It is quiet. That’s the first thing you notice when you pull off the Hume Highway and into the gravel tracks of Belanglo State Forest. Most people driving between Sydney and Canberra don't even look at the exit. They see the sign, feel a slight chill, and keep their foot on the accelerator. It’s got a reputation. Everyone knows the names associated with this place—Ivan Milat, the backpacker murders, the grim discoveries of the early nineties. But if you actually spend time here, you realize the forest is struggling under the weight of a singular, dark identity that doesn't quite tell the whole story of what this land actually is today.
Belanglo is a working forest. It’s huge. We are talking about roughly 3,500 hectares of radiata pine plantation mixed with pockets of native Australian bush. Honestly, it's a bit of a maze. If you aren't careful, the fire trails start looking identical, and the tall, unnervingly straight rows of timber begin to feel like they’re closing in.
The heavy shadow of the nineties
You can't talk about Belanglo State Forest without acknowledging why it’s famous. Between 1989 and 1993, this was the site of one of Australia's most notorious crime sagas. The discovery of Kenneally and Walters by orienteers in 1992 changed the Southern Highlands forever. It wasn't just a news story; it was a collective trauma for the region.
People often ask why here?
The answer is brutally practical. The forest is accessible but incredibly secluded. It sits right on the edge of the main artery of the East Coast, yet once you are two kilometers deep into the pine, you are invisible. The soil is soft in places, making it "easier" for dark deeds, but the density of the trees is the real factor. Even today, if you wander off the main tracks, the silence is heavy. There is a specific kind of stillness in a pine plantation that you don't get in a gum forest. Native birds don't like the pines as much. There's less birdsong. It's just the wind whistling through the needles.
More than just a crime scene
It’s easy to get stuck on the macabre history. However, for the locals in Moss Vale, Berrima, and Sutton Forest, Belanglo is a recreational hub. It's weird, right? You’d think people would stay away.
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But life goes on.
On any given weekend, you'll see dirt bikes tearing through the mud. 4WD enthusiasts use the more rugged tracks to test their suspension. There are even designated camping areas like Dalys Clearing. It’s a massive, beautiful space if you can separate the landscape from the headlines.
The forest is managed by Forestry Corporation of NSW. They aren't there to maintain a memorial; they are there to grow timber. You will often see "No Entry" signs in certain blocks because of active logging. Harvesters move through, clearing massive swaths of pines, leaving behind a scarred, lunar landscape before the next cycle of planting begins. This constant cycle of growth and destruction gives the forest a shifting, ephemeral quality. A spot that felt claustrophobic and dark last year might be an open, sunny field this year.
The reality of visiting today
If you’re planning to visit, don't expect a tourist information center with brochures about serial killers. There isn't one. There is a small, understated memorial for the victims, but it’s not something the state promotes. It’s a place for reflection, not a "dark tourism" attraction.
Navigation is a nightmare. Seriously. Don't rely on your phone's GPS once you get deep into the trees. Reception drops out the moment you dip into the gullies. I've known experienced hikers who got turned around because the grid-like nature of the plantation rows creates a disorienting optical illusion. Every "street" looks like the last one.
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- Check the weather: The Southern Highlands gets biting cold. In winter, Belanglo can see frost that stays on the ground until midday.
- Fuel up: There are no services inside. Sutton Forest is your last chance for snacks or petrol.
- Mind the logs: Logging trucks have the right of way. They are big, they are fast, and they won't see your Subaru around a tight bend on a dirt track.
The ecological weirdness of the pines
One thing most people get wrong is thinking Belanglo is "natural" bush. It’s mostly an industrial crop. Radiata pine is an exotic species from California. It grows fast and straight. Because the trees are planted so close together, they block out almost all sunlight from the forest floor. This creates a "biological desert" in some sections where nothing else can grow.
But then, you hit the gullies.
The topography of Belanglo State Forest drops away into sandstone escarpments that lead toward the Nattai Wilderness. Here, the pines give way to ancient gums, banksias, and ferns. It is stunningly beautiful. This transition zone is where you’ll find the real heart of the NSW landscape. It’s a stark contrast to the rigid, artificial rows of the plantation.
Why the stigma persists
It’s been decades since the Milat trial, and yet the name Belanglo still carries a "cursed" reputation. It didn't help that another unrelated murder occurred there in 2010. It’s as if the forest has become a magnet for the worst parts of human nature in the public imagination.
But if you talk to the mushroom foragers who head there every autumn, they see it differently. Saffron milk caps and slippery jacks thrive under the pines. For them, Belanglo is a place of abundance. They wait for the first rains after a cold snap and head out with buckets. To them, the forest isn't a ghost story; it’s a pantry.
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It’s this duality that makes the place so fascinating. It is simultaneously a site of profound grief and a place of weekend fun. It’s an industrial site and a wilderness.
Practical Advice for the Curious
If you're going to go, go for the right reasons. Don't go looking for ghosts; go for the scale of the place.
- Vehicle choice: You can do the main fire trails in a 2WD if it’s been dry, but if there has been even a hint of rain, you want a 4WD. The mud in Belanglo is a thick, clay-heavy mess that will swallow a small car.
- Safety: Always let someone know which sector you are entering. The "Belanglo State Forest" is too broad a location for a search party. Give them a specific entry point, like the intersection of Belanglo Road and Dalys Road.
- Respect: Remember that for many families, this is sacred ground. It’s not a film set.
Basically, the forest is what you bring to it. If you go in looking for a horror movie, the shadows will look like people. If you go in looking for a quiet place to ride your bike or photograph the mist between the pines, you'll find one of the most atmospheric locations in New South Wales.
Taking the next step
Before you head out, download the Avenza Maps app and grab the official Forestry Corporation maps for the Southern Highlands. These work via GPS even when you don't have a signal, which is a literal lifesaver in the maze of the plantation. Check the Forestry Corporation website for any scheduled "hazard reduction burns" or active logging closures. These happen frequently and can ruin a trip if you haven't checked the alerts. Finally, if you are visiting the victim's memorial, bring nothing but respect; leave the site exactly as you found it.