If you walked into a high-end department store in 1976, the air probably smelled like a revolution. It wasn't just the bell-bottoms or the disco. It was a shift in how we thought about luxury. Before that year, jewelry houses stayed in their lane, making necklaces for the elite. Then came First by Van Cleef & Arpels perfume, and honestly, the fragrance world hasn't been the same since. It was a gamble that changed the industry.
Pierre Arpels wanted something that felt like a "jewel in scent form." That sounds like marketing fluff, right? But he actually pulled it off. He hired Jean-Claude Ellena—who was basically a rookie at the time but later became a god-tier perfumer at Hermès—to create it. What they ended up with was a massive, shimmering floral aldehyde that feels like putting on a heavy silk gown even if you’re just wearing jeans.
It’s a "big" perfume. If you’re used to the sugary, watery scents that dominate the Sephora shelves today, First might shock you. It’s dense. It’s complex. It’s got that vintage backbone that says, "I'm here, and I'm not leaving the room until I'm ready."
The Architecture of a Masterpiece
Most modern perfumes are built like a quick sketch. You get a burst of citrus, some vanilla, and then it’s gone. First by Van Cleef & Arpels perfume is built like a cathedral. Jean-Claude Ellena used over 160 ingredients. Think about that for a second. Most modern minimalist scents use maybe twenty or thirty.
The opening is a sharp, sparkly blast of aldehydes. If you aren't familiar with that term, think of the "fizzy" smell of expensive champagne or the way the air smells right after a lightning storm. It’s metallic, clean, and bright. This is paired with peach and raspberry, but don’t expect a fruit salad. These fruits are there to provide texture, not sweetness.
Then comes the heart. It’s a floral riot.
- Jasmine from Grasse
- Rose
- Orris root (which is incredibly expensive and smells like powdery earth)
- Ylang-ylang
- Hyacinth
- Narcissus
It's a lot. Honestly, it’s a bit overwhelming if you overspray. But that’s the point. It was designed to represent the "First" perfume from a jeweler, and it needed to feel as substantial as a diamond.
Why Aldehydes Are the Secret Sauce
You can’t talk about First without talking about aldehydes. These are synthetic organic compounds that give perfumes a "lift." Chanel No. 5 made them famous, but First took them to a more sophisticated, floral place. In First, the aldehydes act like a spotlight. They make the jasmine and rose feel three-dimensional. Without them, the perfume would just be a heavy floral sludge. With them, it breathes. It floats. It kind of dances on the skin.
Is It Too Old-Fashioned?
Let's be real. People often call First a "grandma scent." I hate that term. It’s lazy. What they usually mean is that it doesn’t smell like a cupcake or a bowl of berries. It smells like a person who has their life together. It smells like authority.
In the late 70s, women were entering the workforce in record numbers. They didn't want to smell like shy violets. They wanted to smell like they owned the boardroom. First provided that. It has a base of civet, oakmoss, and vetiver. The civet gives it a slight "animalic" growl—a warmth that mimics the smell of skin. The oakmoss adds a damp, forest-floor vibe that keeps the flowers from becoming too precious.
If you’re twenty-something and you wear this today, you aren't smelling like a grandma. You're smelling like a rebel. In a sea of "clean girl" scents that disappear in twenty minutes, wearing First by Van Cleef & Arpels perfume is a power move. It’s an olfactive statement of independence.
The Bottle: A Lesson in Design
We have to talk about the bottle. It was designed by Jacques Llorente. Look at the shape. It’s inspired by a "pendeloque" earring, which is a specific type of drop earring Van Cleef is famous for. The curve of the glass is meant to feel like a gemstone.
Even the cap has weight to it. In an era where everything is becoming plastic and disposable, holding a bottle of First feels... significant. It’s heavy. The proportions are perfect. It reflects the light in a way that makes it look like it belongs on a vanity in a Parisian apartment, not tucked away in a bathroom cabinet.
Formulation Changes and the Modern Version
If you find a bottle from the 80s at an estate sale, grab it. Regulations on ingredients like oakmoss (IFRA restrictions) have forced the company to tweak the formula over the years. The modern version is still excellent, but it’s a bit "thinner" than the original.
The vintage stuff is thicker, more buttery. The current Eau de Parfum is a bit more focused on the bright aldehydes and the clean jasmine. It’s more wearable for the daytime, honestly. You won't choke out your coworkers in the elevator as easily as you might with the 1976 original.
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How to Actually Wear It Without Overwhelming Everyone
First is a beast. You have to treat it with respect. If you spray it like you spray a body mist, you’re going to regret it.
- The Walk-Through Method: Spray once in the air and walk through the mist. This helps the aldehydes disperse so you don't get that "sharp" hit right in the nose.
- Pulse Points Only: One dab or spray on the wrists is usually enough for the entire day.
- Wait for the Dry Down: The first ten minutes are intense. Don't judge it immediately. Wait thirty minutes for the base notes to warm up. That's when the magic happens.
It’s also a "cold weather" scent. When it’s 95 degrees outside, First can feel a bit suffocating. But when it’s crisp and cold? It’s magnificent. The cold air cuts through the richness and makes the floral notes pop. It’s the ultimate "fur coat" perfume, even if your fur coat is actually just a thrifted wool blazer.
What Most People Get Wrong About First
The biggest misconception is that it’s a "formal" perfume. Sure, it goes great with a black-tie event. But there’s something incredibly chic about wearing a legendary French perfume with a white T-shirt and loafers. It creates a contrast. It says you know quality, but you don’t take yourself too seriously.
Another mistake? Thinking it’s only for women. While it was marketed to women, the dry down is surprisingly woody and earthy. On a man’s skin, the vetiver and oakmoss come forward more, and the jasmine takes on a sort of "expensive soap" quality. Fragrance has no gender, and First is a prime example of a scent that transcends those labels if you have the confidence to pull it off.
Actionable Insights for the Fragrance Collector
If you’re thinking about adding First by Van Cleef & Arpels perfume to your collection, here’s how to do it right:
- Sample the Eau de Toilette first. The EDT is often preferred over the EDP because it’s a bit more "airy" and emphasizes the sparkling top notes. It’s easier to wear daily.
- Check the batch codes. If you are buying from a reseller, look for bottles with the older logo or the "Sanofi" era packaging if you want that deeper, mossier punch.
- Layering potential. If you find it too "vintage," try layering it with a simple, single-note molecule scent like ISO E Super or a basic musk. It grounds the florals and makes it feel more "now."
- Storage is key. Because of the high percentage of natural oils and the delicate aldehydes, this perfume is sensitive to light. Keep it in the box or in a dark drawer. Do not keep it on your bathroom counter where the steam will kill the top notes in six months.
First is more than just a smell; it's a piece of history you can wear. It represents the moment when high jewelry and high perfumery collided, creating a standard that many brands still try to emulate today. Whether you love it or find it too "big," there is no denying its status as a landmark achievement in the world of scent. It demands attention, and in a world of boring, safe fragrances, that is exactly why it still matters.
Next Steps for Your Fragrance Journey:
Start by testing the Eau de Toilette version on your skin rather than a paper strip to see how the aldehydes react with your body chemistry. Once the scent has settled for at least two hours, observe the transition from the sharp floral opening to the warm, mossy dry down to determine if the "animalic" base notes suit your personal style.