Walking down Montana Avenue feels different than the rest of Santa Monica. It’s quieter. Refined. You aren't fighting the tourists from the pier, but you are definitely fighting for a parking spot near 16th Street. Right there, tucked into a bright, airy corner, sits Forma Restaurant Montana Avenue. It’s the kind of place that smells like toasted flour and funky dairy the second you cross the threshold. If you’re a local, you know it. If you’re just visiting, you’ve probably seen the giant cheese wheels behind the glass and wondered if they’re just for show.
They aren't.
Most people think "Italian food" and immediately go to red sauce. Forma is different. It’s basically a temple dedicated to dalla forma—the practice of tossing hot pasta directly inside a hollowed-out wheel of cheese. It sounds like a gimmick. Honestly, in a city like LA where everything is a "concept," it’s easy to be cynical. But then you taste the Chitarra tossed in a 24-month aged Pecorino Romano, and the cynicism just sort of melts away.
The Magic of the Wheel
Let's talk about the cheese. It's the soul of the place. General Manager and co-owner Mario Sabatini, along with Executive Chef Piero Topputo, didn't just pick a name that sounded cool. "Forma" literally refers to the wheel of cheese. They have this massive "cheese bar" which acts as the nerve center of the dining room.
It's a process.
They take cooked pasta, drop it into the carved-out center of a massive wheel—whether it’s Parmigiano Reggiano, Bella Lodi, or Cacio de Roma—and scrape the sides so the residual heat creates a creamy, emulsified sauce that no stovetop pan could ever replicate. It’s thick. It’s intense. It’s probably a nightmare for your cholesterol, but for your soul? It's a goldmine.
You’ve got choices here that most Italian joints won't touch. Most places stay safe with Parmesan. At Forma Restaurant Montana Avenue, they go deep. They use Tête de Moine, a Swiss cheese that’s shaved into delicate rosettes. They use Sottocenere, that truffled gray-ashed cheese that smells like a damp forest in the best way possible.
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What to Order if You’re Actually Hungry
Forget the "light bite" mentality for a second. If you’re coming here, you’re committing.
The Tortellini is the heavy hitter. It’s tossed in a solid wheel of Bella Lodi. Now, Bella Lodi is basically the black-rind cousin of Parmesan, but it’s creamier. The tortellini are small, stuffed with meat, and they come out looking like they’ve been lacquered in silk. It’s salty. It’s rich. You’ll want a glass of something acidic—maybe a crisp Falanghina—to cut through that fat.
Don't sleep on the Fettuccine Bolognese. A lot of people skip it because they think they can make it at home. You can't. Not like this. They toss it in a wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano, and the way the meat sauce binds with the freshly scraped cheese creates this umami bomb that is honestly hard to describe without sounding like a food critic cliché.
Beyond the Pasta Wheels
While the pasta gets the Instagram tags, the small plates are where the kitchen shows off its range. The grilled octopus is usually a good litmus test for a kitchen. Here, it’s charred enough to have that smoky bitterness but tender enough that you aren't chewing it like a rubber band ten minutes later.
Then there’s the fried artichokes.
They’re Roman style—Carciofi alla Giudia—crispy, salty, and served with a lemon aioli that makes you realize vegetables can actually be indulgent. It’s a nice break from the dairy-heavy mains.
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The Vibe on Montana
Montana Avenue has a specific energy. It’s wealthy, sure, but it’s "yoga pants and a $900 stroller" wealthy, not "Bel Air tuxedo" wealthy. Forma fits right in. The space is bright. Huge windows let in that Southern California light that makes everyone look five years younger.
It gets loud.
On a Tuesday night, it’s buzzing. On a Friday? It’s a madhouse. The tables are close together. You will likely overhear a tech executive discussing a seed round or a screenwriter complaining about their third act. That’s just Santa Monica. But the service stays remarkably grounded. It’s professional without being stuffy.
If you want a quieter experience, try to snag a seat at the cheese bar. Watching the chefs scrape those wheels is weirdly meditative. Plus, you get to see exactly which cheeses are peaking that week.
The Wine List Matters
You can’t eat this much cheese and drink water. Well, you can, but why would you? The wine list at Forma Restaurant Montana Avenue is heavily tilted toward Italy, as it should be. They have a solid selection of Super Tuscans, but honestly, look toward the smaller producers from Piedmont or Sicily.
A funky Etna Rosso works wonders with the heavier pastas. The acidity in those volcanic wines acts like a palate cleanser. If you’re stuck, just ask. The staff actually knows the bottles; they aren't just reading tasting notes off a cheat sheet in the back.
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Things to Keep in Mind
Nothing is perfect.
- Parking: It’s a nightmare. Truly. Give yourself 15 minutes to circle the residential blocks or just suck it up and use the valet if it's available.
- Reservations: Don't just show up at 7:00 PM on a Saturday and expect a table. Use OpenTable or Resy. Even then, you might wait 10 minutes past your time.
- The Bill: It adds up. Between the $28-35 pastas and the wine, you’re looking at a decent spend. But for the quality of the imported cheese alone, it’s fair.
There’s a misconception that "fancy" Italian food has to be tiny portions. Forma proves that wrong. You will leave full. You might even leave with a "cheese sweat" situation, but it’s worth it.
How to Do It Right
If you’re planning a visit, here’s the move. Start with the Polpette (meatballs). They’re light, remarkably airy, and come in a bright tomato sauce that preps your mouth for the salt-heavy cheese coming later.
For the main, share. Get one "wheel" pasta and one non-wheel dish, like the Filet Mignon or the Branzino. It balances the meal. If you go full-cheese-wheel for two people, you’re going to hit a wall by the third course.
And for dessert? The Nutella bread pudding. It’s ridiculous. It’s unnecessary. It’s perfect.
Practical Steps for Your Visit
- Check the Seasonal Specials: They often bring in limited-run cheeses that aren't on the permanent menu. Ask what's currently on the "guest wheel."
- Lunch is a Secret Weapon: If you want the same food without the roar of the evening crowd, go for a late lunch. The light in the restaurant is better for photos, and it’s way easier to get a table.
- Walk the Neighborhood: After a meal this heavy, you need to move. Walk down Montana toward the ocean. It’s about 15 blocks to the bluffs, and the walk will help you digest that Parmigiano.
- Dietary Restrictions: If you’re vegan, this is a tough one. They can do it, but you're missing the point of the restaurant. If you’re gluten-free, they do offer GF pasta options that can still be tossed in the cheese wheels, which is a massive win for the Celiac crowd.
Forma Restaurant Montana Avenue isn't just another Italian spot in a city full of them. It’s a specific experience. It’s about the theater of the wheel and the deep, complex flavors of aged dairy. It’s been a staple on Montana for years for a reason: they found a niche and they mastered it.
Go for the pasta. Stay for the vibe. Just remember to park three blocks away.
Quick Reference Guide
- Location: 1610 Montana Ave, Santa Monica, CA 90403
- Best For: Date night, cheese enthusiasts, upscale family dinners.
- Must-Try: Chitarra Cacio e Pepe (Pecorino Romano wheel).
- Price Point: $$$ (Moderate to High).