Cape Town is loud. It’s windy. It’s absolutely packed with tourists tripping over their own selfie sticks at the V&A Waterfront. But if you drive just past the main strip of Camps Bay, where the overpriced cocktails and neon lights live, you hit a literal forest. It feels weirdly misplaced. Right there, tucked between the Twelve Apostles mountain range and the Atlantic Ocean, sits the Camps Bay Retreat Hotel Cape Town.
It’s a sanctuary.
Honestly, calling it a "hotel" feels a bit like calling a vintage Porsche just a "car." It’s a four-acre private nature reserve that happens to have some very nice beds. You’ve probably seen the photos of the Glen Forest—that lush, green ravine that runs down to the ocean—well, this property basically owns a massive chunk of it. Most people visiting the Mother City stay at the big-name luxury spots downtown or the trendy boutiques on the promenade, but they’re missing the point. If you want to actually hear the birds instead of Uber hooting, this is the spot.
The Weird History of Earl’s Dyke
You can’t talk about this place without mentioning the manor house. It’s called Earl’s Dyke. It’s old. It has that thick-walled, Victorian-era gravity that you just don't find in modern construction. Back in the day, this was a private estate, and it still feels like you’re trespassing on some wealthy eccentric’s property—in a good way.
The architecture is a mashup. You’ve got the traditional Manor House with its high ceilings and creaky (but polished) wooden floors, and then you have the more modern Deck House and Sky Village. Some people hate the mix. They want everything to be "brand-consistent." But that’s the charm here. It feels like a lived-in estate that evolved over a century rather than a corporate project built in eighteen months.
The gardens are the real flex. While other hotels brag about their rooftop bars, the Camps Bay Retreat Hotel Cape Town has a mountain stream running through the backyard. There are waterfalls. There’s a rope bridge that honestly feels a bit Indiana Jones if you’ve had a glass of local Chenin Blanc. It’s private. You aren't sharing this space with the general public.
Why the Location Actually Matters
Look, Camps Bay is famous for the "Sunset Strip." Victoria Road is where everyone goes to be seen. It’s flashy. It’s great for people-watching but terrible for sleeping.
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The Retreat is situated just high enough on the hill to escape the noise. You’re about a ten-minute walk from the beach—maybe fifteen if you’re stopping to look at the Proteas. This matters because Cape Town’s wind, the "South Easter," can be brutal. Because the hotel is nestled in the Glen, you’re sheltered. It’s like a microclimate. You can sit on the deck and enjoy the view of the Atlantic while the people down on the beach are getting sand-blasted into another dimension.
The Room Situation: Where to Put Your Suitcase
Don't just book the cheapest room. Seriously. If you’re going all the way to South Africa, do it right.
- The Manor House: This is for the history nerds. Think chandeliers and fireplaces. It’s romantic, sure, but some might find it a bit "grandma’s house" if they prefer minimalist Swedish design.
- The Deck House: This is much more contemporary. You get these massive windows that basically bring the forest inside.
- The Sky Village: These rooms are higher up. The views of the ocean are better here, but you’ll be doing a bit more walking.
One thing to note—and this is something travel bloggers usually gloss over—the estate is hilly. There are stairs. There are winding paths. If you have mobility issues, you need to tell them upfront so they can tuck you into a room that doesn't require a hike to get to breakfast.
The Secret "Kitchen" and Dining Reality
Let’s be real: hotel food is usually a gamble. At Himitsu—the on-site restaurant—it’s a bit different. They lean heavily into the Asian-fusion vibe, specifically Japanese-inspired small plates. Chef Cheyne Morrisby (who is a big deal in the Cape Town food scene) really put his stamp on the culinary direction here.
The vibe isn't "fine dining" in the sense that you have to wear a tie. It’s "fine dining" in the sense that the ingredients are better than yours. You’re eating octopus or wagyu sliders while looking at the sunset over the ocean. It beats a burger in a hotel lobby any day of the week.
Breakfast is a slower affair. It’s not a massive, chaotic buffet with lukewarm eggs. It’s more curated. You sit on the terrace, you drink your coffee, and you watch the mist roll off the mountains. It’s one of the few places in Cape Town where you don't feel the "rush" to get out and start your tour.
