Why Chunky Highlights on Curly Hair Are Making a Massive Comeback (and How Not to Mess Them Up)

Why Chunky Highlights on Curly Hair Are Making a Massive Comeback (and How Not to Mess Them Up)

The 90s called, but honestly, we’re not giving the look back. It’s funny how fashion works. One minute we’re obsessing over seamless balayage that looks like you spent exactly four minutes in the sun, and the next, we’re craving high-contrast, bold, unapologetic ribbons of color. We are talking about chunky highlights on curly hair. It’s a polarizing look, sure. Some people hear "chunky" and immediately flash back to Kelly Clarkson’s American Idol era or Ginger Spice’s iconic (but let’s be real, slightly chaotic) streaks. But the 2026 version? It’s different. It’s sophisticated.

Texture changes everything. When you put thick slabs of color on pin-straight hair, it can look a bit like a barcode if the stylist isn't careful. On curls, though? It’s a whole different game. The natural coil and bounce of the hair break up those heavy lines. It creates this 3D effect that actually makes your curls look more defined rather than just one big mass of dark or light.

If you’ve been feeling like your curls look a bit "flat" lately, this might be why you’re seeing these bold streaks all over your feed. People are tired of subtle. We want drama.

The Science of Why Chunky Highlights on Curly Hair Actually Work

Most people think highlights are just about changing the color. Wrong. It’s about light reflection. If you have dark, curly hair, the shadows created by the curls can make the hair look denser and less "mobile." By introducing chunky highlights on curly hair, you are essentially "mapping" the hair.

Think about the architecture of a ringlet. You have the "hill" (the part that sticks out) and the "valley" (the part that tucks in). Professional colorists like Christin Brown, who is famous for her "Luna Method" of curl painting, often talk about placing color specifically where the light would naturally hit the hair. When these sections are thicker—hence the "chunky" label—the color doesn't get lost in the shuffle.

If you do tiny, thin babylights on tight 4C coils, the color basically disappears the second the hair shrinks. You end up with a muddy, hazy look that just looks like your hair is dry or frizzy. You need that "chunk" to maintain the integrity of the color's visual impact. It’s basically the difference between drawing with a fine-liner and a thick Sharpie. Both have their uses, but one is meant to be seen from across the street.

Stop Calling Them Skunk Stripes

Let’s address the elephant in the room. The fear of looking like a skunk.

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Modern chunky highlights aren't just haphazardly placed. We’re seeing a massive shift toward "Money Piece" framing and "Ribboning." Ribboning is a technique where the stylist picks up an entire curl group—the way it naturally clusters—and coats it in lightener from mid-shaft to ends. This ensures that as your hair moves, the color moves with the curl. It doesn't look like a stripe; it looks like a glow.

Take a look at someone like Tracee Ellis Ross or even the recent red carpet looks from stars who are embracing their natural texture. They aren't doing tiny highlights. They are doing bold, honey-toned or platinum pieces that frame the face. It’s deliberate.

Why the 2000s Version Failed (and why we're better now)

  1. Bleach Technology: Back in the day, we were using high-volume developers that basically ate the hair. Now, with bond builders like Olaplex or K18, we can get that high contrast without sacrificing the curl pattern.
  2. Toning: The "orange" look of the early 2000s wasn't always intentional. It was a lack of proper toning. Today’s chunky highlights are usually finished with an acidic gloss to keep the hair shiny and the tone intentional—think toasted marshmallow, not Cheeto.
  3. Placement: We used to highlight in straight lines. Now, we highlight in "V" or "W" shapes to avoid harsh regrowth lines.

How to Talk to Your Stylist (Don't Just Say "Chunky")

If you walk into a salon and just ask for chunky highlights on curly hair, your stylist might have a mini heart attack. "Chunky" is a trigger word for many pros who spent the last decade trying to make everything look "natural."

Instead, use terms like "high-contrast ribboning" or "defined curl painting." Tell them you want the highlights to be at least two to three inches wide in some sections. Show them pictures. Seriously. What you think is chunky might be what they think is "medium."

