Why Difficult Colour by Numbers Are the Hardest Hobby You’ll Ever Love

Why Difficult Colour by Numbers Are the Hardest Hobby You’ll Ever Love

You probably remember those thin, waxy paper books from your childhood. The ones where you’d scribble a messy yellow over a giant "1" to make a sun. It was easy. It was mindless. It was, honestly, a little bit boring after ten minutes. But the world of adult hobbies has mutated into something far more intense, and difficult colour by numbers have become the ultimate test of patience for people who want to shut their brains off by working them harder than ever.

We aren't talking about big blocks of primary colors anymore. We’re talking about canvases that look like a swarm of bees landed on a linen sheet. Thousands of tiny, microscopic cells. Shapes so small you need a literal magnifying glass just to see if that's a 4 or a 14.

It’s stressful. It’s tedious. And for some reason, thousands of us are obsessed with it.

The Brutal Reality of High-Detail Canvas Mapping

When you buy a kit labeled "expert" or "detailed," you aren't just buying art supplies. You’re signing up for a marathon. Most standard kits for kids might have 20 or 30 areas to paint. A truly difficult colour by numbers set can have upwards of 3,000 individual segments on a single 16x20 canvas.

Think about that for a second.

If you spend thirty seconds on each segment—accounting for paint mixing, brush cleaning, and the actual application—you’re looking at 25 hours of pure, concentrated labor. That doesn't even include the "dry time" or the inevitable moment you realize you used "Dark Umber" where "Burnt Sienna" was supposed to go.

The complexity usually comes from "confetti." In the world of diamond painting and paint-by-numbers, "confetti" refers to those areas where colors change every few millimeters. There is no "flow." You dip, you dot, you wash the brush. You do it again. It’s a rhythmic, almost hypnotic form of torture that results in a finished product that actually looks like a professional oil painting rather than a cartoon.

Why Your Eyes Might Actually Hurt

It’s the squinting.

🔗 Read more: Monroe Central High School Ohio: What Local Families Actually Need to Know

Many high-end brands like Schipper or Dimensions utilize what they call "linen-textured" boards or canvases. Because the surface isn't perfectly flat, the paint settles into the grooves. When the numbers are printed in light grey ink to ensure they don't show through the final coat, they become nearly invisible under standard household lighting.

Serious hobbyists have started using LED light pads—the kind animators use—to shine light through the back of the canvas. It’s the only way to survive the "shadow zones" of a complex piece. Without proper gear, a difficult kit isn't just a challenge; it’s a recipe for a headache.

Logistics: The Paint Problem

Most people think the difficulty lies in the steady hand. It doesn't. Not really. The real difficulty is "viscosity management."

Acrylic paint, which comes in almost every kit, is a fickle beast. If it’s too thick, you get "peaks" and ridges that look messy. If you thin it with too much water, the paint becomes transparent, and the printed number mocks you from beneath the pigment. You have to find that "sweet spot"—the consistency of heavy cream.

In a difficult colour by numbers project, the pots are tiny. Because the segments are so small, the paint sits in the open air longer while you meticulously fill in those tiny slivers. It dries out. It gets tacky.

The Gesso Secret

If you want to handle a truly complex kit, you have to talk about Clear Gesso. Professional-grade canvases are often too "thirsty." They suck the moisture out of the acrylic paint instantly. Experts like those found in the Paint by Number Enthusiasts communities on Facebook or Reddit swear by prepping the canvas with a layer of clear gesso first.

It gives the surface "tooth." It keeps the paint on top of the fabric instead of letting it soak in. It sounds like an extra, unnecessary step, but when you’re dealing with a 48-color palette, it’s the difference between a masterpiece and a muddy mess.

💡 You might also like: What Does a Stoner Mean? Why the Answer Is Changing in 2026

Top Brands Making the Hardest Kits Right Now

Not all kits are created equal. If you go to a big-box craft store, you’re likely getting something "medium" at best. To find the truly grueling stuff, you have to look at specialized manufacturers.

  • Schipper (Germany): These are widely considered the gold standard. They don't use canvas; they use thick, primed cardboard. Why? Because cardboard doesn't stretch or sag. Their "Triptych" collections are massive. You’re looking at three separate panels that form one giant image. The paint quality is legendary—usually, you don't even need to mix them.
  • Dimensions (Crafts): Their "PaintWorks" line is notorious for "mixing." This is where the real difficulty spikes. They might give you 12 pots of paint, but the instructions tell you to mix 1 part of color #1 with 3 parts of color #5 to create a custom shade. It adds a layer of color theory that most beginners find overwhelming.
  • Masterpiece by Numbers: They focus on "Realism." Their kits are based on actual photographs or classical paintings. This means the gradients are incredibly subtle. You might have six different shades of "off-white" in a single clouds-scape.

