Varenna is different. Unlike Bellagio, which feels like a glossy postcard that might smudge if you touch it, Varenna has grit beneath its beauty. It’s steeper, narrower, and honestly, a bit more honest. Right at the heart of this steepness sits the Hotel Royal Victoria by R Collection Hotels, a place that has been watching the ferry boats dock since the 19th century.
You’ve probably seen the photos. The yellow facade. The square (Piazza San Giorgio) where the bells of the church ring at intervals that seem designed to remind you that time is passing, even if you’re trying to ignore it. But staying here isn't just about a room with a view. It’s about being part of a lineage that includes Queen Victoria herself, who reportedly stayed here in 1838. That’s not a marketing gimmick; it’s the literal reason for the name.
The Reality of Staying at Hotel Royal Victoria by R Collection Hotels
Most people booking a trip to Lake Como make a classic mistake. They think every "lakefront" hotel is created equal. It isn't. Some are separated from the water by busy roads where Vespas buzz like angry hornets all night. The Hotel Royal Victoria by R Collection Hotels is actually on the water. Sorta. It sits on the edge of the pedestrian-only zone, meaning you can walk out the back door directly onto the Passerella degli Innamorati—the Lovers' Promenade.
The vibe inside? It’s old-world. If you’re looking for minimalist, hyper-modern Scandinavian design, you’re in the wrong town. Here, you get textile wallpapers, heavy drapes, and parquet floors that might creak just enough to let you know they’ve been there a while. The R Collection group took over a few years back and did a massive renovation, but they were smart enough not to strip away the soul. They kept the grand staircases but added the high-speed Wi-Fi and the kind of air conditioning that actually works when it’s 90 degrees in July.
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The Room Situation: Where to Put Your Luggage
Let's talk about the rooms because that's where the price tag starts to make sense—or doesn't, depending on your choices.
If you book a "Standard" or "Village View" room, you’re looking at the church or the cobblestone streets. It’s charming, sure. You hear the local life. But honestly, if you’re coming all this way, you’re doing yourself a disservice if you don't spring for the lake view. Seeing the sunset over the Grigne mountains from your private balcony is basically the whole point of being in Varenna. The suites are spacious, often featuring high ceilings that make you feel like 19th-century royalty, though the bathrooms are more 21st-century marble and chrome.
Eating and Drinking (Without Leaving the Property)
Varenna has plenty of tiny trattorias, but the hotel holds its own with two main spots: Royal Gourmet and Victoria Grill.
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Royal Gourmet is the formal one. It’s where you go when you want to feel fancy. The dining room has these massive windows that look out over the lake, and the menu leans heavily into Larian traditions. Think lake fish—lavarello or perch—served with risotto. It’s precise. It’s elegant. But if you want something a bit more "real life," the Victoria Grill on the piazza is better for people-watching. You can sit there with a Negroni and watch the weddings come out of the church. It's high-quality theater for the price of a cocktail.
- The Breakfast Buffet: It's a spread. We’re talking local cheeses, honeycomb, pastries that actually flake, and prosecco if you’re having that kind of morning.
- The Garden: There’s a swimming pool tucked away in the garden. It’s small. Don’t expect an Olympic lap pool. It’s more of a "dip your toes in while reading a book" kind of situation, but in a town built on a vertical cliff, having a flat garden and a pool is a massive luxury.
Why R Collection Matters
You’ll see the R Collection branding everywhere. It’s a family-owned Italian brand—the Rocchi family. This matters because it doesn't feel like a corporate Marriott. There is a specific type of Italian hospitality that is polished but still feels human. The staff usually knows the ferry schedule by heart and can tell you exactly which trail leads up to the Vezio Castle without looking at a map.
The Logistics Most Guides Skip
Getting to the Hotel Royal Victoria by R Collection Hotels is a bit of a workout. If you arrive by train, the walk down from the Varenna-Esino station is downhill, which is great until you realize you’re dragging a suitcase over 200-year-old cobblestones. My advice? Call the hotel ahead of time. They have a shuttle. Use it. Your wheels (and your wrists) will thank you.
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If you’re driving, God help you. Parking in Varenna is a nightmare. The hotel has a private garage, which is a literal godsend, but you need to reserve it in advance. Don't just show up and assume there's space. There won't be.
Hidden Details and Quirks
Did you know there’s a private pier? If you want to splurge on a private boat tour—which you should, even if it’s just for an hour—the boat can pick you up right at the hotel. No trekking through the crowds at the public ferry terminal.
Also, the hotel is often used for weddings. This is great for the atmosphere, but if you’re a light sleeper, check if there’s a big event during your stay. The Italians know how to party, and while the soundproofing is decent, the joy of a wedding party in the piazza is hard to muffle entirely.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit
To get the most out of a stay at this specific property, follow these steps:
- Book the Lake View: I cannot stress this enough. The price gap is worth the mental health benefits of that morning coffee on the balcony.
- The Vezio Hike: Leave the hotel through the front door, turn right, and follow the signs for Castello di Vezio. It’s a 20-minute steep hike. You’ll see ghost sculptures and a falconry center, plus the best aerial view of the hotel and the lake.
- Ferry Strategy: The Varenna ferry terminal is a 5-minute walk. Buy your tickets via the Navigazione Laghi app to skip the massive lines at the kiosk.
- Dinner Reservations: Even if you’re a guest, the Royal Gourmet fills up. Book your table the moment you check in, especially if you want a seat by the window.
- Off-Peak Timing: If you can, visit in late September or early October. The water is still warm enough for the pool, the crowds have thinned, and the light hitting the mountains is much more dramatic for photos.
The Hotel Royal Victoria isn't just a place to sleep; it’s a functional piece of Varenna’s history. It’s where the lake’s past meets its very busy present. If you want to feel like you’ve actually "done" Lake Como properly, this is the anchor point.