It looks like something out of a Disney movie. You’ve probably seen them on TikTok or tucked away in the corner of a high-end boutique—those crystal-clear tubes with a tiny, perfectly preserved blossom suspended right in the center of the wax. A flower in a lipstick seems like a gimmick. Honestly, it looks too pretty to actually use. But there is a reason these things keep going viral years after the initial hype.
It isn't just about the aesthetics. These jelly lipsticks are usually pH-reactive. That means the clear balm turns a specific shade of pink or coral based on your skin's temperature and natural acidity. It’s personal. It’s science. And it’s a bit of a nostalgia trip for anyone who grew up with mood rings.
The most famous version of this came from a brand called Kailijumei. Based in China, they basically broke the internet back in 2016. Suddenly, everyone wanted a gold-flecked, clear jelly stick with a real dried flower inside. But there’s a lot of confusion about what these actually do for your lips and whether they’re safe for long-term wear.
What is Actually Inside a Flower in a Lipstick?
You’d think it’s just plastic. It isn't. The "jelly" is typically a combination of ingredients like isostearyl alcohol, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, and various oils like jojoba or olive oil. These are what give it that glass-like transparency.
The flower itself is a real, dried chrysanthemum or a similar small blossom. They are treated so they don’t rot inside the balm. Brands like Winky Lux—a heavy hitter in the US market—use real flowers in their "Flower Balm" line. Because the flower is at the bottom or the core, you don't actually feel the petals against your lips until you’ve used up most of the product. By then, the flower is usually soft enough that it doesn't scratch.
The pH-Changing Magic
Why does it turn pink? It’s a specific dye called Red 27.
In the tube, Red 27 is colorless because it's dissolved in a water-free base. Once it hits your lips and touches the moisture (and the specific pH level of your skin), the chemical structure shifts. It becomes vibrant. If you have a higher pH, the color might look deeper. If you’re cooler or have a lower pH, it stays a pale, sheer tint.
It’s a bit of a gamble. Some people love the "custom" pink, while others find that every single pH lipstick turns the exact same shade of "Barbie pink" regardless of what the brand claims.
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The Difference Between Cheap Knockoffs and Quality Balms
If you spend five bucks on a flower in a lipstick from a random bin, your lips might pay for it. Cheap versions often skip the hydrating oils. They use heavy mineral oils or waxes that sit on top of the skin without soaking in. This leads to that "tight" feeling where your lips look glossy but feel bone-dry underneath.
Quality brands focus on the emollient side. Winky Lux uses coconut oil. Kailijumei often includes grape seed oil.
- Check the scent. High-quality jelly lipsticks usually have a faint fruity or floral scent.
- Look for gold flakes. Real gold leaf (often 24k) is sometimes added for extra shimmer, though it’s mostly for show.
- The Flower test. If the flower looks smashed or brown, the preservation process was rushed.
Honestly, the real value is the experience. Applying a lipstick that looks like a piece of art feels better than swiping on a basic Chapstick. It’s a tiny hit of dopamine in your makeup bag.
Is it Actually Good for Your Lips?
Let's be real. It’s more of a tint than a heavy-duty lip treatment. If you have severely chapped, bleeding lips, a flower in a lipstick isn't going to save you. You need a lanolin-based ointment or a thick overnight mask for that.
However, for daily wear, these are great "low-maintenance" products. Since the color is a stain, it doesn't smudge. You don't need a mirror to apply it. You can swipe it on while walking to a meeting, and the color will develop over the next two minutes.
Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a well-known dermatologist in New York, often points out that while pH-reactive dyes are generally safe, some people with sensitive skin might find the staining agents irritating. If your lips start tingling in a bad way, stop using it. But for most, it’s just a fun, hydrating tint.
How to Style a Clear Jelly Lipstick
You don't wear this like a traditional matte red. It’s too sheer for that.
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Instead, use it as a base. Many makeup artists use a pH-reactive flower balm to "wake up" the lips before applying a lip liner. This gives a natural flush so you don't look washed out.
It also works as a "no-makeup" makeup staple. If you’re just wearing tinted moisturizer and mascara, the sheer pink from the flower balm ties everything together without looking like you tried too hard. It’s the "your lips but better" look that every brand tries to sell, but this one actually delivers because it works with your own chemistry.
Why the Trend Refuses to Die
Fashion moves fast. Usually, a trend like this lasts six months and vanishes.
But the flower in a lipstick has staying power because it hits the "giftability" sweet spot. It's the perfect "I don't know what to get you" gift for a teenager, a bridesmaid, or a coworker. It looks expensive even when it isn't.
There's also the "secret" aspect. You pull out a clear stick, and your friends think you’re putting on lip balm. Then, suddenly, your lips are a bright, healthy pink. People ask questions. It’s a conversation starter.
Avoiding the "Pink Stain" Trap
One thing nobody tells you: some of these stains are stubborn.
Because Red 27 is a stain, it can be hard to remove at the end of the day. If you apply layer after layer, the pigment builds up. By 9 PM, you might have a neon pink ring around your mouth. To avoid this, use a dedicated oil-based makeup remover. A simple water-based wipe usually won't cut it.
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Quick Tips for Longevity:
- Don't leave it in a hot car. The jelly is softer than traditional wax and can melt into a puddle.
- Wipe the tip after use. If you wear it over foundation, the clear jelly will get cloudy.
- Keep the cap on tight. The oils can oxidize, making the "clear" part look yellow over time.
Finding the Right Brand
If you're ready to try one, don't just buy the first one you see on a social media ad.
Winky Lux is the gold standard for US consumers. They have a variety of "flavors" and the flowers are always pristine.
Kailijumei is the original. If you want the authentic "flower in a lipstick" experience that started the craze, this is it. They often come in fancy red boxes with mirrors.
Blossom is another solid choice, often found in clothing stores like Urban Outfitters. They specialize in floral-infused beauty and their lip glosses are actually packed with real dried flowers too.
The Verdict on the Flower Trend
Is it a revolution in skincare? No.
Is it the most beautiful thing in your makeup drawer? Probably.
The flower in a lipstick bridges the gap between childhood wonder and adult vanity. It’s a reminder that beauty products can be fun and slightly magical, rather than just another chore in a ten-step routine.
If you want a reliable tint that looks stunning on your vanity, it’s worth the twenty bucks. Just don't expect it to replace your heavy-duty winter lip balms.
Next Steps for the Best Results:
To get the most out of your jelly lipstick, start by exfoliating your lips with a damp washcloth or a sugar scrub. The pH-reactive dye can sometimes settle into dry patches, making the color look uneven. Once your lips are smooth, apply one thin layer and wait three minutes for the color to fully develop before adding more. If the pink is too intense, blot it once with a tissue to leave a soft, natural-looking stain that will last for hours without needing a touch-up.