Honestly, walking down the toy aisle today feels like a trip through a neon-colored time machine. Remember 2014? It was the year of the loom band craze. You couldn't go to a park or a school without seeing kids and adults alike with wrists stacked high in rubber. Cheong Choon Ng, the guy who invented the Rainbow Loom, basically captured lightning in a bottle. He saw his daughters trying to make bracelets out of ponytail holders and thought, "I can do better." He did. While the initial "fad" phase passed, knowing how to make a loom band bracelet with loom remains a staple skill for anyone into DIY crafts. It’s meditative. It’s cheap. And frankly, it’s a lot harder to mess up than knitting.
The core of the hobby is simple: small elastic bands, a plastic hook, and a pegboard. But there’s a massive gap between a messy, tangled pile of rubber and a tight, professional-looking fishtail. Most people start with their fingers, but if you want anything more complex than a basic chain, you need the loom. The loom provides the tension. It gives you the structure to layer colors without everything snapping back into your face.
The Basic Physics of the Single Loop
If you're just starting, don't jump into the "Dragon Scale" or "Starburst" patterns immediately. That’s how people end up throwing their looms across the room. You start with the single loop. It’s the foundation.
First, make sure the red arrow on your loom is pointing away from you. This is the "Golden Rule" of Rainbow Looming. If the pegs are facing the wrong way, the bands won't slide off correctly when you start looping. You place your first band from the first center peg to the first left peg. Then, from that left peg back to the second center peg. It creates a zigzag. It looks like a series of "V" shapes.
You keep going until you reach the end. Then, you turn the loom around. Now the arrow is pointing at your chest. This is where the actual "weaving" happens. You use the metal or plastic hook to reach inside the second peg, grab the bottom band, and pull it forward to the next peg. It’s a rhythmic motion. Pull, hook, drop. Pull, hook, drop.
Moving to the Fishtail: How to Make a Loom Band Bracelet With Loom Like a Pro
The Fishtail is where things get interesting. It’s thicker. It’s more durable. It looks like something you’d actually buy at a boutique. Unlike the single loop that zigzags across the loom, the fishtail usually only uses two pegs. You can use any two pegs on the loom, but most people prefer the ones at the very end.
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You start with a "figure eight" or an infinity shape. This cross-over is what locks the base of the bracelet so it doesn't unravel the second you take it off the pegs. On top of that infinity band, you add two more bands—straight across, no crossing. You should have three bands on the pegs.
Here is the secret: you always pull the bottom band over the top. Then you add another band. You always need three bands on the pegs before you loop the bottom one. If you drop down to two, the pattern loses its tension. If you add four, it gets bulky and weird. Stick to three. As you work, the bracelet will start growing downward between the pegs. It’s incredibly satisfying to see that braided texture emerge from a pile of tiny circles.
Why Quality Matters (The Snap Factor)
Not all bands are created equal. This isn't just "brand loyalty" talk. Real Rainbow Loom bands or high-quality silicone alternatives have a specific elasticity. Cheap, knock-off bands often have a "dry" texture. They snap. There is nothing—and I mean nothing—more frustrating than being 40 bands into a complex Hexafish pattern only to have the foundation band snap because the rubber was poor quality.
Silicone bands are generally better for longevity. They don't degrade as fast in sunlight. If you're making something you want to keep for years, or maybe a keychain, go for silicone. They have a higher "sheen" too. Latex bands are stretchier and easier for beginners to hook, but they can get brittle.
Troubleshooting Common Disasters
Sometimes, you get to the end, pull the bracelet off, and the whole thing just... disintegrates. It’s a rite of passage. Usually, this happens because of a missed "cap band" or a loose C-clip.
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The C-clip (or S-clip) is the tiny plastic connector that holds the ends together. When you finish a bracelet on the loom, you usually have two loops left on the final pegs. You need to carefully transfer both loops onto the hook, then slide the clip through both. If you only catch one loop, the other will slide back through the weave, and the bracelet will slowly unspool like a sweater with a loose thread.
Another big mistake is tension. If you pull the bands too tight while hooking, you can actually bend the plastic pegs on cheaper looms. Or worse, the band snaps mid-hook. If a band feels like it’s under too much pressure, use your finger to wiggle the loops down the peg. Give it some breathing room.
Modern Variations and the 2026 Resurgence
We’re seeing a weirdly specific comeback of these bracelets in the "Kidcore" aesthetic and among festival-goers. It’s not just for 10-year-olds anymore. People are using the loom to create "charms"—tiny 3D pineapples, owls, or even action figures.
The loom acts as a jig. By doubling up bands (using two at a time instead of one), you create a much stiffer, more "fabric-like" material. This is how you move from jewelry into actual structural art. Some creators on platforms like TikTok have even started "weaving" loom bands into their hair or using them to create custom watch straps.
Advanced Gear: Metal vs. Plastic Hooks
If you find yourself making more than one bracelet a week, throw away the plastic hook that came in the starter kit. Seriously. Buy a metal-tipped hook. The plastic ones flex too much when you're trying to grab a band at the bottom of a crowded peg. A metal hook is precise. It doesn't bend. It makes the process about 30% faster because you aren't fighting the tool.
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Your Next Steps to Loom Mastery
Don't just read about it. The muscle memory is the most important part of learning how to make a loom band bracelet with loom.
Grab a basic starter kit—the official Rainbow Loom is still the gold standard for peg sturdiness—and sit down with a handful of two contrasting colors. Using contrasting colors (like black and white) helps you see exactly where the hook needs to go. It makes the "path" of the rubber visible.
Start with a single chain to get the feel of the hook's "lip." Once you can do that without looking at your hands, move to the fishtail. From there, look up the "Inverted Fishtail." It’s a slight variation where you pull the middle band down and grab the bottom one through the center. It sounds complicated, but it produces a gorgeous, recessed pattern that looks like professional macramé.
Once you have the rhythm, try experimenting with "Glow in the Dark" or "UV-Changing" bands. These are huge in the current DIY scene. The UV bands look clear indoors but turn vibrant colors the moment you step into the sun. It’s a great way to add a "wow" factor to a craft that’s been around for over a decade. Keep your loom clean, store your bands away from direct heat so they don't melt together, and keep hooking.