You’ve seen the Rock. Everyone sees the Rock. It’s tucked under that massive granite canopy, looking a bit smaller than most people expect, surrounded by tourists taking selfies. But if you turn your back to the harbor and look up, there’s a rise of land that holds a much heavier weight. Cole's Hill Burial Ground isn't just a hill with a view; it’s basically the site of a 17th-century tragedy that almost ended the Plymouth colony before it even started. Honestly, if you visit Plymouth and skip the climb up those stairs, you’re missing the actual heart of the story.
It’s quiet up there.
The wind usually whips off the Atlantic, hitting the sarcophagus at the top of the hill first. Most people don't realize that under that stone monument lie the actual remains of the Pilgrims who didn't survive that first brutal winter of 1620-1621. We aren't talking about a few elderly folks. We’re talking about nearly half of the Mayflower’s passengers.
The Secret Graveyard of 1621
Imagine being one of the survivors. You’re starving, weak, and watching your friends and family die one by one. But you can't let the local Wampanoag people know how much your numbers are dwindling. You’re afraid that if they see how few able-bodied men are left, the colony will be vulnerable. So, what do you do?
You bury your dead in the dark.
The Pilgrims used Cole's Hill Burial Ground as a secret cemetery. They didn't use headstones. They didn't leave markers. Instead, they leveled the graves and planted corn over them to hide the evidence of their losses. It’s a grim thought—walking over a field of corn, knowing your wife or brother is just a few feet beneath the soil. Historians like Nathaniel Philbrick, who wrote Mayflower, have detailed just how desperate this situation was. Out of the 102 passengers who landed, only 52 lived to see the first Thanksgiving.
The hill was named after James Cole, who arrived later and built a tavern nearby, but its legacy was cemented long before he opened his doors. It’s a National Historic Landmark now, but back then, it was just a ridge of desperation.
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What’s Actually Inside the Sarcophagus?
In the 18th and 19th centuries, heavy rains and road construction started unearthing bones on the hill. It wasn't some organized archeological dig; it was nature and progress forcing the past back to the surface. In 1855, workers laying water pipes found several skeletons. Some were identified as Caucasian based on the skull structure, confirming they were the lost settlers.
For a long time, these remains were scattered or kept in various local collections. It wasn't until 1921, the 300th anniversary of the landing, that the General Society of Mayflower Descendants commissioned the granite sarcophagus that sits there today.
Inside? It’s a mix.
It contains the bones recovered from those various excavations over the years. It’s a communal tomb. There’s something deeply moving about the fact that they are all back together now, looking out over the water where the Mayflower once sat at anchor. If you read the inscription, it lists the names of those believed to have died that first winter—names like White, Mullins, and Tilley. Families were wiped out. The Mullins family, for instance, lost everyone except Priscilla, who later famously married John Alden.
Why the Location Matters
Geographically, Cole's Hill Burial Ground is the highest point right on the shore. It’s tactical. From up there, you can see the entire harbor. The Pilgrims chose it because it gave them a vantage point.
- They could see incoming ships.
- They could monitor the shoreline.
- It provided a natural defense barrier for the houses they eventually built on Leyden Street.
But the hill has changed. Over the centuries, erosion has eaten away at the face of the hill. What we see now is a stabilized version of the landscape. Standing there today, you’re looking at a manicured lawn, but try to strip that away in your mind. Replace the paved streets with mud and the statues with a few hovels made of hand-hewn timber. It’s a lonely place.
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The Statues You Can't Miss
While the sarcophagus is the centerpiece, the hill is also home to the massive bronze statue of Massasoit, the Great Sachem of the Wampanoag. It was created by Cyrus Dallin. It stands as a reminder that the Pilgrims didn't survive that first year on their own. Without the alliance with Massasoit and the practical help from Squanto (Tisquantum), Cole's Hill Burial Ground would have likely become the final resting place for every single person on that ship.
