You’re walking down San Diego Avenue and the air smells like a confusing mix of expensive car exhaust and deep-fried churros. It’s early November. Most of the country is already arguing about when it’s socially acceptable to put up a Christmas tree, but here, things are different. Old Town is vibrating. There’s this specific energy that only happens during the Day of the Dead in Old Town San Diego, and honestly, if you haven’t seen the marigolds taking over the Plaza de las Armas, you’re missing the soul of the city.
It’s loud. It’s crowded.
But it’s also one of the few times San Diego feels like it’s actually reckoning with its own history instead of just selling it as a souvenir.
The Reality of the Altars (Ofrendas)
Most people think Dia de los Muertos is just "Mexican Halloween." It isn't. Not even close. If you go in expecting jump scares and candy, you’re going to be bored or, worse, disrespectful. The heart of the event lies in the ofrendas. These are the altars. In Old Town, they aren't just decorative; they are intensely personal.
Take the Casa de Estudillo, for example. It’s an adobe landmark from 1827. During the celebration, it hosts some of the most elaborate altars in the state. You’ll see photos of grandmothers, half-empty bottles of Tequila, and piles of pan de muerto. The idea is simple: the dead are coming back for a visit, and they’re hungry. You don’t give them "scary" stuff; you give them what they loved in life.
I once saw an altar with a single, dusty pack of Marlboro Reds and a very specific brand of spicy chips. It was hilarious and heartbreaking all at once. That’s the nuance of Day of the Dead in Old Town San Diego. It’s a celebration of life through the lens of loss.
The marigolds—or cempasúchil—are everywhere. Their scent is thick and earthy. Legend says the bright color and strong smell guide the spirits back to their families. In Old Town, the state park staff and local shop owners lay down thousands of these flowers. It creates this orange carpet that guides you from the Whaley House all the way down to the El Campo Santo Cemetery.
Navigating the El Campo Santo Cemetery
If you want the real experience, you have to walk to the cemetery. It’s on the outskirts of the main plaza. El Campo Santo is old. Like, 1849 old.
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Some of the graves are literally in the street. Back in the day, the city paved over part of the graveyard to make room for the horse-drawn carriages and later, cars. Now, there are brass markers in the asphalt of San Diego Avenue showing where the bodies are. It's a bit macabre, sure, but during the Day of the Dead in Old Town San Diego, these street-side graves get decorated too.
People leave sugar skulls on the sidewalk. They light candles.
The candlelight procession is the "big" event. It usually happens on November 2nd. It starts at the front of the Old Town San Diego State Historic Park and winds its way to the cemetery. It's slow. It's quiet, mostly. You’ll see people with their faces painted like calaveras (skeletons).
Don't Call it Face Paint
Actually, let's talk about the makeup. Most tourists call it "face paint," but it's more of a transformation into La Catrina. This isn't about looking like a zombie. It’s a nod to José Guadalupe Posada’s famous etching of a high-society skeleton in a fancy hat. It’s a satire of the idea that no matter how rich you are, you end up the same as everyone else: a skeleton.
If you’re going to get your face painted at one of the booths in the park, be prepared to wait. And bring cash. It usually costs anywhere from 20 to 50 bucks depending on the detail. But honestly? It changes how you feel in the crowd. You aren't just an observer anymore; you're part of the ritual.
Where to Actually Eat Without Losing Your Mind
Look, Old Town is a tourist trap 360 days a year. During this festival? It's a pressurized tourist trap.
If you try to get a table at Casa de Reyes or Old Town Mexican Cafe on the day of the procession, you're looking at a two-hour wait. Minimum. Instead, grab some street food. Look for the stalls selling champurrado. It’s a chocolate-based atole, warm and thick, made with corn masa. It’s the ultimate comfort food when the sun goes down and the San Diego marine layer starts rolling in.
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For something more substantial, head a block or two away from the main plaza. There are smaller spots on Congress Street that don't get as slammed.
- The Tortillas: You’ll see the ladies making tortillas in the windows. It’s a gimmick, but the tortillas are actually good. Buy a bag of the thick flour ones. Eat them plain while they're hot.
