You’re walking down Congress Street. It’s cold—that damp, biting Portland cold that gets into your bones—and then you see it. The neon sign for Empire Restaurant Portland Maine glows like a lighthouse. Honestly, if you haven’t stood on that sidewalk waiting for a table while the wind whips off Casco Bay, have you even really "done" the Portland food scene?
Empire isn't just a Chinese restaurant. It’s a landmark. It occupies the old Empire Chinese Kitchen space, a spot that has been serving food in some capacity since the early 20th century. When it reopened in its current iteration back in 2013, people were skeptical. Portland is a town that loves its tradition, but it also loves a good glow-up. The owners, Todd Moscowitz and Theresa Chan, managed to do something pretty rare: they kept the soul of a neighborhood haunt while elevating the menu to something that could compete in a much bigger city.
The Dim Sum Reality Check
Let’s talk about the food. Specifically, the dim sum. Most people think dim sum has to be this chaotic, rolling-cart experience in a massive hall with fluorescent lighting. Empire flipped that. It’s moody. It’s loud. The wood is dark, the lighting is low, and the dumplings are hand-folded with a level of precision that’s honestly kind of intimidating.
If you go and don't order the Bacon Wrapped Scallops or the Lobster Dumplings, you've basically wasted a trip. We're in Maine, after all. Using local cold-water lobster in a traditional Cantonese dumpling isn't just a gimmick; it’s a flex. The meat is sweet, the wrapper is translucent and thin, and it doesn't need a drop of soy sauce to be perfect.
But here is the thing: the soup dumplings (Xiao Long Bao) are the real test. Most places mess them up. Either the skin is too thick and doughy, or they burst before they hit your spoon. At Empire Restaurant Portland Maine, they’ve dialed in the physics. You get that rich, fatty broth held captive in a delicate pleat. It’s a messy, glorious ritual. You bite the corner, sip the soup, and wonder why you ever bother with frozen versions.
Why the Atmosphere Matters More Than You Think
The vibe at Empire is "upscale dive" meets "meticulous kitchen." It’s crowded. You will likely be elbow-to-elbow with a stranger.
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That’s part of the charm.
In a world where every new restaurant feels like it was designed by a corporate algorithm to be "Instagrammable," Empire feels lived-in. The walls are adorned with art that feels intentional, not decorative. There’s a frantic energy coming from the open kitchen area that makes the whole room feel alive. You can hear the hiss of the wok and the clinking of glasses from the bar.
Speaking of the bar, they actually care about their beverage program. It’s easy for a Chinese spot to just throw a few Tsingtaos in a fridge and call it a day. Empire does a lot more. They have a curated tea list that actually pairs with the grease and salt of the food, and their cocktail menu usually leans into botanical flavors that cut through the richness of the Peking Duck.
Not Just a Tourist Trap
It’s tempting to label anything on Congress Street as a tourist spot. And yeah, in July, you’re going to see a lot of out-of-state license plates and people carrying L.L. Bean tote bags. But look closer. You’ll see local chefs eating there on their nights off. You’ll see people who have lived in the West End for thirty years grabbing a quick order of Beef Chow Fun.
The menu has stayed remarkably consistent over the years, which is a double-edged sword. Some critics argue they should innovate more. But when your salt and pepper shrimp is that good, why change it? There is a comfort in knowing that the Garlic Green Beans will be exactly as snappy and charred as they were three years ago.
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The Logistics of Eating at Empire Restaurant Portland Maine
Listen, don’t just show up at 7:00 PM on a Saturday and expect to be seated immediately. You’ll be waiting. A long time.
They do take reservations for certain party sizes, but for the most part, it’s a high-volume game. The move is to put your name in, then wander over to a nearby bar for a drink while you wait for the text. It’s part of the Congress Street ecosystem.
- Timing is everything. If you can hit them for a late lunch or right when they open for dinner, you’ll bypass the worst of the crowd.
- Order for the table. Dim sum is meant to be shared. If you’re the person who orders one entree and refuses to share, you’re doing it wrong.
- The Specials. Seriously, look at the chalkboard or the insert. They often do seasonal vegetable dishes using stuff from the local farmers' markets that aren't on the permanent menu.
A Legacy in a Changing City
Portland is changing fast. A lot of the old-school spots are being replaced by high-concept bistros that charge $40 for a small plate of pasta. Empire Restaurant Portland Maine sits in a weird, beautiful middle ground. It’s not cheap, but it’s not pretentious. It’s high-quality food served in a space that feels like it belongs to the city, not just to the people visiting it.
The restaurant also serves as a gateway. For a lot of people in Maine, this was their first introduction to actual dim sum beyond the standard takeout fare. It’s educational without being preachy. You learn the difference between a bao and a potsticker just by eating through the menu.
There’s also the history of the building itself. The "Empire" name is a nod to the Empire Theater and the original Empire Chinese restaurant that occupied the space decades ago. By keeping the name, the current owners anchored themselves to Portland’s history. It’s a smart move. It gives the place a sense of permanence that a brand-new name wouldn't have achieved.
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What Most People Get Wrong
People often complain about the noise level. If you're looking for a quiet, romantic spot to whisper sweet nothings, Empire is a terrible choice. It’s loud. It’s bustling. It’s the kind of place where you have to lean in to hear your friend tell a story. But that’s the point. It’s a social house. It’s modeled after the busy tea houses of Hong Kong, where silence isn't really the goal.
Another misconception? That it’s "just" a dim sum place. Their larger plates, like the Mapo Tofu or the Walnut Shrimp, are technically proficient and huge. You can easily have a full, traditional dinner here without touching the small plates, though I don’t know why you’d want to.
Practical Steps for Your Visit
- Check the Hours. They aren't open 24/7. They usually have a mid-afternoon break between lunch and dinner service. Check their website or Google Maps before you trek down there.
- Download the App. They often use digital waitlist apps. Check if you can join the queue remotely before you even leave your house or hotel.
- Walk, Don't Drive. Parking in that part of Portland is a nightmare. Use a ride-share or just enjoy the walk through the Arts District.
- Don't Overthink the Order. Start with four or five small plates. See how you feel. You can always add more. The kitchen is usually fast.
- Get the Tea. It’s not just water with a bag in it. Their loose-leaf selections are genuinely good and help with digestion after a heavy meal.
At the end of the day, Empire Restaurant Portland Maine remains a cornerstone of the city's food identity because it knows exactly what it is. It doesn't try to be a fusion spot or a trendy lounge. It’s a place for high-quality Cantonese soul food, served in a room that feels like Portland. Whether you're a local or just passing through, it’s one of those rare places that actually lives up to the hype. Go for the dumplings, stay for the energy, and don't forget to try the spicy mustard—it'll clear your sinuses in the best way possible.
Next Steps for Your Portland Food Tour:
- Book a table at Empire at least 48 hours in advance if you have a group larger than six.
- Visit the nearby Portland Museum of Art before dinner to work up an appetite; it’s only a two-block walk.
- Explore the West End after your meal for some of the best historic architecture in New England.