Phoenix is hot. That’s not a secret. But usually, when people talk about the heat in Arizona, they’re complaining about the asphalt-melting sun. Recently, though, the conversation has shifted. People are talking about a different kind of heat—the kind that comes off a wood-fired grill in a historic house on Portland Street. That’s where you’ll find Latha African Style BBQ, and honestly, it’s not just a restaurant. It’s a whole mood that’s been missing from the Valley for way too long.
Latha. It means "flavor" in Swahili.
The name isn't just marketing fluff. When Chef Michael "Mojo" Johnson and the team behind the Heritage Square concept decided to open this spot, they weren't just looking to sell ribs. They were aiming to map out the entire African diaspora through spice, smoke, and hospitality. If you walk in expecting a standard American rib shack with plastic checkered tablecloths, you’re in for a shock. This is sophisticated. It’s soulful. It’s basically a culinary bridge between the African continent, the Caribbean, Brazil, and the American South.
The Geography of Smoke
Most people hear "BBQ" and think Texas brisket or Memphis dry rubs. That’s a narrow way to see the world. At Latha African Style BBQ, the flavor profile is rooted in the "spice road." We’re talking about the deep, complex heat of North African harissa, the nutty richness of West African peanut stews (maafe), and the vibrant, herbaceous notes of South African braai.
Barbecue is universal, yet deeply specific.
In the United States, we often forget that the foundational techniques of "low and slow" cooking were heavily influenced by enslaved Africans who brought sophisticated preservation and seasoning methods to the Americas. Latha isn't just serving food; it's reclaiming a narrative. When you bite into their jerk chicken or their peri-peri shrimp, you aren't just eating protein. You're tasting a history that spans oceans.
The menu is structured in a way that feels like a journey. You start with "Foundations"—think things like cornbread, but elevated with unique flours and spices. Then you move into the "Vessels," which are essentially the proteins that have been kissed by flame.
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Why the Wood-Fired Aspect Actually Matters
It’s easy to get cynical about "wood-fired" anything these days. Every pizza joint in the suburbs claims to use a wood oven. But at Latha, the smoke is an ingredient, not just a heat source. They use a mix of hardwoods that provides a clean, nuanced smoke profile that doesn't overpower the delicate spices.
Take the Suya-style skewers. Suya is a Nigerian street food staple. It’s traditionally made with beef, coated in a spicy, nutty mixture called yaji (which usually contains ground peanuts, ginger, bouillon, and various peppers). If you use a heavy hickory smoke, you lose the ginger. If you use a weak gas flame, you lose the crust. The balance at Latha is genuinely impressive because you can taste the individual components of the yaji through the char. It’s a technical flex that looks effortless.
Beyond the Plate: The Vibe at Latha
Let’s be real: Phoenix has a lot of strip mall gems. I love a good hole-in-the-wall as much as anyone, but there’s something special about Latha’s physical space. It’s located in the Silva House, a 19th-century bungalow that feels cozy but intentionally designed.
The lighting is dim. The art on the walls is curated. The music—usually a mix of Afrobeats, jazz, and soulful house—sets a tempo that makes you want to linger.
It feels like a dinner party at a friend's house. A friend who happens to be a world-class chef and an expert on African ethno-gastronomy.
The bar program shouldn't be overlooked either. A lot of BBQ places treat drinks as an afterthought—maybe a cheap lager or a generic sweet tea. Latha does the opposite. Their cocktail list incorporates ingredients like hibiscus, tamarind, and coconut, mirroring the flavors on the food menu. They understand that if you’re eating spicy, fatty, smoked meats, you need acidity and brightness to cut through it.
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What Most People Get Wrong About African BBQ
The biggest misconception? That "African food" is one monolithic thing. Africa is a massive continent with 54 countries and thousands of distinct cultures. You can't summarize it in one dish.
Latha African Style BBQ does a great job of acknowledging this complexity. They don't claim to represent every single village, but they do pay homage to regional heavyweights.
- The Heat Level: People assume everything will be "blow your head off" spicy. It’s not. While there is definitely heat (the piri-piri doesn't play around), most of the dishes are about "warmth" and "depth." It’s the difference between a slap in the face and a long hug.
