Nike really messed with a winning formula. If you’ve spent any time looking at the resale market lately, you’ve probably noticed that people are paying a premium for older sweats. Specifically, they want the Gen 2 Nike Tech. It’s kind of a weird phenomenon if you think about it. Usually, in fashion, the newest iteration is the one everyone wants, but the Tech Fleece community is built different. They’re obsessed with the "OG" cuts.
Basically, the second generation—which roughly spanned the mid-2010s before the massive 2020 redesign—hit a sweet spot. It wasn't the experimental first run from 2013, and it wasn't the baggier, more "sustainable" version we see sitting on shelves today. It was slim. It was sharp. It actually felt like premium sportswear rather than just expensive pajamas.
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The Fit That Defined an Era
Let's talk about the silhouette because that’s where the Gen 2 really shines. Honestly, the modern versions feel a bit sloppy. They're loose in the seat and the taper doesn't start until way too low on the leg. But the Gen 2 Nike Tech? It was aggressive. It had that distinct, narrow V-shape in the joggers that made your sneakers pop. Whether you were rocking Air Max 95s or some clean Huaraches, the pants didn't swallow the shoe. They framed it.
Nike used a specific thermal construction back then. It’s a triple-layer fabric: foam between two layers of cotton jersey. In the second gen, this material felt denser. It held its shape. You’ve probably seen the newer ones start to "knee out" after just a few wears, looking all baggy and sad. The older stuff? It stayed crisp. It looked like a suit made of sweatshirt material.
There's also the matter of the zippers. The Gen 2 featured that iconic, oversized vertical chest pocket with the bonded Bemis tape. It wasn't just for show. It gave the hoodie a structural integrity that kept the chest from sagging. On the joggers, the long vertical side pocket became the signature "look" of the streets from London to New York. If you didn't have that taped seam running down your thigh, you weren't wearing the right Tech.
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Why the Change Happened (And Why Fans Hate It)
Around 2020, Nike moved toward the "Big Mood" or "New Generation" Tech Fleece. They claimed it was about sustainability and using more recycled polyester. That's cool and all, but the side effect was a change in the weight and the drape. The fabric got thinner. The colors lost that slightly heathered, depth-of-field look that the Gen 2 Nike Tech was famous for.
Critics and long-time fans noticed immediately. The "V" stitching on the chest of the Windrunner hoodies changed. The cuffs got looser. Basically, Nike tried to make it more "lifestyle" and less "tech." But the people buying this stuff wanted the tech. They wanted the articulated sleeves and the slim-fit joggers that didn't move around when you were actually, you know, moving.
- The "Gen 1" (2013) was the pioneer but had some weird sizing issues and less durable taping.
- The "Gen 2" (roughly 2015-2019) perfected the fabric weight and the slim "European" cut.
- The "Gen 3" (2020-present) shifted to a baggier, more inclusive fit that many purists feel lacks the premium edge of its predecessor.
Spotting a Real Gen 2 in the Wild
If you're hunting on eBay or Grailed, you need to know what you're looking at. The tags are the biggest giveaway. Look for the style codes. A classic Gen 2 Windrunner often carries the code 805144. If you see that on the small white tag inside the garment, you've found the holy grail of fleece.
The cuff construction is another tell. On the Gen 2 Nike Tech, the cuffs were often elasticized but very narrow. They weren't the thick, chunky ribbing you see on a standard Hanes hoodie. They were sleek. Also, check the heat-transferred Nike logo. On the older pairs, that logo is almost indestructible. On the newer, cheaper-feeling versions, people have complained about the swoosh peeling off after three trips through the dryer.
Don't even get me started on the colors. The "Dark Grey Heather" from the Gen 2 era is arguably the best colorway Nike has ever produced. It had this specific grit to it. The newer "Light University Red" or the latest "Midnight Navy" just feel a bit flat in comparison.
The Cultural Weight of the Second Gen
It’s impossible to talk about this gear without mentioning UK Drill and the "Roadman" aesthetic. This wasn't just gym clothes. It was a uniform. When Central Cee or any major UK artist stepped out in a full grey tech suit, they weren't wearing the baggy 2022 version. They were wearing the slim-fit Gen 2.
This cultural backing is why the resale value stays so high. People want the look of that specific era. It represents a time when Nike was really pushing the boundaries of what "sportswear" could be. It was expensive—usually $100+ for the hoodie and $100+ for the pants—but it felt worth it because the construction was so unique. You couldn't find a "dupe" that looked the same because nobody else was using that specific bonded-foam tech correctly.
Is It Still Worth Buying Today?
Honestly, yeah. But you have to be careful. Because Gen 2 Nike Tech is no longer in production, you're dealing with used markets. These pieces were meant to be worn, and many of them have been through the ringer.
- Check the Taping: If the black or transparent tape around the zippers is bubbling or peeling, walk away. That can't be fixed easily.
- Pilling is Real: Since it's a cotton blend, the inner thighs of the joggers often pill. A fabric shaver can fix a lot of this, but deep pilling means the foam core is starting to break down.
- Sizing Up: Remember, the Gen 2 was a slim fit. If you're used to modern, oversized clothing, you might actually need to size up in the older Tech Fleece. It was designed for a runner's build.
The market for this stuff isn't slowing down. If anything, the "vintage" (if we can call 2016 vintage) sportswear scene is exploding. Collectors are treating these hoodies like Jordans. They’re looking for specific seasonal colors like the "Seaweed Green" or the "Washed Teal" that only appeared for a few months during the Gen 2 run.
Taking Care of Your Find
If you manage to snag a crisp Gen 2 set, don't ruin it in the wash. This is where most people fail. You should never, ever put Tech Fleece in a hot dryer. The heat kills the bonded tape and makes the foam layer inside the fabric lose its "bounce."
Wash it cold. Turn it inside out to protect the Nike logo and the zippers. Hang dry it. It takes longer, sure, but that's how you keep a ten-year-old piece of clothing looking brand new. If you treat it right, the fabric remains stiff and structured, which is the whole point of wearing it in the first place.
Final Takeaway for Collectors
The Gen 2 Nike Tech represents a specific moment in design where function and street style actually collided without one compromising the other. It wasn't trying to be "eco-friendly" at the expense of the fit, and it wasn't trying to be "trendy" by being oversized. It was just a really well-engineered piece of clothing.
If you’re looking to upgrade your wardrobe with something that holds its value and looks better than the current retail offerings, start digging through the secondary markets. Look for the 805144 code. Check the taper. Make sure the zippers are solid. Once you put on a real Gen 2 hoodie, you’ll realize why everyone is so obsessed with "the old Nike."
Next Steps for the Savvy Buyer:
- Identify Your Size: Measure a pair of slim-fit pants you already own and compare the leg opening to Gen 2 listings; the 5-inch leg opening is the hallmark of that classic taper.
- Search Smart: Use specific keywords like "Nike Tech Fleece 2016" or "Bonded Zipper Tech Fleece" to bypass the thousands of new-gen listings.
- Inspect the Tags: Always ask a seller for a photo of the small white internal tag with the date and style code to ensure you aren't buying a 2020+ "New Generation" version by mistake.