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Is the Padel Court Really That Good?
Padel is taking over the world, and apparently, it’s taken over the Camps Bay Retreat Hotel Cape Town too. They have courts. It’s a thing now. Even if you aren't a "sports person," playing a game of padel surrounded by ancient trees and mountain peaks is a vibe.
But if you’d rather do absolutely nothing, the spa is the better move. They have these "nature wellness" treatments. Basically, they use the fact that they’re in a forest to make you feel like a woodland nymph. They use a lot of Africology products, which are local and smell like the actual bushveld. It’s not just a windowless room in a basement; you can hear the wind in the trees during your massage.
What No One Tells You (The Honest Truth)
Cape Town has its quirks. Loads of people worry about safety, and rightfully so. The beauty of the Retreat is the security. It’s a gated estate with 24/7 monitoring, so you can actually breathe.
However, because it’s a nature reserve, there are critters. You might see a guinea fowl. You might hear some strange noises at night. It’s nature. If you’re the kind of person who freaks out because a leaf fell on your balcony, maybe stay at a Hilton. But if you want to feel like you’re actually in Africa, this is it.
The Wi-Fi can be a bit spotty in the furthest corners of the garden. But honestly? If you’re sitting by the rock pool (which is filtered by the mountain stream, by the way) and you’re checking your emails, you’re doing life wrong.
How to Do Camps Bay Like a Local
If you’re staying here, don't just eat at the hotel. Walk down to the beach.
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- Skip the main beach: Go to Bakoven or Beta Beach for a swim. They are tiny, rocky, and way more private.
- The Pipe Track: This is a hiking trail that starts just up the road. It’s flat. It follows the old water pipes along the mountain. Best sunset view in the city, hands down.
- The Codfather: It’s a local institution for seafood. No menus. You just go to the counter and point at what looks good.
Getting Around
You don't need a rental car if you’re just staying in the city. Uber is incredibly cheap and efficient in Cape Town. However, if you want to head out to the Cape Winelands (Stellenbosch or Franschhoek), book a private driver. The hotel can set it up, but you’ll pay a premium for the convenience.
The drive from the airport takes about 30 to 45 minutes depending on the legendary Cape Town traffic. If you’re arriving during "load shedding" (South Africa’s scheduled power outages), don't panic. The Camps Bay Retreat Hotel Cape Town has backup systems. You won't be sitting in the dark, though the vibe might get a bit more "candlelit" than usual.
The Verdict on Value
Is it cheap? No. Is it worth it? Yes.
You’re paying for the land. You’re paying for the four acres of space in a city where every square inch is worth a fortune. Most hotels in this price bracket give you a fancy room and a view of a street. Here, you get a forest, a mountain, and the ocean.
If you want the "Grand Hotel" experience with a thousand staff members hovering over you, go to the Mount Nelson. If you want a cool, modern party vibe, stay at The Silo. But if you want to disappear for a few days and remember what it’s like to breathe fresh air, stay at the Retreat.
Real Actions You Should Take
- Book the "Romantic Turndown" even if you aren't on a honeymoon. They do a great job with the fireplaces in the Manor House.
- Request a room in the Deck House if you want the best balance of modern amenities and views.
- Take the secret path. There is a private gate that leads from the hotel grounds directly toward the beach area. It saves you a massive walk around the main road.
- Check the wind forecast. If the South Easter is howling, plan your "pool day" then, because the hotel’s location will keep you shielded while the rest of the city is a wind tunnel.
- Ask about the history. The staff usually have some great stories about the original owners of Earl's Dyke. It adds a layer of depth to your stay that you won't get from a brochure.
The reality of Cape Town is that it can be overwhelming. There is so much to see—Table Mountain, Robben Island, Cape Point, Boulders Beach. You’ll be exhausted by day three. Having a home base that feels like a quiet sanctuary isn't just a luxury; it’s a strategy for actually enjoying your vacation without needing another one the second you get home.
Stop looking at the standard hotels. Look at the forest. Stay there.