You also need to discuss the "start point." Do you want the color to go all the way to the root? That’s a high-maintenance choice. Most people opting for this look in 2026 are going for a "lived-in" chunky vibe where the bold color starts an inch or two down. This avoids that awkward "growing out" phase where you look like you have a lid on your head.

The Maintenance Reality Check

Look, I’m gonna be honest with you. High-contrast looks require work.

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If you are lightening your curly hair significantly to get that chunky pop, you are altering the porosity of your hair. Curly hair is already naturally drier than straight hair because the oils from the scalp have a harder time traveling down the coiled hair shaft. Add bleach to that? You’re looking at a potential moisture crisis.

You'll need a routine. Deep conditioning isn't a "once in a while" thing anymore; it’s a weekly requirement. You’ll also want to look into "toning shampoos," but be careful. If you have chunky blonde highlights on dark brown hair, a purple shampoo is great for the blonde but can sometimes make the brown look dull. Sometimes a targeted mask is better.

Essential Kit for Bold Highlights:

  • Protein Treatments: To reinforce the bonds broken during the lifting process.
  • Leave-in Conditioner: Your new best friend.
  • Satin Bonnet: To prevent the friction that leads to frizz, which ruins the "clean" look of chunky highlights.

Not all chunky highlights are blonde. In fact, some of the coolest versions we're seeing right now are totally unconventional.

The "Copper Melt": This is huge. Instead of blonde, people are doing thick ribbons of burnt orange and copper through dark espresso hair. It looks like autumn in a haircut. Since the contrast is slightly lower than blonde-on-black, it's a bit more forgiving as it fades.

The "Skunk Face Frame": This is the boldest version. It’s two very thick, almost solid blocks of color right at the front of the face. It’s high fashion, very "e-girl" evolved, and looks incredible with a wash-and-go.

Pastel Chunky Streaks: Think lavender or mint green. Because curly hair has so much volume, these pops of color look like hidden gems tucked inside the hair.

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Common Mistakes to Avoid

Don't try this at home. Just don't.

I know the DIY bleach kits at the drugstore are tempting. I know TikTok makes it look easy. But curly hair is unpredictable. If you overlap bleach on a section that was already lightened, your curl could literally "go limp." This is called chemical damage, and unlike a bad haircut, you can't just wait a month for it to fix itself. You’ll be stuck with one straight, frizzy piece of hair in a sea of curls.

Another mistake? Ignoring your skin tone. Just because a "cool platinum" look worked on a celebrity doesn't mean it won't make you look washed out. A good stylist will tweak the "chunk" to be a warm gold, a neutral beige, or a cool ash depending on your undertones.

The Cultural Impact

There’s something empowering about chunky highlights on curly hair. For a long time, the "beauty standard" for curly hair was to make it as "tame" and "uniform" as possible. Bold highlights do the opposite. They scream "look at me." They celebrate the shape and the wildness of the texture.

It’s a rejection of the "clean girl" aesthetic that dominated the early 2020s. We’re moving into an era of "maximalism." We want big hair, big color, and big personality.

Ready to take the plunge?

If you're still on the fence, try a "test curl." Ask your stylist to do just one or two chunky ribbons in the back or underneath. See how your hair handles the lightener. See how you feel about the maintenance. Most people find that once they see how much the color "pops" their curl pattern, they come back three weeks later wanting the whole head done.


Next Steps for Your Hair Journey

  • Audit your current hair health: If your hair is currently breaking or feeling like "mush" when wet, wait at least six weeks and do intensive moisture treatments before booking your color appointment.
  • Find a curl specialist: Do not go to a stylist who primarily works on straight hair for this specific look. Check their Instagram for "texture" or "curly" tags.
  • Gather "No" photos: Sometimes showing a stylist what you don't want (e.g., "I don't want it to look like a zebra") is more helpful than showing them what you do want.
  • Budget for the aftercare: Factor in the cost of a high-quality sulfate-free shampoo and a bond-repairing treatment. The color is an investment; don't let it wash down the drain.