Kilian Hennessy has a bit of a reputation. If you’ve spent any time in the niche perfume world, you know the name is basically synonymous with luxury, decadence, and—more often than not—high-end booze. It makes sense, given his lineage is rooted in the LVMH empire and the legendary Hennessy cognac house. But when By Kilian Old Fashioned hit the shelves, it felt different. It wasn't just another "drunk" scent.
Fragrance enthusiasts are used to the syrupy, apple-pie warmth of Angels' Share. That scent dominated TikTok for years. It was everywhere. However, By Kilian Old Fashioned takes a sharp turn away from the gourmand sugar and heads straight into the highlands. It's woody. It's dry. It smells like a leather armchair in a room where someone just poured a very expensive glass of single malt.
It's honestly a vibe shift for the brand.
The Scottish Inspiration Behind the Scent
Most people assume an "Old Fashioned" perfume would smell like muddled cherries and orange bitters. That's the cocktail, right? But Kilian Hennessy didn't go for the American bourbon classic here. Instead, he looked toward the ruggedness of the Scottish Highlands. This fragrance is a collaboration with perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur, the same nose behind the iconic Straight to Heaven.
Lancesseur is a master of woods. In By Kilian Old Fashioned, she uses Wheat Absolute as a core note. It’s an interesting choice because it gives the perfume a grainy, slightly toasted texture that mimics the fermentation process of whiskey. You don't get that sticky sweetness found in cheaper "boozy" clones. You get the malt.
What’s actually inside the bottle?
The opening is sharp. It’s a blast of Davana and Davana essence, which has this weird, multifaceted profile—part apricot, part herbal, and very much like a fermented fruit. Some people find it medicinal at first. Honestly, give it five minutes.
Once that initial sharpness settles, the heart reveals the Cedarwood and Immortelle. Immortelle is a polarizing ingredient in perfumery. It can sometimes smell like maple syrup or curry powder, but here, it’s used with incredible restraint to provide a "golden" glow to the wood notes. It creates a dry, sun-baked earthiness that feels incredibly masculine but remains wearable for anyone who likes a bit of grit in their scent profile.
How it Compares to the Rest of the Liquors Collection
Kilian’s "The Liquors" collection is a heavy-hitter lineup. You have Angels' Share (Cognac), Roses on Ice (Gin), and Apple Brandy on the Rocks.
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- Angels' Share: This is the loud, sweet cousin. It’s cinnamon, vanilla, and praline. It’s a crowd-pleaser that screams "look at me."
- Old Fashioned: This is the quiet one in the corner. It’s much more sophisticated and understated. If Angels' Share is a night out at a club, By Kilian Old Fashioned is a late-night conversation in a private library.
- Apple Brandy: This one is crisp and cold. Old Fashioned is warm and textured.
If you’re choosing between them, think about your tolerance for sugar. If you hate sweet perfumes, By Kilian Old Fashioned is probably the only one in the collection you’ll actually like. It’s undeniably mature. It doesn't try to hide behind a cloud of vanilla.
Performance and Longevity: Does it Last?
Let’s be real. If you’re dropping nearly $300 on a bottle of perfume, you want it to last until the next morning.
By Kilian Old Fashioned is an Eau de Parfum, but it behaves more like a Parfum Extrait on some skins. Because it relies so heavily on resins and heavy woods (Styrax and Tolu Balsam in the base), it clings to the skin. It isn't a "room-filler" in terms of projection. It doesn't have that screechy synthetic sillage that burns people's noses. It stays within an arm's length, creating a scent bubble that feels intimate.
On fabric? It’s eternal. If you spray this on a wool coat, you’ll still smell the cedar and the faint graininess of the wheat a week later.
The Bottle Design
We have to talk about the glass. The Liquors collection bottles are inspired by art deco crystal tumblers. They are heavy. They feel like something your grandfather would have kept on a mahogany sideboard. The By Kilian Old Fashioned juice itself has a deep, amber-gold hue that looks exactly like a glass of Macallan. It’s purely aesthetic, sure, but in the world of luxury fragrance, the bottle is half the experience.
Is it worth the hype?
There's a lot of noise in the fragrance community about whether Kilian is "selling out" since being acquired by Estée Lauder. Some critics argue the newer releases lack the complexity of the early "Black Masterpiece" era.
I’d argue By Kilian Old Fashioned proves them wrong.
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It’s a complex, challenging scent that doesn't cater to the masses. It’s dry. It’s woody. It has a specific "dustiness" that reminds me of old books and cask-aging cellars. It’s a return to form for the house. It feels like a piece of art rather than a commercial product designed to win a "compliment battle" on YouTube.
The Best Ways to Wear By Kilian Old Fashioned
This isn't a gym scent. Don't do that.
It shines in the cold. When the air is crisp, the balsam and resins in the base of By Kilian Old Fashioned open up beautifully. It’s the ultimate "autumn/winter" fragrance.
- Evening Wear: Perfectly suited for a dinner date or a formal event. It projects an air of competence and calm.
- Layering: If you want to brighten it up, try layering it with a simple citrus scent or a light neroli. It adds a "sparkle" to the heavy woods.
- Office Friendly? Surprisingly, yes. Because it isn't overly sweet or cloying, it’s quite professional. Just don't go overboard with the sprays—three is usually plenty.
Misconceptions About the Scent
A common complaint online is that it "doesn't smell like an Old Fashioned cocktail."
That’s technically true. As mentioned earlier, it’s not the cocktail. It’s the components and the vibe of the whiskey-making process. If you go into this expecting a citrusy, sugary orange-zest scent, you’re going to be disappointed. You have to approach it as a woody-oriental fragrance that uses booze as a thematic anchor rather than a literal recipe.
Another misconception is that it’s strictly for men. While the wood and leather notes lean traditionally masculine, the Davana and the balsamic sweetness in the dry down make it incredibly chic on women. It’s genderless in the way a leather jacket is genderless. It’s about the attitude, not the anatomy.
Final Practical Insights for Potential Buyers
Before you pull the trigger on a full bottle, here are a few things you should actually do.
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First, get a 2ml sample. Never blind buy Kilian. The skin chemistry interaction with the wheat and davana notes can be unpredictable. On some people, it stays very green and herbal; on others, the balsamic base takes over.
Second, check the batch codes if you're buying from a discounter. While By Kilian Old Fashioned is a newer release, it’s always good practice to ensure you’re getting the authentic product, especially given how many "dupe" houses are currently trying to replicate the Liquors line.
Third, consider the refill. One of the best things about Kilian is that the bottles are meant to be kept for life. You can buy a 50ml bottle and then purchase the 50ml refill sets for a significantly lower price per ounce. It’s a rare moment of sustainability in the luxury world that actually saves you money in the long run.
If you love the smell of a high-end whiskey bar—the wood, the fermenting grain, the faint hint of expensive tobacco in the air—this is your scent. It’s a masterclass in textures. It’s dry, it’s sophisticated, and it marks a bold new chapter for the brand.
Actionable Steps for the Fragrance Enthusiast:
- Sample first: Use a decant service like ScentSplit or MicroPerfumes to live with the scent for three days before committing.
- Temperature test: Try it on a rainy day. The humidity brings out the "grainy" notes of the wheat absolute in a way that dry heat doesn't.
- Storage: Keep this bottle out of direct sunlight. The resins and natural oils in the Liquors collection can darken and change profile if exposed to UV rays over time.
This fragrance is a slow burn. It’s not a love-at-first-sniff for everyone, but for those who get it, it’s easily one of the best releases of the decade.