The Psychology of Why We Do This

It feels like work. So why is it a "lifestyle" choice?

There’s a concept in psychology called "Flow." It’s that state where you’re so involved in an activity that nothing else seems to matter. Because difficult colour by numbers require such high levels of concentration, they force the "chatter" in your brain to shut up. You can't worry about your mortgage or that awkward thing you said in 2014 when you’re trying to navigate a size 000 brush around a curved line the size of a grain of rice.

It’s meditative.

It’s also about the "Big Reveal." When you’re working on a complex kit, it looks like nothing for the first ten hours. It’s just blobs of disconnected color. Then, suddenly, you step back, and the perspective shifts. Those blobs become a crashing wave or the fur on a tiger’s neck. That "aha!" moment is a massive dopamine hit.

Managing the "Middle-Project Slump"

Every person who tackles a high-detail kit hits the wall. It usually happens around the 40% mark. You’ve put in twelve hours, and you still have half a canvas of white space staring back at you.

The trick is to stop looking at the whole thing.

📖 Related: Am I Gay Buzzfeed Quizzes and the Quest for Identity Online

Cover the parts you aren't working on with parchment paper. Focus on one 2-inch square. Finish that square completely. The sense of micro-accomplishment keeps you going. Some people prefer to do all of one color at a time—the "search and find" method—but on difficult kits, this can lead to mistakes because you lose track of the overall composition.

Lighting and Ergonomics

If you're going to spend weeks on a difficult colour by numbers, don't do it at a flat kitchen table. Your neck will hate you. Use a tabletop easel. Angle the work so your spine stays neutral.

And get a "daylight" lamp. Normal light bulbs have a yellow tint that messes with your ability to distinguish between dark blues and blacks. A 5500K-6500K bulb shows the true pigment. If you’re doing this under a 40-watt bulb in your living room, you’re playing on "Hard Mode" for no reason.

Common Pitfalls to Avoid

  • Ironing the Canvas: Most kits come folded. If you don't iron the creases out (on the back side, with a towel in between), your paint will pool in the valleys of the folds. It looks terrible.
  • Cheap Brushes: The brushes that come in the box are usually garbage. They splay out like a bad broom after three uses. Buy a set of synthetic "detail" brushes from an art store. Look for "0," "00," and "000" sizes.
  • Over-thinning: If your paint starts looking like watercolor, you've gone too far. Use a "Flow Improver" instead of just tap water. It breaks the surface tension of the paint without diluting the color density.

Taking Action: How to Start Your First "Hard" Kit

Don't jump into a Schipper Triptych on day one. You’ll burn out and throw the whole thing in the closet.

Start by choosing a kit with a "High Detail" rating but a limited color palette. A monochrome or sepia-toned image is actually harder in some ways because the shades are so similar, but a vibrant landscape with 30+ colors provides more visual feedback.

Your Checklist for Success:

  1. Select a reputable brand. Avoid the $5 "no-name" kits from massive overseas marketplaces; the numbers often don't match the paints, and the pigment is thin.
  2. Prep your space. Get an easel, a magnifying glass (preferably a wearable one), and a steady light source.
  3. Seal your canvas. Use clear gesso to ensure the paint glides on smoothly.
  4. Work top-to-bottom, left-to-right (if you're right-handed). This prevents your hand from smearing wet paint you just applied.
  5. Keep your pots sealed. Acrylic dries in minutes. Only open the color you are currently using. If the lid has paint on the rim, wipe it off so it can close airtight.

Once you finish a difficult colour by numbers, the sense of pride is genuine. It’s a physical artifact of your ability to focus in an age of constant distraction. Frame it. Put it on the wall. When people ask if you painted it, you can honestly say yes—one tiny, agonizing, beautiful dot at a time.

To move forward, pick an image that you actually want to look at for 40 hours. If you hate the subject matter, you’ll never finish the "confetti" sections. Buy a "Flow Improver" liquid from an art supply store to keep your paints manageable, and commit to just 15 minutes a day. Often, those 15 minutes will turn into two hours before you even realize the sun has gone down.