You smell it before you even see the sign. That thick, sweet scent of premium tobacco mixed with the acidic sizzle of lime and mint. It’s unmistakable. If you’ve spent any time in Richmond, specifically wandering the uneven brick sidewalks of Shockoe Bottom, you know exactly what I’m talking about. We’re talking about Havana 59 downtown north 17th street Richmond VA, a spot that has somehow managed to survive the fickle trends of the RVA food scene for decades.
It isn't just a restaurant. Honestly, it’s a time capsule.
When you walk into that 19th-century building, the city outside—the construction on Main Street, the roar of the I-95 overpass—just sort of vanishes. You’re greeted by crumbling plaster walls that look like they haven’t been touched since the 1950s, which is entirely the point. It’s designed to evoke the "Golden Era" of Havana, and while that might sound like a gimmick in any other city, in Richmond, it feels earned. The lighting is low. The air feels heavy in a way that encourages you to stay for one more round. It’s moody.
What Actually Happens at Havana 59 Downtown North 17th Street Richmond VA?
Most people go for the mojitos. Let’s be real. If you haven't had a mojito at Havana 59 downtown north 17th street Richmond VA, have you even really been to the Bottom? They use fresh sugarcane, and they don't skimp on the mint. But there is a lot more to the physics of this place than just rum.
The layout is what makes it work. You have the main floor, which is great for a sit-down dinner, but the real magic is upstairs. The second floor features these massive windows that open up, essentially turning the entire level into an indoor-outdoor balcony. On a humid Virginia July night, with a breeze coming off the James River a few blocks away, it is arguably the best seat in the city.
Then there’s the dancing.
Thursday nights are legendary. You’ll see people who have been dancing salsa since the Reagan administration spinning around college kids from VCU who have no idea what they’re doing but are having the time of their lives anyway. There is a democratic energy to the dance floor here. It doesn't matter if you’re a pro or if you have two left feet; the percussion is so loud you can’t help but move.
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The Menu: More Than Just Rice and Beans
If you're expecting standard Tex-Mex, you’re in the wrong place. This is Caribbean-inspired, though it definitely has that Richmond flair. The Ropa Vieja is a staple for a reason. It’s slow-cooked, shredded beef that basically melts.
I’ve talked to people who swear by the tuna ceviche, which is surprisingly bright and fresh for a place that feels so dark and sultry. They also do a solid job with plantains—get them fried (tostones) or sweet (maduros). If you aren't sure which one you want, just get both. Life is short.
One thing to keep in mind: the service. Because the place is often packed, especially on weekends or during the 17th Street Farmers Market events, the pace is... well, it’s "island time." If you’re in a rush to catch a show at The National or a movie at Movieland, maybe don't come here for a full sit-down meal. This is a place for lingering. You come here when you want the night to slow down.
The Architecture of 16 North 17th Street
We have to talk about the building itself. Richmond is obsessed with its history, and for good reason. The structure housing Havana 59 downtown north 17th street Richmond VA is part of the fabric of Shockoe Bottom. This neighborhood was the original commercial center of the city.
The building features:
- Original heart-pine floors that creak in a way that feels intentional.
- Exposed brickwork that shows the scars of the last century.
- A multi-level deck that overlooks the 17th Street Market.
The 17th Street Market recently underwent a massive renovation to make it more of a "pedestrian plaza." While some locals miss the old, gritty feel of the vendor stalls, it has actually made the view from Havana 59’s balcony a lot better. You can watch the crowd below, see the bikers, the tourists, and the locals walking their dogs. It’s peak people-watching territory.
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The Cigar Culture
You can’t talk about Havana 59 without mentioning the cigars. It is one of the few places left where you can actually enjoy a cigar indoors (in designated areas). For some, this is the main draw. For others, it’s a reason to stay on the first floor or out on the patio.
They have a humidor. It’s stocked. Even if you aren't a smoker, there is something about the ritual of it that adds to the atmosphere. It feels like a scene out of an old spy novel. You expect to see someone in a linen suit whispering secrets in a corner booth.
Dealing with the Logistics (Parking and Crowds)
Let’s get practical for a second. Finding a spot near Havana 59 downtown north 17th street Richmond VA can be a nightmare if you don't know the trick.
- Don’t even try to park on 17th Street. Just don't.
- There are several paid lots under the I-95 overpass. They’re expensive, but they’re easy.
- If you’re willing to walk three blocks, look for street parking over by 20th or 21st Street.
- Better yet? Just take an Uber. You’re going to want that second mojito anyway.
The crowd changes depending on the hour. Early evening is a lot of "happy hour" folks from the downtown law firms and tech startups. As the sun goes down, the vibe shifts. The music gets louder. The lights get dimmer. By 11 PM, it’s a full-on party.
Is it Good for Dates?
Yes. Categorically, yes.
If you’re on a first date, the noise level upstairs on a salsa night might be a bit much for deep conversation. But if you get a table on the first floor or a quiet corner of the balcony, it’s incredibly romantic. There is something about the flickering candlelight against the old walls that makes everyone look a little bit better.
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Common Misconceptions
Some people think Havana 59 is just a bar. It isn't. The kitchen actually puts out some really sophisticated plates. Is it the cheapest meal in Richmond? No. But you’re paying for the environment.
Others think you have to be a great dancer to enjoy the salsa nights. Total lie. Half the people on the floor are just vibrating in place and laughing. The regulars are actually pretty welcoming if you ask for a quick lesson, though maybe don't interrupt them mid-spin.
Also, some people get confused about the entrance. It’s right there on 17th Street, but the building is so big it can feel imposing. Just walk in.
Actionable Tips for Your Visit
If you're planning to head down to Havana 59 downtown north 17th street Richmond VA, here is how to do it right:
- Make a Reservation: Especially for Friday or Saturday night. The balcony tables fill up weeks in advance during the spring and fall.
- Check the Calendar: They often have live bands. If you want a quieter dinner, go on a Tuesday or Wednesday.
- Dress the Part: You don't need a tuxedo, but you'll feel out of place in gym shorts. Think "smart casual." A nice shirt or a sundress fits the vibe perfectly.
- Explore the Neighborhood: Before dinner, walk over to the Main Street Station. It’s one of the most beautiful buildings in the country and it’s only a five-minute walk away.
- Try the Specials: The chef often does seafood specials that aren't on the regular menu. Ask your server. They usually know what’s freshest.
The Bottom has seen a lot of businesses come and go. It’s had floods, economic downturns, and shifting demographics. Yet, Havana 59 remains a constant. It’s a bit rough around the edges, a little loud, and definitely unapologetic about its identity. That’s probably why Richmond loves it.
Go for the mojito. Stay for the music. Watch the moon rise over the city from the balcony. It’s one of those rare places that actually lives up to the hype. If you want to experience the real Richmond—not the sanitized, suburban version, but the gritty, soulful, historic version—this is where you start.