Walk down Royal Street in New Orleans and the air changes. It’s a mix of old stone, damp subtropical humidity, and the faint, lingering scent of Creole seasoning. You’ve probably seen the massive iron gates at 613 Royal Street. That’s the Court of the Two Sisters. Most people think it’s just another tourist trap where you pay for a buffet and a jazz band, but honestly, there’s a lot more going on behind those gates than just overpriced grits.
It’s old. Like, 1726 old.
That’s when the original structure was built, though back then it wasn’t a restaurant. It was the residence of Sieur Étienne de Perier, the governor of French Louisiana. If those walls could talk, they’d probably scream. The history of this patch of dirt is basically the history of New Orleans itself—fire, transition, commerce, and eventually, the Cooper sisters.
The Real Women Behind the Name
Everyone asks about the sisters. They weren't just figureheads. Emma and Bertha Camors were the real deal. In the late 1800s, they ran a "fancy and dry goods" shop here called "The Shop of the Two Sisters." They imported formal gowns, Parisian lace, and the kind of high-end perfumes that the Creole elite craved.
They were local celebrities. Imagine two sisters, always together, outfitting the city's wealthiest women during the Gilded Age. They owned the place from 1886 to 1906. When people talk about the "Court of the Two Sisters" today, they’re paying homage to a pair of female entrepreneurs who held their own in a male-dominated business world long before that was a common thing.
After the sisters, the property went through some rough patches. It wasn't always this polished. By the time the Fein family took over in 1963, the Quarter was a different beast. Joe Fein Jr. saw the potential in that massive courtyard. He turned it into the hospitality powerhouse it is now. His sons, Joe III and Jerry, eventually took the reins. It’s still family-owned. That’s a rarity in a world where corporate hospitality groups are gobbling up every historic landmark in sight.
The Jazz Brunch: Legend vs. Reality
Let's talk about the buffet. It’s the elephant in the room.
If you go to a local and ask where to get the "best" food in New Orleans, they might point you to a tiny hole-in-the-wall in the Marigny or a high-end spot like Commander's Palace. They might even roll their eyes at the mention of the Court of the Two Sisters. But here’s the thing—the Daily Jazz Brunch is a specific kind of magic that you just don't get elsewhere.
It’s huge. It’s loud. It’s messy in the best way.
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You have the classics: Turtle soup (the real stuff, thick and dark), Shrimp Etouffee, and Duck l'Orange. Then you’ve got the stations for omelets and Benedicts. Is it the most "cutting edge" culinary experience in the city? No. But it isn't trying to be. It’s a preservation of a very specific 20th-century New Orleans dining style.
The courtyard is the real star. It’s the largest in the French Quarter. Sitting under those sprawling wisteria vines while a trio plays "Do You Know What It Means to Miss New Orleans" isn't just a meal. It’s an atmosphere. The wisteria at the Court of the Two Sisters is legendary—thick, gnarled trunks that look like they've been there since the dawn of time. When they bloom, the whole place turns into a purple haze.
What You Should Actually Eat
If you’re going to do the buffet, don't just load up on scrambled eggs. That’s a rookie mistake. Go for the Creole jambalaya. It’s got that specific tomato-based red hue that distinguishes it from the brown Cajun versions found further west in Acadiana.
The Corn Whiskey Sauce on the bread pudding is another sleeper hit. It’s aggressive. It’s sweet. It’ll give you a sugar rush that lasts until dinner.
Also, look for the Beef Daube Glacé. It’s a cold, jellied beef dish that most modern palates find... confusing. But it’s an authentic piece of New Orleans history. It’s basically a savory aspic. You won’t find it on many menus anymore because it’s incredibly labor-intensive to make correctly. It’s a taste of the 19th century that most people skip over because it looks "weird." Try it anyway.
The Architecture of the 600 Block
The building itself survived the great fires of the late 1700s, or at least parts of the foundation did. The current structure is mostly a 1832 creation. Architecturally, it’s a classic French Colonial design with Spanish influences—think heavy timber, wide galleries, and that iconic courtyard layout.
Courtyards in the Quarter weren't designed for "brunch." They were functional. They were where the cooking happened (to keep the heat out of the main house), where the horses were kept, and where the cisterns collected rainwater. The Court of the Two Sisters kept that open space intact while others filled theirs in with additions or storage units.
The "Charm Gate" at the entrance is a bit of a local myth-maker. Legend says that if you touch the gate, it brings you good luck or ensures you’ll return to New Orleans. It’s a bit kitschy, sure. But look at the ironwork. It was forged in Spain and is a masterpiece of 18th-century craftsmanship. It’s not just a prop; it’s a historical artifact.
