You’ve probably seen the photos of the Costa Brava. Usually, it's those high-saturation shots of turquoise coves or the frantic energy of Lloret de Mar. But there is a specific, quiet corner of the Baix Empordà that feels different. It’s Llafranc. And if you’re looking for the heart of this village, you basically find yourself standing in front of Hotel Casamar Costa Brava.
It isn't a massive, glass-fronted resort. Thank god.
Honestly, the first thing you notice about Casamar is that it feels like a family home that just happens to have a Michelin-starred pedigree. It sits on a rise overlooking the bay. You get that salty breeze hitting your face before you even check-in. This isn't just about a place to sleep; it’s about the Casellas family—Maria, Jordi, and Quim—who have been running this spot since the mid-fifties. They took a simple summer house and turned it into a temple of Catalan hospitality without losing the "soul" of the place.
Most people get Llafranc wrong. They think it’s just another stop on the Cami de Ronda. But once you sit on the Casamar terrace with a glass of local Empordà white wine, you realize the pace of life here is intentionally slower.
The Real Deal on the Casamar Dining Experience
Let’s talk about the food because, frankly, that’s why half the people are here. For years, the restaurant at Hotel Casamar held a Michelin star. While the accolades are great for the ego, what actually matters is how Quim Casellas handles a sea urchin or a local red prawn from Palamós.
He isn't trying to do molecular gastronomy that looks like a science experiment. It’s "Cuina de l’Empordà." That basically means he uses what the fishermen caught three hours ago and what the farmers picked that morning.
- The "Arroz" is mandatory. If you visit the Costa Brava and don't eat a proper rice dish, did you even go?
- They do this thing with local squid that’s so tender it feels like a mistake, but it’s just perfect technique.
- The wine list isn't just a list; it’s a map of the region.
The restaurant isn't stuffy. You don’t feel like you have to whisper. It’s loud, it’s vibrant, and the view of the Mediterranean through those big windows makes everything taste about 20% better. That's a scientific fact. Sorta.
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What the Rooms are Actually Like
If you’re expecting gold-plated faucets and marble statues, you’re in the wrong place. Go to a chain hotel for that. The rooms at Hotel Casamar Costa Brava are clean, bright, and deeply Mediterranean. Think whites, soft blues, and lots of natural light.
Some rooms are smaller than others. That’s just the reality of an older building. But the "Sea View" rooms? Worth every extra Euro. Seriously. Waking up to the sunrise over Llafranc bay is the kind of thing that fixes your brain.
The bathrooms are modern, the beds are actually comfortable (not those weirdly hard hotel beds), and the WiFi works—though honestly, you should be looking at the ocean, not your emails.
A Quick Note on the Vibe
It’s quiet. Even in the peak of July when the beach down below is packed with families and umbrellas, Casamar feels like a sanctuary. It’s tucked just far enough up the hill to escape the noise of the promenade but close enough that you can walk down to the sand in three minutes. Just remember: the walk back up is a bit of a climb. It’ll help you burn off the crema catalana.
Navigating the Llafranc Landscape
Llafranc is part of a "trinity" of coastal towns: Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc, and Tamariu. You can walk between the first two on the Cami de Ronda in about 20 minutes. It’s one of the most beautiful coastal paths in the world. No exaggeration.
- The Lighthouse: Walk up to Sant Sebastià de la Guarda. It’s the highest point around. You can see all the way to the Pyrenees on a clear day.
- The Beach: Llafranc beach is sheltered. The water is usually calmer here than in Calella.
- The Neighbors: Calella de Palafrugell is more "picturesque" with its white arches (Les Voltes), but Llafranc has more "chill."
The Casamar staff actually know the area. They aren't reading from a brochure. If you ask Maria where to find a quiet cove that isn't swamped by tourists, she’ll actually tell you.
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The History You Won't Find in the Brochure
The hotel started as a humble guest house in 1955. Back then, the Costa Brava wasn't a global brand. It was just "the rugged coast" where people went to escape the heat of Barcelona. The Casellas family has seen the transition from dirt roads to Ferraris, yet they haven't changed the fundamental DNA of the place.
There's a sense of continuity here. You’ll see regulars who have been coming for thirty years. They know the servers' names. The servers know their favorite table. That kind of institutional memory is becoming rare in an era of Airbnb and faceless boutique hotels.
Is it Worth the Price?
Look, the Costa Brava isn't cheap anymore. It’s expensive. And Hotel Casamar Costa Brava is priced as a premium experience. But you have to weigh what you’re paying for. You aren't just paying for a square-meter room.
You’re paying for:
- Access to one of the best kitchens in Catalonia.
- A view that hasn't changed in a century.
- The peace of mind that comes with a family-run establishment.
If you want a massive pool with a swim-up bar and a DJ playing house music at 2 PM, don't stay here. You’ll hate it. But if you want a place where you can hear the waves and eat food that actually tastes like the land it came from, it’s a bargain.
Getting There and Moving Around
Getting to Llafranc is a bit of a trek if you don't have a car. The nearest train station is in Flaçà, and from there, you’ll need a taxi or a very specific bus connection (Sarfa).
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Honestly, rent a car.
Driving through the Empordà countryside is half the fun. You’ll pass medieval villages like Peratallada and Pals. Stop there. Buy some pottery in La Bisbal. Then head back to Casamar for dinner.
Parking Situation
Llafranc is tiny. Parking is a nightmare in the summer. The hotel has some solutions, but definitely coordinate with them before you arrive. Don't just show up with a massive SUV and expect a spot right out front.
Actionable Takeaways for Your Visit
If you’re planning a trip to Hotel Casamar Costa Brava, keep these three things in mind to actually enjoy it properly:
- Book the Restaurant Early: Even if you are staying at the hotel, the restaurant fills up with locals and foodies from Barcelona. Don't assume there's a table waiting for you.
- The Shoulder Season is King: Visit in late September or early October. The water is still warm enough to swim, the crowds are gone, and the light is much softer for photos.
- Walk the Cami de Ronda North: Most people go south toward Calella. Go north toward Tamariu. It’s a bit more rugged, but the views of the cliffs are staggering.
Casamar represents the best version of the Costa Brava—the one that hasn't been sold off to the highest bidder or turned into a theme park. It’s authentic, it’s family-owned, and it’s consistently excellent.
Next Steps for Your Trip:
- Check the official Hotel Casamar website for their seasonal opening dates, as they typically close during the deep winter months (November to March).
- Look into the "Empordà Golf" packages if you’re a golfer; the hotel often has partnerships with local courses.
- Map out your route through the Gavarres mountains if you’re driving from Barcelona—the inland roads are far more scenic than the AP-7 highway.
Stop overthinking the logistics and just get to the coast. The terrace is waiting.