You’re standing on the Taos Plaza. It’s windy. The dust kicks up a bit, and for a second, you could be in 1820 or 1920 or 2026. Right there, anchored to the pavement like an old adobe ship, is Hotel La Fonda de Taos. It isn't just a place to sleep. Honestly, if you just wanted a bed, there’s a chain hotel down the road with better water pressure and thinner walls. People come here because they want to feel the weight of history—and maybe see some forbidden art that once caused a scandal in London.
The building is old. Not "marketing old," but legitimately rooted in the mud of the earth. It occupies a spot that has seen commerce and conflict for centuries. When you walk through those heavy doors, the air changes. It smells like old wood and history. It feels dense.
The Secret in the Back Room: D.H. Lawrence and the Forbidden Art
Let’s get the scandalous part out of the way first. Most people stumble into Hotel La Fonda de Taos because they heard about the paintings. We’re talking about the "Forbidden Art" of D.H. Lawrence.
In 1929, Lawrence had an exhibition in London. The authorities weren't fans. They seized the works, called them "obscene," and nearly burned them. Eventually, they were spirited away to New Mexico. Why Taos? Because Lawrence loved this place. He once said that the moment he saw the New Mexico sky, his "liberated young-old soul" changed forever.
The paintings are kept in a small room off the lobby. You have to pay a few bucks to see them. Saki Karavas, the hotel’s legendary former owner, acquired them after Lawrence’s widow, Frieda, passed away. Are they masterpieces? Well, critics have argued about that for decades. Some say they are crude. Others see a raw, pagan energy. But that’s not really the point. The point is that you are standing in a high-desert hotel looking at art that once shook the British establishment. It’s weird. It’s cool. It’s peak Taos.
This Isn't a Corporate Box
If you are looking for a "smart room" where you can control the lights with your voice, you are in the wrong place. Hotel La Fonda de Taos is idiosyncratic. The floors creak. The layout is a bit of a maze. The rooms are decorated with hand-painted furniture and Navajo rugs that actually feel like they belong there, rather than being ordered from a corporate catalog.
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- The Kiva fireplaces are real.
- The views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains are unobstructed.
- Every room feels like a guest room in a wealthy eccentric's hacienda.
The hotel sits at an elevation of nearly 7,000 feet. You’ll feel it. Your breath catches a little quicker. Your wine hits a little harder. The hotel embraces this slow, high-altitude vibe. It’s a place for people who want to put their phones away and actually read a book in a leather chair.
Living History on the Plaza
The history of this site predates the current structure. We’re talking about the only hotel located directly on the historic Taos Plaza. This was the terminus of the Santa Fe Trail. Traders, mountain men, and artists have been congregating on this exact patch of dirt for hundreds of years.
The current incarnation of the hotel was built in the late 1930s, replacing an older structure that burned down. It was designed to look "old" even then—part of the Pueblo Revival movement that defines the aesthetic of Northern New Mexico. It was a hub for the "Taos Society of Artists." Think of names like Ernest Blumenschein or Bert Phillips. They didn't just stay here; they lived the lifestyle that the hotel still tries to curate.
The architecture is heavy. Thick adobe walls. Vigas (exposed ceiling beams). It’s designed to keep the heat out in the summer and the warmth in during those brutal Taos winters. When the snow starts falling on the Plaza and the farolitos are lit, there is nowhere else on earth that feels quite like this.
Why Some Travelers Struggle Here
Let’s be real for a second. This hotel isn't for everyone. If you’re the type of traveler who leaves a one-star review because the Wi-Fi dropped for ten minutes or because there isn't an elevator on every corner, skip it. It’s a historic property.
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- The Plumbing: It’s old. It works, but it has character.
- The Noise: You are on the Plaza. There are festivals. There are people. It’s vibrant, but it’s not a soundproof tomb.
- The Service: It’s friendly, but it’s "mountain time" friendly. Don't expect New York City urgency.
