Death is expensive. Honestly, it’s ridiculously expensive. When you walk into a funeral home, you’re often met with a showroom of gleaming mahogany and velvet linings that cost more than a mid-sized sedan. It’s overwhelming. But here’s the thing: you can actually opt out of that high-pressure sales environment. People have been making their own burial vessels for centuries, and lately, there’s a massive resurgence in folks wanting to learn how to build a casket to reclaim some agency over the end-of-life process.
It isn't just about saving money, though that’s a huge part of it. It’s about the tactile nature of the work. Sawing, sanding, and joining wood provides a weirdly therapeutic way to process grief.
The legal reality of DIY burials
Before you even touch a miter saw, you need to know the law. It’s a common myth that you must buy a casket from a funeral director. You don't. The Federal Trade Commission’s "Funeral Rule" is your best friend here. It explicitly states that funeral homes must accept a casket provided by the customer, and they cannot charge you a "handling fee" for doing so. They might give you a bit of side-eye, but they legally have to take it.
State laws regarding "green burials" or home funerals vary wildly. For instance, in places like California or New York, the rules are fairly rigid regarding transportation, but the container itself just needs to meet basic requirements: it has to be rigid, leak-resistant, and made of combustible material if cremation is the plan.
Choosing your wood and materials
What are you building this for? If it’s for a traditional burial, you want something sturdy. Pine is the classic choice. It’s affordable, smells great, and it's easy to work with. If you're going for something high-end, cherry or walnut looks stunning, but be prepared for the weight. A solid oak casket is incredibly heavy. You’ll need six strong pallbearers, and even then, they’ll be straining.
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Avoid pressure-treated lumber. Just don't do it. The chemicals used to preserve that wood (like copper azole) aren't something you want leaching into the ground or being released in a crematorium. Stick to "natural" or "unfinished" boards.
For the bottom, you need thick stock. We're talking at least 1-inch thick. You don't want a structural failure during the processional. That’s the stuff of nightmares. Most DIYers use a simple "toe-pincher" design—that classic hexagonal shape—but a rectangular "box" style is much easier for a beginner to get right.
The basic steps of how to build a casket
First, you need measurements. The standard interior width of a commercial casket is usually about 23 to 24 inches. Length is typically 78 to 80 inches. If the deceased was taller or wider, you have to adjust. That's the beauty of DIY; you aren't stuck with "standard."
Start with the base.
Cut your floor boards and cleat them together from the underside.
Next, the sides. If you’re doing a rectangular box, it’s just four boards. But if you want those angled shoulders, you’ll be doing some tricky miter cuts.
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Pro tip: Use wood glue and screws. Relying on just one is a mistake. Countersink your screws and fill the holes with wood plugs or putty so they disappear. For the lid, you can go with a simple flat top, or a "split-lid" if you're planning an open-casket viewing. The split-lid requires a bit more finesse with hinges and support stays.
Finishing and interiors
You don't need fancy silk. In fact, many people building their own caskets prefer the "natural" look. A simple cotton or linen lining works wonders. You can use a heavy-duty stapler to attach the fabric to the interior walls.
For the bedding, skip the expensive "burial pillows." An old quilt or a favorite blanket from the deceased is far more meaningful. It adds a layer of personal history that a factory-made satin pillow just can't match.
Handles are the most overlooked part. Do not—I repeat, do not—buy cheap plastic handles from a big-box store. If a handle snaps while the casket is being carried, it's a disaster. Look for "swing-bar" hardware or, if you're going full DIY, use thick manila rope threaded through the sideboards with heavy knots on the inside. It looks rustic, it's incredibly strong, and it costs almost nothing.
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Practicality over perfection
It’s easy to get caught up in making every joint perfect. You might find yourself obsessing over a 1/16th-inch gap in a corner. Let it go. This is a vessel, not a piece of fine furniture meant to sit in a museum for a hundred years. The flaws are part of the story.
I’ve talked to woodworkers who spent weeks on a casket, only to realize they didn't account for the thickness of the lining, making it a tight fit. Always over-build the dimensions slightly. It’s better to have a few extra inches of space than not enough.
The environmental angle
If you're interested in a "Green Burial," the requirements are even simpler. Most green cemeteries require the casket to be fully biodegradable. No metal. No toxic glues. No synthetic finishes.
In this case, you’d use wooden dowels instead of screws. You’d use a simple flour-and-water paste or a natural hide glue. For the finish? Raw linseed oil or beeswax. It’s a very different way of building, focusing on how the object will eventually return to the earth. It’s poetic, honestly.
Next steps for your build
- Check local ordinances: Call a local funeral director or look up your state's "Funeral Board" website to confirm the specific requirements for home-built containers.
- Download a plan: Don't wing it. Sites like the North America Casket Bank or various woodworking forums offer free PDF templates.
- Source your lumber: Go to a local lumber yard instead of a chain store. You’ll get better quality wood and often better advice on which species will handle the weight.
- Test the weight: Once the box is built, put some heavy sandbags in it and lift it with a few friends. You need to know it’s solid before the actual day.
- Consider the finish: If you're staining the wood, give it at least a week to "off-gas" so the smell isn't overpowering in a small room during a service.