You’re driving through Wolfeboro, New Hampshire, and you expect the usual. You expect fried clams, maybe a decent chowder, or a burger from a place that’s been there since the Eisenhower administration. Then you see it. It’s a literal barn. But inside? It is 1968 in the best way possible. East of Suez restaurant isn't just a place to eat; it’s a weirdly beautiful time capsule that has somehow survived the era of TikTok foodies and corporate "fast-casual" nonsense.
Honestly, it shouldn't work. A Pan-Asian restaurant tucked into a rustic New England barn on the side of Route 28? It sounds like a fever dream. But Charles and Philippa Murphy opened this place back in the late sixties, and it has stayed remarkably true to its roots ever since. If you’re looking for sleek, modern minimalism, you are in the wrong place. This is about history, flavor, and a very specific kind of mountain-town magic.
The Vibe Most People Get Wrong About East of Suez
A lot of people think "fusion" means a chef trying too hard to be trendy. East of Suez isn't that. It’s more of an ethnographic collection of flavors. The menu doesn't try to blend Japan and Thailand into one confusing mess; instead, it presents them as distinct chapters in a long, delicious book.
Walking in feels like visiting an eccentric traveler’s living room. The lighting is dim. There are artifacts everywhere. It feels intimate, maybe even a little bit mysterious. It’s the kind of place where you actually put your phone away because looking at the walls is more interesting than scrolling.
The restaurant operates on a seasonal basis. That’s a huge detail people miss. If you show up in the middle of January hoping for Indonesian Satay, you’re going to be staring at a closed door. They run primarily from late spring through the fall foliage season. It makes the experience feel like a summer tradition rather than just another Friday night dinner.
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Let’s Talk About the Philippa Murphy Legacy
You can’t talk about the East of Suez restaurant without mentioning the late Philippa Murphy. She was the heart of the kitchen for decades. Her background wasn't just "culinary school"; it was lived experience and a deep, abiding respect for the cuisines of Southeast Asia. She traveled. She learned. She brought those recipes back to a part of New Hampshire that, at the time, probably thought soy sauce was "exotic."
The kitchen is now in the hands of those who carry that torch, maintaining the specific techniques she championed. It’s about the Satay. Honestly, if you don't order the Satay, why are you even there? They use a traditional peanut sauce that isn't that sugary, neon-orange stuff you get at a mall food court. It’s gritty, earthy, and complex.
What to Actually Order (And What to Skip)
Most regulars will tell you to stick to the Indonesian and Philippine-inspired dishes. That’s where the soul of the menu lives.
- The Lumpia: These are Philippine spring rolls. They are thin, incredibly crispy, and served with a dipping sauce that actually has a bite to it.
- Indonesian Fried Rice (Nasi Goreng): It’s savory, a little sweet from the kecap manis, and incredibly filling.
- The Specials: Always, always check the chalkboard. Sometimes they do things with local New Hampshire produce that shouldn't work with ginger and lemongrass, but somehow, it does.
If you’re expecting "Americanized" Chinese food—think General Tso’s or bright red sweet and sour pork—you might be disappointed. This isn't that kind of place. The flavors here are more subtle. There’s a lot of coconut, lime, coriander, and peanut. It’s balanced.
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Why the Location Matters
Route 28 is the artery of the Lakes Region. You’ve got Lake Winnipesaukee right there, and Wolfeboro prides itself on being the "Oldest Summer Resort in America." Amidst all the upscale boutiques and high-end boat rentals, East of Suez feels like a rebel. It’s a reminder that the region has a quirky, intellectual history that goes beyond just water skiing and ice cream.
The barn itself—an old 1800s structure—provides an acoustic quality you just don't get in modern buildings. It’s quiet. Even when the room is full, the wood seems to soak up the clatter, leaving you with just the sound of low conversation and the occasional sizzle from the kitchen.
The Reality of Seasonal Dining
Let's be real for a second. Running a seasonal restaurant in a tourist town is brutal. Many places in the White Mountains fold after three years. East of Suez has been around for over fifty. That kind of longevity doesn't happen by accident. It happens because of a fanatical local following and a reputation that spreads through word-of-mouth rather than paid Instagram ads.
There are limitations. Because it’s an old building, it’s not the most accessible place in the world. It can get hot in the peak of July because, well, it’s a barn. But that’s part of the charm. You’re there for the atmosphere as much as the food. It’s a sensory experience that starts the moment you pull into the gravel parking lot.
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Is It Worth the Trip?
If you are coming from Boston or Portland, it’s a hike. But if you’re already in the Lakes Region, it’s mandatory. The East of Suez restaurant represents a bridge between two worlds. It’s the ruggedness of New Hampshire meets the vibrancy of the East.
The prices are fair for the quality, but don't expect "takeout" prices. You’re paying for the fact that someone spent hours pounding peanuts for your sauce and hand-rolling your Lumpia. You’re paying for the history.
The Best Way to Experience East of Suez
- Make a Reservation. Seriously. Don't just wing it on a Saturday in August. You’ll be waiting in the parking lot for an hour.
- Go Early. Catch the sunset over the mountains or the lake, then head in for dinner. The transition from the bright NH sun to the dim, moody interior of the barn is part of the "portal" effect.
- Share Everything. The menu is designed for exploration. If you just get one entree and sit there, you’re missing the point. Get three or four appetizers for the table.
- Talk to the Staff. Many of the people working there have been around for years. They know the history of the dishes and can tell you what’s particularly fresh that day.
A Legacy in Every Bite
In a world where every restaurant is starting to look like a Pinterest board—white subway tiles, Edison bulbs, and succulents—East of Suez is a breath of fresh air. It’s dark, it’s woody, it’s smells like incense and spices, and it doesn't care about your aesthetic. It cares about the food and the feeling of being somewhere else for an hour or two.
It’s easy to get cynical about "destination dining," but this is the real deal. It’s a family legacy that has survived against the odds. When you sit down at a table there, you aren't just a customer; you're part of a tradition that has been quiet, consistent, and delicious since the Summer of Love.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Visit
- Check the Calendar: Before you start the car, verify their current seasonal hours on their official website or social media. They typically open in late May.
- Bring Cash: While they take cards, it's always smart in rural New Hampshire to have a backup, especially since tech in old barns can sometimes be finicky.
- Explore Wolfeboro First: Spend the afternoon at the Wright Museum of World War II or walking the Cotton Valley Rail Trail to work up an appetite.
- Order the Satay: Seriously. This isn't a suggestion; it’s a requirement for the full experience.
- Dress Casual-Chic: You don't need a suit, but don't show up in your swim trunks straight from the lake. Respect the barn.