Tracee Ellis Ross is basically the patron saint of volume. If you’ve spent any time scrolling through Instagram or watching Black-ish, you’ve seen it—that massive, glorious, unapologetic halo of curls. People search for tracee ellis ross thick hair secrets like they're looking for the Holy Grail, and honestly, can you blame them? It isn't just about genetics, though having Diana Ross as a mother certainly helps the cause. It’s about a very specific, almost ritualistic approach to hair health that she’s spent decades refining.
She didn't always love it.
Growing up, Tracee has openly talked about how she used to try and "beat her hair into submission." She’s mentioned in various interviews that she spent her teens trying to make her hair do things it simply wasn't built to do. It was a battle. But that battle eventually birthed Pattern Beauty, her massive haircare line, and a philosophy that focuses on "juicy and joyful" strands rather than just control.
The Reality of the Tracee Ellis Ross Thick Hair Texture
Let's get technical for a second. Tracee's hair is a mix of 3C and 4A curls. It’s dense. It’s thirsty. When people talk about her being "thick," they’re usually referring to that incredible density—the sheer number of hair follicles per square inch.
Many people think thickness is just about the diameter of a single hair strand. Nope. Tracee’s hair is a masterclass in density. It’s the kind of hair that requires an entire bottle of conditioner just to get a comb through it. She has famously said that she used to buy conditioner in bulk because the "standard" sizes were a joke for her volume.
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Moisture is the Only Law
If you want that level of bounce, you have to realize that frizz is just a curl crying for a drink. Tracee’s routine is built on the foundation of hydration. She doesn't just "apply" product; she works it in with a level of intensity that looks like a workout.
The secret? Water. Lots of it.
She often applies her products while standing directly under the showerhead or while her hair is soaking wet. This is a game-changer. When the hair is saturated, the cuticle is open and ready to receive. If you wait until you're out of the shower and towel-dried, you've already lost the battle. The moisture is trapped outside, sitting on the surface like a film, rather than soaking into the cortex.
Why the "Thick" Look Isn't Just Luck
There is a massive misconception that you can just "buy" Tracee’s hair. You can't. Even with the best products from Pattern Beauty, the thickness she maintains comes from her refusal to use high heat.
Heat is the enemy of density.
Every time you flat iron or blow-dry on high heat, you risk "heat training" the hair, which is really just a polite way of saying you’re damaging the protein structure until the curl loses its spring. Tracee rarely uses direct heat. When she does, it’s usually for a specific red carpet look, and it’s always preceded by a mountain of protectant. For her day-to-day, it’s air-drying or using a diffuser on a low, cool setting. This keeps the hair "fat." Heat thins the appearance of the hair by smoothing it down; air-drying allows the natural volume of the cuticle to take up space.
The "Squish to Condish" Method
Tracee has demonstrated her shower routine multiple times on social media, and it involves a lot of "squishing." This isn't just a quirky habit. By pulsing the hair with conditioner and water in her palms, she’s forcing the moisture into the hair shaft.
It’s messy.
Your bathroom will look like a swamp.
But this is how you get that defined, heavy curl that doesn't look "puffy." There is a big difference between thick hair and puffy hair. Puffy hair is dehydrated. Thick, defined hair is heavy with moisture.
The Tool Kit: Beyond the Bottles
You can't talk about her hair without talking about the tools. Tracee is a big believer in the "wide-tooth comb" and the "shower brush." But here is the nuance: she only detangles when the hair is loaded with "slip."
Slip is that slippery feeling you get from a high-quality conditioner.
If there’s no slip, the comb stays in the drawer. Tearing through thick hair while it's dry or semi-dry is the fastest way to cause breakage, and breakage is the number one killer of volume. If the ends are breaking off, the hair looks thin, no matter how much grows from the scalp.
Scalp Health is the Engine
Tracee often uses a scalp massager. It looks like a little spiked silicone tool. It’s not just for relaxation. Stimulating blood flow to the scalp ensures that the follicles are getting the nutrients they need to produce thick, healthy hair. She treats her scalp like skin—because it is skin. If the "soil" is healthy, the "plant" grows stronger.