But for the people who "get" it? Those quirks are the draw. You aren't staying in a sanitized version of the Southwest. You’re staying in the real thing. You’re staying where Mabel Dodge Luhan might have held court or where a tired skier from Taos Ski Valley comes to crash after a day on the Ridge.
Beyond the Lobby: What to Actually Do
Staying at Hotel La Fonda de Taos puts you in the center of the bullseye. You don't need a car once you check in, at least not for the immediate area.
Walk out the front door and you’re steps away from some of the best galleries in the country. The Harwood Museum of Art is a short walk away. The Taos Pueblo, a UNESCO World Heritage site that has been inhabited for over 1,000 years, is just a few miles up the road. You can’t understand Taos without visiting the Pueblo, and staying at La Fonda gives you that physical connection to the town’s core.
For food, you’ve got options right there. But honestly? Just get a coffee and sit on the Plaza. Watch the light change. The light in Taos is famous for a reason—it’s got this crystalline quality that makes colors pop in a way that seems fake.
The Karavas Legacy
You can't talk about this hotel without mentioning Saki Karavas. He was the owner for decades and a true "character" in a town full of them. He was a collector, a raconteur, and a man who deeply loved the romance of the West. He refused to sell the D.H. Lawrence paintings to galleries or private collectors because he wanted them to stay in Taos, available to the public.
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That spirit of "keeping it local" still permeates the place. Even though ownership has changed over the years, the DNA remains. It’s a family-owned vibe. It’s a stubborn refusal to become a Marriott.
Making the Most of Your Stay
If you’re planning a trip, here is how you do it right. Book a room with a Plaza view. Yes, it might be a bit noisier, but watching the sunrise over the adobe buildings is worth the trade-off.
Check the calendar for the San Geronimo Day at the Pueblo or the Taos Fall Arts Festival. During these times, the hotel becomes the heartbeat of the community. You’ll see locals, artists, and tourists all mingling in the lobby.
Don't rush. This is the biggest mistake people make. They treat Taos like a checklist. "See the bridge, see the church, see the paintings." Instead, spend an afternoon just sitting in the hotel’s public spaces. Look at the woodwork. Study the faces in the old photographs on the walls.
Practical Insights for the Modern Traveler
- Parking: It can be tricky on the Plaza. The hotel has options, but be prepared for a bit of a "Taos shuffle" during peak season.
- Altitude: Drink twice as much water as you think you need. Seriously. The dry air and elevation at Hotel La Fonda de Taos will dehydrate you before you realize it.
- Dining: The hotel’s own dining options often feature local New Mexican flavors. Don't be afraid of the green chile; it's a way of life here. If they ask "Red or Green?", the correct answer is "Christmas" (both).
- Seasonality: Summer is busy and beautiful. Winter is for the skiers and the seekers. Spring is "mud season"—it’s quiet, cheap, and weirdly charming if you like grey skies and solitude.
Hotel La Fonda de Taos stands as a testament to the idea that a building can hold the soul of a town. It’s imperfect, slightly weathered, and absolutely singular. It doesn't try to be anything other than what it is: the grand dame of the Taos Plaza.
Actionable Next Steps
- Check the Calendar: Before booking, look up the Taos Pueblo feast days. Visiting the hotel during these times offers a vastly different cultural experience, though you'll need to book months in advance.
- Verify the Gallery Hours: The D.H. Lawrence paintings are usually viewable during standard business hours, but it’s worth a quick call to the front desk to ensure the "Forbidden Art" room is open during your specific dates.
- Prepare for the Climate: Taos weather swings wildly. Even in July, nights can be chilly. Pack layers and high-SPF sunscreen, as the sun at 7,000 feet is significantly more intense than at sea level.
- Book Directly: While third-party sites work, calling the hotel directly often uncovers specific room histories or nuances (like which rooms have the original 1930s hand-painted furniture) that aren't listed online.