If you’ve ever stood on the promenade of La Concha beach in San Sebastián, you’ve seen it. It’s that massive, white, regal-looking building that looks like it belongs in a Wes Anderson film or a 19th-century oil painting. That’s the Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra. Honestly, if you’re visiting Donostia (the Basque name for the city) and you aren't at least grabbing a drink here, you’re kind of doing it wrong.
It’s old. Like, 1867 old.
But it doesn't feel like a dusty museum. It feels like a place where history actually happened. While other luxury hotels try to "pivot" or "rebrand" every five years to keep up with trends, this place just sits there, looking out over the Bay of Biscay, knowing it’s already won. It’s been the backdrop for royalty, spies, and film stars for over a century and a half.
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The Spy Who Slept Here (And Other Stories)
Let’s talk about Mata Hari. Yes, the actual Mata Hari. During World War I, Spain was neutral, which made San Sebastián a playground for people who didn't want to get shot or people who were busy selling secrets to people who did. She stayed at the Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra. Imagine her sitting in the Swing Bar, probably wearing something expensive, sipping a cocktail while watching the waves.
It wasn't just spies, though.
Queen Isabella II of Spain basically put this place on the map. Before she started summering here, San Sebastián was just a quiet fishing town. She brought the court, the aristocrats, and the money. The hotel was built right as the city was transforming into the "Biarritz of Spain."
The architecture is classic Belle Époque. High ceilings. Ornate moldings. The kind of staircase that makes you want to walk down it slowly while wearing a tuxedo or a ballgown. But the real flex? The views. If you book a room facing the city, you’ve made a mistake. You want the sea view. Waking up and seeing Santa Clara Island sitting in the middle of the turquoise bay is worth every extra Euro.
What Most People Get Wrong About the "Classic" Vibe
People hear "historic hotel" and they think "small beds and bad plumbing."
That’s not the case here. They’ve done a pretty incredible job of keeping the soul of the building while making sure the Wi-Fi actually works and the showers have pressure. The seventh floor is where things get really interesting. These are the attic rooms—the "Petit Londres" rooms—and they have these massive private terraces.
You’re literally looking down at the people on the beach. You can hear the tide. It’s one of those rare travel experiences that actually lives up to the photos on the website.
One thing you’ll notice quickly: the service isn't "corporate." It’s formal, but in a very Basque way. There’s a pride in the work that you don't see in big international chains. The concierge probably knows more about the best secret pintxos bars in the Old Town than any app you have on your phone.
Speaking of Pintxos...
The location is basically perfect. You’re a five-minute walk from the Parte Vieja (Old Town). If you go there, you’re going to eat the best food of your life. Start at Gandarias for the steak or La Viña for the world-famous burnt cheesecake.
But don't ignore the hotel's own food. The La Brasserie Mari Galant is legit. They focus on local products—Basque seafood, high-quality meats—without overcomplicating things. It’s sophisticated but approachable. You can sit there, look at the ocean, and eat turbot that was probably swimming a few hours ago.
Why the Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra Matters in 2026
We live in an era of "copy-paste" luxury. You can go to a high-end hotel in Dubai, New York, or Singapore and they all feel the same. Same marble, same generic lobby scent, same bland art.
The Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra is an antidote to that.
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It smells like sea salt and old wood. It has character. It has quirks. It’s survived the Spanish Civil War and the transition of San Sebastián from a royal retreat to a global culinary capital. It represents a time when travel was an event, not just a logistical hurdle.
Realities and Nuances
Look, no place is perfect. If you’re looking for a massive infinity pool or a hyper-modern "wellness retreat" with sound baths and kale smoothies, this isn't your spot. The gym is fine, but it’s not the focus. This is a place for people who want to walk the promenade, eat incredible food, and sleep in a room that has a history.
Also, it’s popular. Obviously. If there’s a festival going on—like the San Sebastián International Film Festival in September—good luck getting a room unless you booked it a year ago. During the festival, the hotel is basically the center of the universe. You’ll see directors and actors hanging out in the lobby, looking exhausted and glamorous.
The Pricing Factor
Is it expensive? Yeah, it’s a four-star superior hotel in one of the most expensive cities in Spain. But "value" is subjective. If you pay for a sea-view room, you aren't just paying for a bed. You’re paying for the 180-degree view of La Concha. You’re paying for the ability to walk out the front door and be on the sand in thirty seconds.
Actionable Steps for Your Stay
If you’re planning a trip, here is how to actually maximize the experience at the Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra without falling into the typical tourist traps.
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- Request the Seventh Floor: Even if you don't get a full suite, the attic-style rooms have a unique charm and often better light.
- The Sunset Ritual: Don't be in the Old Town at sunset. Be on the hotel terrace or in the Swing Bar. The way the light hits the Urgull and Igueldo mountains on either side of the bay is spectacular.
- The Breakfast Strategy: Most people skip hotel breakfasts to find a local cafe. Don't do that here. At least not every day. The breakfast room looks directly over the beach, and the spread includes local Basque cheeses and meats that are actually high quality.
- Walk to the Comb of the Wind: Turn right when you leave the hotel and walk all the way to the end of the bay. You’ll find the Eduardo Chillida sculptures. It’s a long walk, but it’s the best way to see the coastline.
- Check the Calendar: Avoid the week of August 15th (Semana Grande) unless you love crowds and fireworks. It’s chaotic. If you want a more "local" feel, try late May or early October. The weather is still decent, but the city breathes a bit more.
This hotel isn't just a place to put your suitcase. It’s a landmark. It’s a piece of San Sebastián’s identity. When you stay here, you’re part of a lineage of travelers that stretches back to the 1800s. It’s basically the closest thing to time travel you can get while still having a really good minibar.