- The Tequila: El Agave has one of the biggest tequila collections in the country. It's upstairs and feels like a library, but for booze. It’s a good place to escape the noise for an hour.
The Commercialization Debate
We have to address the elephant in the room. Some people feel like Day of the Dead in Old Town San Diego has become too "Disney-fied."
There are plastic skulls made in China. There are "Day of the Dead" themed dog outfits. It can feel a bit much. However, if you talk to the local Chicano artists who have been setting up shops here for decades, they’ll tell you that the visibility matters. For a long time, this holiday was celebrated behind closed doors or only in Logan Heights. Bringing it to Old Town—the "birthplace of California"—is a statement of reclamation.
The event usually spans two days, November 1st (Día de los Inocentes, for children) and November 2nd (Día de los Muertos). The first day is usually a bit calmer. More families. More focus on the tradition. The second day is the party.
Logistics: How Not to Hate Your Life
Parking is a nightmare. Don't even try. The main lot fills up by 10:00 AM.
The Green Line trolley is your best friend. It drops you off right at the Old Town Transit Center. From there, it’s a three-minute walk into the heart of the park. If you must drive, park at the Pechanga Arena or further down in Mission Valley and take the trolley in. Your blood pressure will thank you.
What to Bring
- Layers: San Diego is famous for being 75 degrees at noon and 55 degrees at 6:00 PM.
- Photos: Many public altars allow you to leave a small photocopy of a loved one. Don't leave an original; it might get lost or rained on.
- Respect: This is a festival, but it's also a funeral rite. If you see someone crying at an altar, don't shove a camera in their face.
The market stalls in the plaza are great for finding authentic folk art. Look for the Oaxacan wood carvings (alebrijes). They aren't cheap, but they are the real deal. You’ll also find plenty of papel picado—the cut-paper banners that string across the streets. They represent the element of air and the fragility of life. One gust of wind and they tear. That's the point.
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Beyond the Main Plaza
While the state park is the epicenter, don't ignore the shops along San Diego Avenue. Places like Bazaar del Mundo go all out with their decorations. The gardens there are usually filled with massive skeletons made of paper-mâché. It’s a great spot for photos that aren't just the same "I'm standing in front of a sign" shots everyone else has.
The Whaley House, famously one of the most haunted houses in America, usually does something special too. They lean into the ghost story aspect, which is a bit different from the traditional religious meaning of the day, but it fits the vibe of Old Town perfectly.
The Day of the Dead in Old Town San Diego isn't just one event; it’s a collection of dozens of small moments happening simultaneously. It’s the sound of a Mariachi band competing with a street performer playing a Spanish guitar. It's the sight of a three-year-old with a painted skull face eating a blue popsicle. It’s the smell of incense (copal) burning to purify the area.
It’s messy and beautiful.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
To get the most out of the experience, you need a plan that doesn't feel like a chore. Start your morning early—aim to be in Old Town by 11:00 AM. This gives you time to see the altars in the historic homes like Casa de Estudillo before the crowds reach peak density.
Take the trolley. Seriously. The Old Town Transit Center is right across the street, and it saves you an hour of circling for parking. Once you arrive, head straight to the visitor center to grab a map of the altars. There are usually over 40 of them scattered throughout the neighborhood.
If you want to participate in the candlelight procession, buy your candles early at one of the local shops. They often sell out by late afternoon. The procession typically starts around sunset near the entrance to the State Historic Park. Follow the crowd toward the El Campo Santo Cemetery, but stay on the sidewalks to avoid the traffic that still flows through the main thoroughfare.
For food, skip the sit-down restaurants during peak hours. Grab a tamale from a street vendor and find a spot on a bench to people-watch. If you're looking for a specific souvenir, the best deals on authentic Mexican crafts are usually found in the back corners of the shops away from the main plaza entrance.
Lastly, check the weather. The coastal breeze makes Old Town colder than you'd expect once the sun drops behind the hills. Bring a jacket so you can stay for the evening performances on the main stage, which often feature incredible folklorico dancers.