If you walk into Earnestine & Hazel's Memphis TN expecting a polished cocktail lounge with gold-rimmed menus, you're in the wrong part of town. Honestly, you might even think you've walked into a building that’s halfway through being condemned. The floorboards groan. The walls look like they’ve absorbed fifty years of cigarette smoke and secret conversations. But that’s the point. This place isn't just a dive bar; it’s a living, breathing time capsule of Memphis grit.
Located at 531 South Main Street, this spot has a history that reads like a gritty Southern gothic novel. It started as a church in the late 1800s, which is ironic considering the amount of "sinning" that went on in the decades to follow. Later, it was a pharmacy owned by Abe Plough—the guy who basically invented Coppertone sunscreen. But it didn't become the legend it is today until two sisters, Earnestine Mitchell and Hazel Jones, took over the building in the 1960s.
They ran a hair salon upstairs and a cafe downstairs. Their husband, a music promoter named Sunbeam, would bring over the greats—we're talking Ray Charles, Aretha Franklin, and Otis Redding—after their shows at the nearby Club Paradise. Imagine sitting in a booth, eating a burger, and seeing Ray Charles being led to the piano. That wasn't a "special event" here. It was just Tuesday.
The Soul Burger: Why Simplicity Wins Every Time
You can't talk about Earnestine & Hazel's Memphis TN without talking about the Soul Burger. People argue about burgers like they argue about politics, but in Memphis, the Soul Burger is a religion.
It’s not "gourmet." There are no truffle oils or brioche buns toasted by a French pastry chef. It’s a thin patty, onions, cheese, pickles, and "Soul Sauce," served on a plain white bun. The real magic? The griddle. It’s a flat-top that’s been seasoned for decades. Word on the street—and confirmed by long-time bartenders—is that they use pickle juice to steam the onions and meat right on the steel.
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The result is a greasy, salty, perfect mess. It’s the kind of food that tastes better at 1:00 AM after three beers than anything you'll find at a five-star restaurant. It’s served in a paper bag. No fries. Just a bag of chips if you’re lucky. It’s honest food for a city that doesn't have time for pretension.
The Jukebox That Knows Too Much
One of the weirdest things about this place is the jukebox. It’s legendary. It doesn't just play music; it responds to the room. Ask any regular, and they’ll tell you a story about the jukebox turning itself on or picking a song that perfectly matches the conversation happening at the bar.
There’s a famous story about a group of friends talking about James Brown the day he died. Suddenly, the jukebox—which nobody was touching—started blaring "I Feel Good." Or the time a paranormal investigator was talking about exorcisms and the machine immediately queued up "Sympathy for the Devil" by the Rolling Stones. Coincidence? Maybe. But after you've been in that building for an hour, you start to believe the walls are listening.
Upstairs at Earnestine & Hazel's: The Darker Side of History
If the downstairs is for burgers and beer, the upstairs is for the ghosts. During the sisters' reign, the second floor served as a brothel. It was one of the last "open secrets" in Memphis. You can still see the rooms—small, cramped spaces that feel heavy with the weight of thousands of lonely nights.
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There are at least 13 documented deaths in this building. One of them was Russell George, the man who bought the place from the sisters in the 90s and turned it into the dive bar icon it is now. He was a beloved figure, a guy who won a James Brown dance contest when he was ten. Sadly, he took his own life upstairs in 2013 after a long battle with illness.
Many people say his spirit never left.
Bartenders have reported:
- Footsteps in empty hallways.
- Cold spots that make your hair stand up.
- The smell of perfume in rooms where nobody is standing.
- Human remains were actually found in the building during renovations in 2019, which only added fuel to the fire.
The upstairs bar, often called Nate’s Bar, is where things get even more atmospheric. Nate was a fixture there for years, serving liquor when the downstairs only had beer. Walking through those upper rooms feels like stepping back into the 1940s. The peeling wallpaper and old furniture aren't a "vibe" created by an interior designer; they are the original relics of a bygone era.
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Why This Place Survives
Memphis has changed. South Main is now full of boutique hotels and expensive lofts. Yet, Earnestine & Hazel's Memphis TN remains stubbornly the same. It survived the decline of the 70s and 80s, it survived the pandemic, and it survived ownership changes.
The new owners, who took over around 2021, have thankfully kept their hands off the "patina." They fixed the roof and the structural issues but left the grime and the soul intact. They know that if you paint the walls or level the floors, the magic disappears.
What You Need to Know Before You Go
If you’re planning a visit, don't show up at 5:00 PM expecting a crowd. This is a late-night haunt. It doesn't really start "humming" until after 10:00 PM.
Bring cash. While they take cards now, cash is faster and fits the aesthetic.
Go upstairs. Don't be afraid. Even if you don't believe in ghosts, the historical "vibe" of the former brothel is something you won't find anywhere else in the country.
Talk to the bartender. Whether it's Clarence or someone else behind the pine, they have stories. They've seen the celebrities, they've heard the jukebox talk, and they know where the bodies are buried—literally and figuratively.
The Soul Burger price has gone up over the years—it’s not the five-dollar steal it used to be—but it’s still one of the cheapest ways to buy a piece of Memphis history.
Actionable Takeaway for Your Visit
When you walk in, head straight to the back and order a Soul Burger with everything. While you wait, walk the perimeter of the downstairs and look at the photos on the walls. Then, take your burger upstairs. Find a corner in the "Blue Room" or near the old piano. Sit in the silence and just listen. If the jukebox starts playing something that feels a little too relevant to your life at that moment, don't overthink it. Just enjoy the music. That's just Earnestine and Hazel saying hello.