Common Myths About Tracee's Routine
- Myth 1: She washes it every day. Absolutely not. Thick, curly hair like hers would become a desert if washed daily. She usually goes days between full washes, relying on co-washes (washing with conditioner only) or just refreshing the curls with a mist of water and a bit of leave-in.
- Myth 2: It’s all extensions. While many celebs use "clip-ins" for red carpets to get extra length, the core of Tracee’s look is her natural hair. She has spent years documenting the growth and health of her strands.
- Myth 3: You need expensive oils. Oils don't actually moisturize. They seal. Tracee uses oils at the end of her routine to lock in the water she put in earlier. If you put oil on dry hair, you're just making dry hair shiny.
The Cultural Impact of the "Thick" Aesthetic
Tracee Ellis Ross didn't just change her own hair; she changed the conversation for Black women. For a long time, "thick" hair was something to be "tamed" or "managed." Tracee flipped the script. She made it something to be celebrated.
When she launched Pattern, she specifically targeted the "curliest, coiliest, and tightest textures." These were the textures the mainstream beauty industry ignored for decades. By showing her own raw, un-styled, "thick" hair on camera, she gave people permission to embrace their natural volume.
It’s a political statement as much as a beauty one.
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Actionable Steps for Increasing Your Own Hair Density
If you’re looking to emulate that tracee ellis ross thick look, you need a strategy. You can't just wing it.
- Stop using towels. Regular terry cloth towels are too abrasive. They snag the hair and cause micro-frizz. Switch to a microfiber towel or, even better, an old cotton T-shirt.
- The "Sopping Wet" Rule. Apply your leave-in conditioner while you are still inside the shower. The hair should be dripping. This traps the maximum amount of water inside the hair cuticle before it has a chance to air-dry and frizz.
- Sectioning is non-negotiable. You cannot apply product to thick hair all at once. You’ll miss the middle layers. Section your hair into at least four parts and apply product to each section individually.
- Deep condition weekly. No exceptions. Use a mask that has both protein and moisture. Tracee’s hair stays thick because it’s strong. Protein fills in the gaps in the hair strand, while moisture keeps it flexible.
- Hands off. Once you’ve applied your product and defined your curls, stop touching them. Touching hair while it’s drying breaks the curl clumps and creates a fuzzy mess.
The Nuance of Styling
Tracee often uses a "wash and go" method, but it’s a bit of a misnomer. There is a lot of "going" but the "wash" part takes work. She uses a gel or a strong-hold cream to "set" the curls. This creates a "cast"—a hard shell around the hair.
Once the hair is 100% dry, you "scrunch out the crunch."
This leaves you with soft, bouncy curls that hold their shape for days. If you skip the hold product, thick hair will often just expand into a triangle shape as the day goes on. The goal is "controlled volume."
Dealing with "The Shrinkage"
One thing Tracee handles with grace is shrinkage. Her hair can look shoulder-length when curly and mid-back length when stretched. This is a sign of healthy, elastic hair. If your hair doesn't shrink, it’s likely lost its elasticity. Don't fight the shrinkage; embrace it as a sign of hair health.
Final Thoughts on Volume
Tracee Ellis Ross has proven that thick hair isn't a burden; it's a superpower. It requires a different set of rules—more water, more product, less heat, and a lot of patience. But the result is a crowning glory that is uniquely hers.
To get your hair to its thickest potential, stop looking for "miracle" products and start looking at your technique. It’s about the how, not just the what. Focus on the health of your scalp, the hydration of your strands, and the gentleness of your styling.
Start your journey by doing a "moisture reset" this weekend. Clarify your hair with a sulfate-free shampoo to remove old buildup, then apply a heavy-duty deep conditioner and leave it on for 30 minutes under a plastic cap. This creates a "greenhouse effect" that mimics the high-moisture environment Tracee swears by. From there, implement the "sopping wet" application method and see how your hair responds. True thickness is built over months of consistent care, not a single wash day.