You’ve probably seen the photos. That dizzying, sapphire-blue backdrop of the Mediterranean framed by a spiky cactus and a terracotta rooftop. That's Côte d Azur Eze. It looks like a movie set. Honestly, when you first walk through the stone gates, it feels like one too.
But here is the thing: Eze is basically a "village-musée" now. Barely anyone actually lives in the medieval hilltop anymore. It’s a labyrinth of art galleries, souvenir shops selling lavender sachets, and two of the most expensive hotels on the planet. Yet, despite the crowds and the slightly polished "theme park" vibe, you still have to go.
Why? Because once you reach the Jardin Exotique at the very top, 427 meters above the sea, the view hits you like a physical weight. It is, without hyperbole, the most spectacular panorama on the French Riviera.
The Two Faces of Eze
Most people get confused about the geography. There isn't just one Eze. You’ve got Eze-sur-Mer (the beach part) and Eze-Village (the hilltop part). They are connected by a thin, rocky umbilical cord called the Nietzsche Path.
If you take the train, you land at the bottom. If you take the bus from Nice or Monaco, you land at the top. Don't make the mistake of thinking you can just "stroll" between them in flip-flops. It is a steep, 45-minute slog that will make your calves scream. Friedrich Nietzsche used to hike this trail while writing "Thus Spoke Zarathustra," supposedly using the physical struggle to find philosophical clarity. Personally, I just find it's a good way to justify a three-course lunch later.
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What Everyone Gets Wrong About the Exotic Garden
The ruins of the 12th-century castle are the highest point of the village, but they aren't the main event anymore. After World War II, the mayor decided to turn the rubble into a botanical garden.
Le Jardin Exotique is why you pay the 8 euro entry fee (as of early 2026). It's not just about the succulents. The garden is split into a south side with cacti and agaves and a north side with Mediterranean flora. Scattered among the plants are "Earth Goddess" sculptures by Jean-Philippe Richard—slender, clay-colored figures that look out over the sea.
Pro Tip for the Garden:
Go early. I mean 9:00 AM sharp. By noon, the narrow paths are choked with tour groups, and trying to get a photo without a selfie stick in the frame becomes a competitive sport. There is a "contemplation area" with wooden lounge chairs near the waterfall. If you get there before the crowds, it’s the quietest spot in the whole village.
The Luxury Bubble: La Chèvre d’Or and Château Eza
If you want to feel poor, just walk past the entrances of these two hotels. La Chèvre d’Or is a legend. It’s not one building; it’s a collection of houses scattered throughout the village. They have two Michelin stars and a terrace that makes you feel like you’re floating in a private jet.
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Then there’s Château Eza. It was once the residence of a Swedish prince. Their restaurant has one Michelin star and some of the most sought-after balcony tables in Europe.
You don't have to stay there to see the view, but grabbing a drink at the bar is the "cheap" way to experience the high life. Be prepared for a 20-euro Coke. Kinda painful? Yeah. Worth it for the 180-degree view of Cap Ferrat? Also yeah.
The Perfume Secret at the Foot of the Hill
Down at the base of the village, near the bus stop, you’ll find the Fragonard and Galimard perfume factories.
Most tourists treat these as a quick bathroom stop or a place to buy gifts. But the free 30-minute guided tours are actually fascinating. You see the laboratory where the "noses" (the master perfumers) work. Since Grasse is the perfume capital, these outposts in Eze are specialized. The Eze factory focuses heavily on soaps and cosmetics. You can even book a workshop to make your own scent, which is way more memorable than buying a "I Love the Riviera" magnet.
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Getting There Without Losing Your Mind
Transportation is the biggest hurdle for Côte d Azur Eze.
- The Bus (#82 or #602): This is the best way from Nice. The #82 leaves from the Vauban station. It’s cheap, but it gets packed. Like, "smashed against the window" packed.
- The Train: It drops you at Eze-sur-Mer. From there, you have to wait for the #83 bus to take you up the hill, or you hike the Nietzsche Path.
- Driving: Don't. Honestly. There is a small underground lot (Parking Général de Gaulle), but in the summer, it’s full by 10:00 AM.
If you’re coming from Monaco, the #602 is your best bet. It’s a short 20-minute ride, and the views along the Moyenne Corniche road are world-class.
Real Talk: Is It Worth the Hype?
Eze is beautiful, but it can feel a bit hollow. Because it’s so perfectly preserved, it lacks the "lived-in" grit of places like Nice or even Antibes. It’s a postcard that came to life.
If you're looking for authentic French local life, you won't find it here. You’ll find tourists. Lots of them. But there is a reason they all flock here. The way the golden stone of the Église Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption glows at sunset is something you don't forget. The church itself is a weird, bright ochre yellow—you can't miss it—and the interior is surprisingly quiet compared to the street bustle.
Your Action Plan for Eze
- Wear real shoes. The cobblestones are slick and uneven. If you wear heels, you’re going to have a bad time.
- Pack water. Prices in the village boutiques are inflated. Buy a bottle in Nice before you hop on the bus.
- Check the bus schedule for the return trip immediately. The #82 doesn't run super late, and missing the last bus means a very expensive Uber or a dark hike down a mountain.
- Combined with Monaco. You can easily do Eze in the morning and Monaco in the afternoon. They are right next to each other.
- Visit the church. Most people skip the Église Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption. It’s free, Baroque, and offers a cool, dark respite from the sun.
Eze is a place of extremes. Extreme heights, extreme prices, and extreme beauty. Just embrace the touristy nature of it for a few hours.
Check the Lignes d'Azur website for the most recent 2026 bus times before you leave your hotel, as routes occasionally shift during the off-season. If the #82 is too crowded, look for the #602; it follows a similar path and often has more breathing room. Once you finish at the garden, head down to the Fragonard shop to try the "Sourire" fragrance—it's a local classic.