- The Meat-Centric Myth: Yes, it’s a BBQ joint. But the vegetable dishes at Latha are some of the most flavorful things on the menu. The way they treat grains, legumes, and hearty greens shows a level of respect for plant-based ingredients that is traditional in many African cultures where meat was often a celebratory addition rather than the main event every single day.
- The "Authenticity" Trap: People love to argue about what's "authentic." Is it authentic if it’s served in Phoenix? If it’s cooked by a chef who grew up in the US? Authenticity is a moving target. Latha focuses on integrity. They use the right spices, the right techniques, and the right stories. That’s more important than fitting into a narrow definition of what a dish "should" be.
Navigating the Menu: A Practical Strategy
If you're heading to Latha for the first time, don't just order the first thing you see. This is a "family style" environment. Even if you aren't sharing, order like you are.
Start with the Dibi. It's a Senegalese-inspired grilled lamb dish. It’s typically served with mustard-marinated onions that provide this incredible sharp contrast to the rich, fatty lamb. It’s one of those dishes that makes you close your eyes for a second.
Then, look at the sides. The Jollof rice is a point of pride. For the uninitiated, Jollof rice is the subject of intense, friendly "wars" between West African nations—everyone claims their version is the best. Latha’s version is smoky, savory, and has that perfect texture where every grain is distinct.
Don't skip the greens. They aren't just boiled to death. They have texture, smoke, and a hit of vinegar or citrus that makes them feel vibrant.
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The Business of Culture
Latha is part of a larger movement in the Phoenix food scene. For years, the city's culinary reputation was built on high-end Mexican food and "New American" bistros. While those are great, the lack of representation for the African diaspora was a glaring hole.
The success of Latha proves there is a massive hunger—literally and figuratively—for these flavors. It’s a business model built on education through deliciousness. They aren't lecturing you on the history of the trans-Atlantic trade; they’re letting the charred octopus and the spiced goat shoulder do the talking.
It’s also worth noting the timing. In a post-2020 world, diners are looking for more than just calories. They want a connection. They want to know the "why" behind the restaurant. By centering the African experience, Latha creates a space that feels intentional. It’s not just another "concept" dreamed up in a corporate boardroom to fill a gap in the market. It feels personal.
Common Questions and Things to Know
If you're planning a visit, keep a few things in mind.
First, reservations are basically a must on weekends. The space is intimate, and it fills up fast. If you show up on a Friday night at 7 PM without a plan, you’re probably going to be waiting at the bar—which isn't the worst thing, but it’s something to be aware of.
Second, the menu changes. Seasonality matters here. While the core "hits" usually stay, don't be surprised if you see different preparations of vegetables or different cuts of meat depending on what's fresh. This is a good thing. It means the kitchen is actually cooking, not just reheating a static menu.
Third, bring people who like to talk. This isn't a "fast casual" spot. The food takes time because it’s being finished over live fire. Use that time to actually talk to the people you’re with.
Actionable Steps for the Ultimate Latha Experience
- Go Early for the Bar: The cocktail program is genuinely sophisticated. Arrive 20 minutes before your reservation and try something with tamarind. It opens up your palate for the smoke to come.
- Order the "Small Plates" as Entrees: Sometimes the best way to experience Latha is to ignore the large plates and just order 4 or 5 small dishes. This gives you a wider map of the flavors they’re playing with.
- Ask the Staff: The servers at Latha usually know the stories behind the dishes. Ask about the origin of the spices or the inspiration for the day's specials. It adds a layer of depth to the meal that you won't get by just reading the menu.
- Embrace the Heat: Even if you’re "spice-sensitive," try at least one dish that has a kick. The way they balance heat with acidity and fat is masterclass-level, and you’ll miss the full picture if you play it too safe.
- Check Out the Courtyard: If the weather is even remotely decent, try to get a seat outside. There’s something about eating grilled meat under the Arizona sky that just feels right, especially given the "braai" (South African BBQ) influence where outdoor cooking is a way of life.
Latha African Style BBQ is more than a place to grab dinner. It’s a sensory experience that challenges what "barbecue" means in the American West. It’s bold, it’s vibrant, and quite frankly, it’s exactly what the Phoenix dining scene needed. Whether you're a hardcore foodie or just someone looking for a great meal in a cool house, it’s worth the trip to Portland Street. Just make sure you come hungry and leave your assumptions at the door.