You know that feeling when you see a pair of pants that looks like they were sewn together by someone who was half-asleep but also a literal genius? That’s Rei Kawakubo’s magic. Honestly, Comme des Garçons shorts aren't just clothes; they’re a weird, beautiful rebellion against the idea that your legs need to look "normal" or "athletic."
If you’ve ever walked through Dover Street Market, you’ve probably seen them. Some are comically wide. Others have raw edges that look like they’re fraying in real-time. They aren't trying to be your favorite gym shorts. They're trying to make a point.
The Architecture of a Weird Pair of Shorts
Kawakubo started Comme des Garçons in Tokyo back in 1969, and since then, she’s basically been thumbing her nose at Western beauty standards. When people think of shorts, they think of utility—pockets, breathability, a length that doesn't make you look too short or too tall. Kawakubo doesn't care about your proportions.
She cares about volume.
Take the Comme des Garçons Homme Plus line. These are the "runway" pieces. You’ll find shorts there made of heavy wool gabardine that hold their shape like a piece of origami. They might have a dropped crotch that hits your knees, or they might be so high-waisted you can tuck a sweater into them without looking like a 1950s gym teacher. It's about the silhouette, which is often bulky and "anti-fit."
The "anti-fit" philosophy is what makes these pieces so polarizing. Traditional tailoring tries to follow the lines of the human body. CDG does the opposite. It creates a new shape around the body. When you wear these shorts, you aren't showing off your legs; you're carrying around a piece of architectural fabric.
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The Sub-Labels: Knowing Your CDG
It’s easy to get confused because there are like, twenty different CDG lines. If you're looking for those shorts with the little red heart with eyes, that’s Comme des Garçons Play. Those are basically high-end basics. They’re usually made of a decent French Terry or a poly-blend, and they look like something you’d actually wear to get coffee. They’re the "entry-level" drug.
But then you have Comme des Garçons SHIRT. This line is obsessed with construction. You’ll see shorts here that use "deconstruction"—maybe the pockets are on the outside, or the seams are inverted. They love using poplin and patchwork. It feels a bit more playful and colorful than the main lines.
Then there’s Junya Watanabe, who was Kawakubo’s protégé. His shorts often lean into "workwear" or "Americana" but twisted. You might see denim shorts with complex triple-stitching or cargo pockets that are way too big to be practical but look incredible because of the way they hang.
Why Do People Pay $400 for These?
It’s a fair question.
Price is always the elephant in the room with Japanese luxury. A lot of it comes down to where it’s made. Most of the high-end Comme des Garçons shorts are manufactured in Japan. The textile industry there is legendary for its "small batch" approach. We’re talking about fabrics that are dyed using traditional methods or woven on old looms that give the material a texture you just can’t get from a mass-production factory in a different country.
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There is also the "intellectual" factor. Wearing CDG is a signal. It tells people you know about fashion history, that you appreciate the "Broken Bride" or "Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body" collections from the past. It’s a secret handshake for nerds who like clothes.
I remember seeing a guy in Soho wearing a pair of the oversized CDG Homme Plus shorts from the Spring/Summer 2021 collection. They were white, mid-calf length, and incredibly stiff. He looked like he was wearing a structural bell. Most people probably thought he looked ridiculous. But in the context of avant-garde fashion, he was the coolest person on the block because he was comfortable in something that actively rejected "flattering" aesthetics.
How to Style the "Unstylable"
If you buy a pair of these, don't try to make them look normal. You'll fail.
If you have wide-leg Comme des Garçons shorts, lean into the volume. Wear a big, boxy tee. Don't tuck it in unless the shorts have a really interesting waistband. If the shorts are cropped and narrow, try a long-line shirt that peeks out from underneath.
The footwear is also non-negotiable. CDG has a long-standing partnership with Nike and Salomon. A chunky sneaker—like the CDG x Nike Air Max 97 or a pair of XT-6s—usually balances out the weird proportions of the shorts. If you wear slim, low-profile shoes, your feet will look tiny, and your legs will look like toothpicks sticking out of a muffin. It’s all about visual weight.
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Materials Matter More Than You Think
- Wool Gabardine: This is the CDG staple. It’s durable, holds a crease perfectly, and looks expensive even when it’s wrinkled.
- Polyester Jersey: Often found in the Homme Plus or Black CDG lines. It gives off a slightly sporty, slightly "Matrix" vibe. It drapes heavily, which is great for dropped-crotch styles.
- Cotton Poplin: Mostly in the SHIRT line. It’s crisp, cool, and perfect for summer, though it wrinkles if you so much as look at it.
Common Misconceptions About the Brand
People often think CDG is just the "Heart Brand" (CDG Play). That's a mistake. The Play line is the commercial engine that funds the weird stuff. If you only look at the heart logo shorts, you’re missing the actual soul of the brand. The "real" CDG is the stuff that makes you tilt your head and go, "How do I even put my legs through that?"
Another myth: you have to be skinny to wear them. Honestly, because CDG is so focused on volume and hiding the natural shape of the body, it’s actually one of the most inclusive "high fashion" brands for different body types. The clothes create their own shape. You don't have to provide the shape yourself.
The Resale Value Factor
If you’re worried about spending half a month’s rent on shorts, look at the secondary market. Sites like Grailed or Vestiaire Collective are full of archival Comme des Garçons shorts. The beauty of Kawakubo’s work is that it’s "seasonless." A pair of shorts from 2012 looks just as relevant today as it did back then because they were never following trends to begin with. They were doing their own thing.
Buying used is also a great way to find the "Black Comme des Garçons" line, which is a bit more affordable and focuses on—you guessed it—black garments. These often have great textures like crushed velvet or synthetic leather.
Practical Steps for Your First Pair
If you’re ready to dive in, don’t just buy the first thing you see on a website. These pieces fit weirdly.
- Check the Rise: CDG shorts often have an incredibly long rise. If you aren't used to a dropped crotch, it can feel like you’re wearing a diaper at first. Measure your favorite pair of pants and compare the rise.
- Look at the Fabric Composition: Synthetic blends in Japanese fashion aren't "cheap." They are often used for specific structural reasons. Don't be afraid of 100% polyester if it's from CDG; it's probably been treated to look and feel like something completely different.
- The "Sizing" Gamble: Japanese sizing (S, M, L) is generally smaller than US sizing. However, since the cuts are so oversized, a "Small" might actually fit like a "Large" in the waist. Always check the actual waist measurement in inches or centimeters.
- Visit a Store: If you can, go to a physical shop. Feeling the weight of the gabardine or the stiffness of the starched cotton is the only way to "get" why people obsess over this brand.
In the end, Comme des Garçons shorts are for people who are bored with the status quo. They are for the days when you want to feel like a walking piece of art rather than just another person in the crowd. They are impractical, occasionally confusing, and often expensive—but they are never, ever boring.
To start your collection, look for the "Homme" line (not Homme Plus) for more wearable, classic silhouettes that still have that Japanese tailoring edge. If you want to go full avant-garde, wait for the seasonal sales at retailers like SSENSE or Dover Street Market, where the more experimental Homme Plus pieces often get deep discounts because they're too "weird" for the general public. Stick to the black or navy wool versions for maximum versatility; they’ll last a decade and never go out of style because they were never "in" style to begin with.