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Why the Reviews Are Always So Mixed
If you look at TripAdvisor or Yelp, the reviews for Court of the Two Sisters are all over the place. One person calls it the highlight of their life. The next says it was a crowded disappointment.
Why the disconnect?
Expectations.
If you go expecting a quiet, intimate, farm-to-table bistro experience, you’re going to hate it. It’s a high-volume operation. They serve hundreds of people a day. It can get loud. It can feel like a bit of a factory during peak hours in the spring.
But if you go for the spectacle, it delivers. It’s about the sun filtering through the vines, the sound of the trumpet reflecting off the brick walls, and the sheer variety of Creole food in one place. It’s a "Grand Dame" restaurant. It belongs in the same breath as Galatoire’s or Antoine’s, but with a more relaxed, buffet-style accessible vibe.
The Courtyard’s Secret Resident
Most people miss the "Devil’s Elbow."
In the back of the courtyard, there’s a bend in the layout that locals used to call the Devil’s Elbow. Legend has it that the pirate Jean Lafitte used to frequent this area. New Orleans is full of these "Lafitte slept here" stories, and most of them are nonsense. But for this specific spot, there’s actually some historical weight to the idea that the city’s more colorful, criminal elements used the complex for clandestine meetings. The Quarter was a maze of interconnected courtyards and alleys back then. It was a smuggler's paradise.
The Dinner Experience vs. The Brunch
People forget they serve dinner. While the jazz brunch gets all the headlines, the dinner service is a seated, white-tablecloth affair. This is where the kitchen actually gets to show off.
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The Trout Meunière Amandine is the gold standard here. It’s simple: fresh fish, brown butter, lemon, and toasted almonds. It’s a dish that hasn't changed in fifty years because it doesn't need to. If you want the atmosphere of the courtyard without the chaos of the buffet line, go at 7:00 PM on a Tuesday. It’s a completely different world.
Practical Advice for Your Visit
Don't just wing it. If it’s a weekend or a holiday (like Mardi Gras or Jazz Fest), you need a reservation weeks in advance. If you show up at noon on a Saturday without a booking, you’ll be standing on Royal Street staring at the gate like a lost tourist.
- The Dress Code: It’s "business casual," but this is New Orleans. People wear everything from suits to Hawaiian shirts. Just don't show up in a swimsuit or a t-shirt with something offensive on it and you’ll be fine.
- Timing: Go early. 9:00 AM or 10:00 AM for the brunch is much more peaceful than the 12:30 PM rush. The band is fresh, the food is piping hot, and you can actually hear yourself think.
- The Seating: Ask for the courtyard. The indoor dining rooms are nice and air-conditioned, but you’re there for the outdoor experience. If it’s raining, they have awnings, but the "full sun" spots are the ones you want for photos.
- The Gratuity: Often, for larger parties, they’ll include it automatically. Check your bill. Don't be the person who tips 40% by accident because you didn't read the fine print.
Navigating the "Tourist Trap" Label
Is it a tourist trap? Sorta. But in New Orleans, the line between "tourist trap" and "historic institution" is incredibly thin.
Places like Court of the Two Sisters survive because they provide a bridge to a version of the city that is slowly disappearing. As the Quarter becomes more gentrified and filled with chain stores, these family-owned massive estates are the last line of defense for the old-school Creole aesthetic.
You pay for the history. You pay for the maintenance of a 300-year-old building. You pay for the live music.
If you want the cheapest meal in town, go to a gas station and get a po-boy (which is actually a great idea, honestly). But if you want to sit in a place where Spanish governors and Parisian dressmakers once walked, you go to the Court of the Two Sisters.
Actionable Steps for Your New Orleans Trip
- Book through their official site: Avoid third-party booking apps if possible to ensure your courtyard seating request actually gets seen by the maître d'.
- Check the weather: If a cold front is coming through (it happens even in Louisiana), the courtyard can get chilly. Bring a light jacket; the stone stays cold long after the sun comes out.
- Walk the perimeter: After your meal, walk all the way through to the Bourbon Street entrance. The restaurant actually spans the entire block from Royal to Bourbon. The difference between the quiet elegance of the Royal Street entrance and the neon chaos of the Bourbon Street exit is the ultimate New Orleans juxtaposition.
- Order the Mint Julep: They make a surprisingly strong one. It’s the classic courtyard drink for a reason. Sip it slowly while the jazz band plays.
- Look at the names on the walls: There are plaques and photos throughout the indoor hallways that detail the family history. It’s a mini-museum if you take five minutes to actually look at it.
The Court of the Two Sisters isn't just a restaurant. It’s a 19th-century time capsule wrapped in a 21st-century business model. It’s loud, it’s vibrant, and it’s quintessentially New Orleans. Go for the history, stay for the bread pudding, and don't forget to touch the gate on your way out. You’ll probably want to come back.