceilings and the "brown gown" servers whose uniforms were a nod to the historic Harvey House waitresses of the 1800s. It was a place where generations of families celebrated graduations and golden anniversaries.
What Really Happened in 2020
It’s easy to blame one thing, but the reality of the closure was more complex.
- The Lease: The 46-year lease was ending. In the world of commercial real estate, that’s a dangerous moment for any business, especially one occupying a massive, historic footprint in River North.
- The Pandemic: COVID-19 gutted the dining industry. For a place built on "experience" and tableside service, takeout boxes just didn't cut it.
- The Turmoil: 2020 was a year of significant social unrest in downtown Chicago. Wilson noted that the safety of his "co-workers" (the term the company has used since 1939 instead of "employees") was a major factor in the decision to pause.
When the news broke in September 2020, the reaction was immediate. People scrambled to get one last reservation. They wanted one more Yorkshire pudding. One more dollop of whipped cream horseradish.
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Can You Still Get Your Lawry's Fix?
If you're craving that specific flavor profile in 2026, you aren't totally out of luck.
While the physical doors at 100 E. Ontario remain closed, the brand hasn't vanished. They launched Lawry's At Home, which ships frozen prime rib feasts nationwide. It’s a decent substitute, though you have to provide your own silver cart and spinning bowl.
Also, Lawry’s Seasoned Salt is still a staple in almost every grocery store in the city. Fun fact: that salt was actually developed at the Tam O'Shanter Inn (a sister restaurant) before Lawry’s even existed.
Is a Comeback Possible?
Ryan Wilson has teased the idea of returning to Chicago in the future. He’s called it the "best food city in the country." But if it does return, it likely won't be in that same mansion. It might be a smaller, more modern iteration.
Until then, the memories of the Master Carvers and the smell of slow-roasted rib of beef remain a part of Chicago’s culinary ghost lore.
Actionable Steps for the Displaced Lawry's Fan
If you're missing the Lawry's experience, here is how to navigate the current landscape:
- Visit the Remaining Icons: If you’re traveling, the locations in Beverly Hills, Las Vegas, and Dallas are still very much alive and well.
- The "At Home" Kit: Order the "Prime Rib Feast" through their official website. It includes the beef, the creamed corn, and the sourdough.
- DIY Spinning Salad: You can buy the Lawry's Vintage Dressing online. To get the texture right, use a stainless steel bowl, place it in a larger bowl filled with crushed ice, and use a high-pour technique to aerate the dressing as it hits the greens.
- The Seasoned Salt Hack: For the most authentic home roast, coat your prime rib in a thick layer of Lawry's Seasoned Salt and rock salt before slow-roasting at a low temperature (around 250°F) until it reaches an internal temp of 120°F for rare.
The era of the $40,000 cart on Ontario Street may be over, but the standard it set for Chicago hospitality still influences the city's steakhouse culture today.