It’s an interesting juxtaposition. You have the monument to the English dead on one side and the monument to the Indigenous leader who kept the survivors alive on the other. It’s a complicated, layered history. It’s not just "Pilgrims and Indians eating turkey." It’s about survival, grief, and a very fragile peace.
Common Misconceptions About the Hill
People often get confused about where everyone is buried. If you’re looking for the famous "Old Burial Hill" with the ornate slate headstones and the creepy winged skulls, that’s actually Burial Hill, which is a bit further inland and much higher up.
- Cole's Hill: First winter only. Secret graves. No original headstones.
- Burial Hill: Later graves (post-1622). Official cemetery. Elaborate markers.
Some tourists think the Pilgrims are still buried under the cornfield. They aren't. Most of the remains that were found were moved into the sarcophagus or are still technically lost to erosion and time. The "cornfield" is long gone, replaced by the grass and the monument.
Visiting Today: A Different Perspective
When you visit, don't just snap a photo of the statue and leave. Walk to the edge of the railing. Look down at the replica of the Mayflower II. Think about the fact that the people buried under your feet spent months in the dark, damp hold of that ship, only to die within sight of the shore.
It sorta puts your own bad day into perspective, doesn't it?
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The hill is free to visit. It’s a public park. You can go at night, which I actually recommend if you want to feel the weight of the place without the school groups running around. The streetlights from the harbor cast long shadows, and the sound of the water is constant. It’s probably the closest you’ll get to the atmosphere of 1621.
Essential Details for Your Visit
If you’re planning a trip to see Cole's Hill Burial Ground, here are a few things to keep in mind:
- Location: Directly across from Plymouth Rock (Water Street). You can't miss it.
- Accessibility: There are several flights of stairs, but there is also a paved incline if you walk around the side near Leyden Street.
- Timing: Early morning or sunset provides the best light for photos of the Massasoit statue.
- Context: Visit the Pilgrim Hall Museum first. Seeing the actual belongings of the people who died—their bibles, their pots, their swords—makes the hill much more personal.
Honestly, the hill is a place for reflection. It’s the "why" behind the "where." Plymouth Rock marks the arrival, but Cole’s Hill marks the cost of staying.
How to Experience Cole's Hill Like an Expert
To get the most out of a visit to this historic site, you need to look beyond the granite. Start at the bottom of the hill at the Rock, then slowly walk up the stairs, noticing how the vista opens up. Once you reach the sarcophagus, take a moment to read the names. These aren't just historical figures; they were people who took a massive gamble and lost their lives for it.
After you’ve spent time at the sarcophagus, walk over to the Massasoit statue. Look at the direction he's facing. He’s looking out over the land his people inhabited for thousands of years before the Mayflower was even a blueprint. This dual perspective is what makes Cole's Hill Burial Ground such a potent site.
If you have time, head over to the Plymouth Antiquarian Society or talk to one of the guides from Plimoth Patuxet (formerly Plimoth Plantation) who often hang around the waterfront. They can give you the nitty-gritty details about the specific families buried there. For instance, did you know that the first governor, John Carver, is among those believed to be buried on the hill? He died in the spring of 1621, likely from heatstroke or exhaustion, shortly after the first winter ended.
Next Steps for Your Plymouth History Tour
- Check the Tide: The view from the hill is significantly more impressive at high tide when the harbor looks full and daunting.
- Combine with Burial Hill: After visiting Cole's Hill, walk up Leyden Street (the oldest continuously inhabited street in the British colonies) to Burial Hill to see how the colony’s burial practices evolved once they no longer had to hide their dead.
- Read the Signage: The National Park Service and local historical societies have placed plaques around the perimeter that explain the erosion control and the discovery of the remains in the 1800s.
- Support Preservation: Consider a small donation to the Pilgrim Society or the General Society of Mayflower Descendants, as they are the ones who maintain the monuments and ensure the hill doesn't slide into the ocean.