Fashion isn't just a costume in Emily Cooper’s world. It’s a weapon. Sometimes it's a shield. But mostly, especially when it comes to Emily in Paris shoes, it is a total, beautiful, chaotic delusion that we all secretly want to live in. People love to complain about the logistics. How does she walk on those 18th-century cobblestones in five-inch stilettos? She doesn't. She floats. Or, more accurately, the actress Lily Collins spends a lot of time in UGGs between takes because, let's be real, Paris is a city built to destroy ankles.
Marylin Fitoussi, the show’s costume designer who took the reins from the legendary Patricia Field, knows exactly what she’s doing. She isn't trying to give you a documentary on Parisian street style. She’s giving you a sugar high. When you look at the footwear on this show, you aren't looking at "sensible" choices. You're looking at a curated collection of Louboutin, Pierre Hardy, and Malone Souliers that tells a story about an American girl who refuses to blend in.
It's loud. It's often "ringarde" (basic), as Pierre Cadault would say. But it’s never boring.
The Stiletto vs. Cobblestone Myth
Let’s address the elephant in the room: the physics of it all. If you’ve ever actually set foot in Le Marais or tried to hike up to Sacré-Cœur, you know that a needle-thin heel is a death wish. Yet, Emily in Paris shoes are almost exclusively vertical. In the first few seasons, we saw an endless parade of Christian Louboutin pumps. The "Hot Chick" or the "So Kate" models are staples for Emily. They have that iconic red sole that screams status, even when Emily is failing miserably at her French lessons.
But here’s the thing about the Louboutins on the show. They aren’t just there because they’re expensive. They represent Emily’s rigid, American "can-do" attitude. She is forcing her way into a culture that doesn't want her, and she’s doing it in shoes that require absolute discipline to wear. You can't be lazy in a pair of 120mm heels. You have to be "on" every second.
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Interestingly, as the seasons progress, we see a shift. The footwear gets chunkier. We start seeing platforms. We see the Medusa Aevitas pumps by Versace—those massive, double-platform satin heels that dominated the 2022/2023 fashion cycle. This reflects a shift in global trends, sure, but it also shows Emily finding her footing. Literally. A platform offers more surface area. It’s a bit more stable. It’s Emily becoming slightly more "Parisian" by realizing she needs to survive the day, not just survive the photo op.
Luxury Brands and Unexpected Collaborations
If you're hunting for the exact pairs seen on screen, you need a healthy credit limit and a lot of patience. The show relies heavily on high-end European houses. We've seen the Roger Vivier I Love Vivier pumps, which are quintessential Parisian chic with their pointed toes and heart-shaped interiors. Then there are the more avant-garde choices. Remember the scorched-yellow boots or the metallic knee-highs? Those often come from brands like Maison Skorpios or even more accessible labels like Terry de Havilland.
Fitoussi has a knack for mixing the unattainable with the "if I save up for three months" tier.
- Malone Souliers: Specifically the Maureen mule. It’s elegant, has those signature straps, and appeared early on to establish Emily’s "polished" look.
- Pierre Hardy: A favorite for color-blocking. These shoes often match Emily’s multi-colored coats perfectly, which is a very intentional, "too-matched" look that the French characters like Camille or Sylvie usually avoid.
- Carel Paris: This is where the show gets its most authentic French flavor. The "Kina" Mary Janes with the triple straps are a staple of actual Parisian women. They’re low-heeled, patent leather, and actually walkable. When Emily wears these, she’s at her most stylish because she isn't trying so hard.
Why the Shoes Change When She Leaves the City
The Saint-Tropez episodes and the ski trips to the French Alps provide a much-needed break from the stiletto madness. This is where we see the "vacation Emily." Suddenly, the Emily in Paris shoes transform into espadrilles and wedge sandals. We saw a lot of Castañer—the brand that basically invented the wedge espadrille at the request of Yves Saint Laurent back in the 70s.
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It's a subtle costume cue. Away from the office and the pressure of Savoir (or Agence Grateau), Emily can breathe. The shoes are softer. They’re made of canvas and jute, not patent leather and steel. But don't be fooled; she still won't wear a basic flip-flop. Even her casual footwear is curated. Even her "hiking" boots are probably shearling-lined Isabel Marant or Virgil Abloh-era Off-White.
The Sylvie Effect: A Lesson in Less is More
To understand why Emily’s shoes are so controversial, you have to look at Sylvie Grateau. Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu’s character is the antithesis of Emily’s "more is more" philosophy. Sylvie’s shoes are often understated. She favors the Gianvito Rossi "Portofino" sandal—a simple two-strap heel that is the height of sophistication.
Sylvie’s footwear says, "I don't need to show you the label." Emily’s footwear says, "Please look at my label so you know I belong here." It’s a brilliant bit of character work through accessories. While Emily is clattering around in multi-colored boots from Essentiel Antwerp, Sylvie is gliding in a neutral pump that costs twice as much but draws half the attention.
How to Get the Look Without Breaking an Ankle
Honestly, you don't need a five-figure wardrobe to channel the vibe. The secret to the Emily in Paris shoes aesthetic isn't the price tag—it's the audacity. It’s about wearing a boot that is three shades brighter than anyone expects. It’s about choosing a heel with an architectural shape instead of a standard block.
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If you want to shop this style realistically, look for brands like Kat Maconie. Her designs are incredibly "Emily"—lots of 3D flowers, bold color palettes, and quirky heels. For the more "French Girl" side of the show, brands like Jonak or Sezane offer those patent Mary Janes and boots that give you the look without the Louboutin price point.
- Prioritize texture. Think velvet, patent, or metallic.
- Ignore the "no more than three colors" rule. Emily ignores it; why shouldn't you?
- Invest in a good cobbler. If you are going to wear these styles in the real world, you’ll need those heels reinforced.
- Confidence is the actual accessory. You have to walk like the street is your runway, even if you’re just going to the pharmacy for some Advil because your feet hurt.
The Practical Side of TV Magic
It’s worth noting that what we see on screen is a highly edited version of reality. In many shots where Emily is only visible from the waist up, Lily Collins is reportedly wearing sneakers. There’s a famous anecdote from the set where the crew had to help the actresses navigate the gravel paths of the Jardin des Tuileries because their heels kept sinking.
This is the "limitation" of the show's fashion. It’s aspirational, not functional. But that’s why we watch, isn't it? We don't watch Emily in Paris to see her wear a sensible pair of Allbirds. We watch to see the dream. We watch to see the $1,200 boots get splashed by a puddle because it makes the drama feel more expensive.
The Actionable Insight for Your Wardrobe
If you're looking to upgrade your footwear game inspired by the show, start with one "statement" pair. Don't try to buy a whole closet of neon boots. Find one pair of shoes that makes you feel a bit "too much," and then wear them with a simple outfit. That's the real-world way to do it. You don't need the Eiffel Tower in the background to make a great pair of shoes work—you just need the nerve to put them on.
For those tracking specific releases, keep an eye on the seasonal drops from Malone Souliers and Christian Louboutin, as they often release "capsule" vibes that mirror the show's aesthetic right as the new seasons hit Netflix. The "Emily effect" is real; once a shoe appears on the show, it typically sells out within 48 hours. If you see something you love, don't wait for the reviews. Just get it.
The most important takeaway from the Emily in Paris shoes phenomenon? Fashion is supposed to be fun. It’s okay if it’s a little ridiculous. In a world that can be pretty grey, there’s nothing wrong with choosing the bright pink heels. Even if you have to carry a pair of flats in your bag for the walk home.