Walk down Frith Street at 3:00 AM on a Tuesday. The rest of London is basically a ghost town, or at least a very expensive, silent version of one. But then you see it. The red and green neon glow. The smell of high-pressure steam and dark roast hitting the pavement. Bar Italia Frith Street isn't just a coffee shop; it's a survivor.
It’s been there since 1949. Lou and Caterina Polledri started this place when Soho was a completely different beast—grittier, louder, and way more Italian. Now, while the surrounding streets are filled with generic chains and "concept" bars that last six months, Bar Italia just keeps grinding. Literally.
The Gaggia and the Ghost of 1949
Most people walk in and see a narrow room with some old photos. They miss the point. Look at the floor. That linoleum has seen every subculture London has birthed in the last seventy years. Mod culture in the 60s? This was the headquarters. The 90s Britpop explosion? Same thing.
The espresso machine is a beast. They use a custom Gaggia that pulls shots with a thickness you just don't find in your local high-street latte factory. It’s loud. It’s hot. The baristas move with a kind of muscle memory that feels like performance art. You don’t come here for a "deconstructed flat white" with oat milk and a side of irony. You come for a "Caffè" or a "Cappuccino."
Honestly, the cappuccino here is a revelation for people used to the foamy, airy bubbles of modern chains. It’s dense. It’s structural.
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Why the Polledri Family Refuses to Change
The business is still in the family. That’s the secret sauce. In an era where private equity firms buy up heritage brands and gut them for parts, the Polledri family has kept the DNA of Bar Italia Frith Street intact.
They know that the value isn't just in the coffee beans—it’s in the clock on the wall. It’s in the "Rocky" memorabilia and the photos of famous patrons. If they painted the walls a trendy sage green or put in "industrial-chic" Edison bulbs, the magic would evaporate instantly. Soho residents and regulars would riot.
The 24-Hour Myth vs. Reality
People always talk about it being open 24/7. Technically, they close for a tiny window in the early morning for a scrub-down, but for all intents and purposes, it’s the North Star of Soho.
If you’re a night owl, you know the vibe shifts every couple of hours:
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- 7:00 AM: The early commuters and the night shift workers from the local hospitals grabbing a life-saving double shot.
- 11:00 AM: The media types from nearby Wardour Street having meetings that actually result in things getting made.
- 4:00 PM: The tourists who’ve finally found the "real" Soho after getting lost in Piccadilly Circus.
- 11:00 PM: The post-theatre crowd, buzzing with adrenaline and caffeine.
- 2:00 AM: The hospitality workers. This is my favorite time. Chefs, bartenders, and waiters from the best restaurants in London descend on Frith Street to decompress.
It’s a leveling experience. You might be sitting next to a world-famous director or a guy who just spent eight hours washing dishes. Nobody cares. Everyone is just there for the caffeine and the hum of the city.
More Than Just a Caffeine Kick
Let’s talk about the food because people sleep on the paninis. They aren't fancy. They aren't "artisanal sourdough with fermented kimchi." They are classic Italian sandwiches. Think mortadella, provolone, or maybe some spicy salami. They get pressed in the grill until the cheese is a molten hazard and the bread has those perfect charred lines.
And the cannoli? They’re legit. They have that crunch that only comes from being filled at the right time so the shell doesn't get soggy.
The Dave Stewart Connection
If you look at the walls, you’ll see plenty of mentions of Eurythmics star Dave Stewart. He even filmed a music video here. The place has always been a magnet for musicians. It’s not because it’s "cool" in a curated way. It’s because it’s private even though it’s public. In the corner of Bar Italia, you’re just another person in a leather jacket.
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There’s a famous song by Pulp called "Bar Italia." Jarvis Cocker nailed the feeling of the place—that "end of the night" desperation where you’re trying to make the evening last just a little bit longer. It captures that specific Soho melancholy that you can only feel when the sun is starting to come up and your heart is racing from too many espressos.
What Most People Get Wrong About Soho Coffee
The "Third Wave" coffee movement—the guys who talk about "notes of blueberry and jasmine"—sort of looks down on the dark, oily roasts of old-school Italian bars. They’re wrong.
Bar Italia isn't trying to be a laboratory. They are serving a traditional Italian roast. It’s bold. It’s bitter in the right way. It’s designed to be drunk standing up at the bar in about thirty seconds. If you sit there trying to "cupping" it like a professional taster, you’re doing it wrong. Just drink it. Feel the kick. Move on with your life.
How to Exist in Bar Italia Without Looking Like a Tourist
- Don't ask for a menu. There’s a board, but honestly, if you don’t know what you want, just keep it simple.
- Space is a premium. If it’s busy, don't hog a table for three hours with a laptop. This isn't a coworking space. It’s a high-turnover caffeine station.
- Cash is helpful. They take cards, obviously, it’s 2026. But having some coins for a quick espresso at the bar is the pro move.
- Watch the screen. They usually have Italian football or news playing on the TV at the back. It’s the heartbeat of the place.
The Future of Frith Street
Soho is changing fast. Rents are insane. Historic venues are being replaced by luxury flats and "experiential" retail. It’s easy to get cynical. But every time I walk past Bar Italia and see that neon sign flickering, I feel a bit better.
It’s a piece of London history that you can actually touch and taste. It’s not behind a velvet rope. It’s right there on the sidewalk. As long as the Polledri family keeps the Gaggia running, Soho still has a soul.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
- Timing: Go between 1:00 AM and 3:00 AM for the most authentic "Soho" atmosphere.
- Order: A "Marocchino" if you want something slightly decadent (it's basically espresso, cocoa powder, and milk foam).
- Seating: If the weather is decent, sit on the metal chairs outside. It’s the best people-watching spot in the entire city, period.
- Check the Blue Plaque: Look up before you go in. John Logie Baird gave the first public demonstration of television in the rooms above the cafe in 1926. This building was making history long before the coffee started flowing.
When you leave Bar Italia and step back out onto Frith Street, the cold London air hits you, but you’ve got that warmth in your chest. That’s the point. It’s a sanctuary. It’s a constant. In a city that never stops trying to be something else, Bar Italia is perfectly happy being exactly what it’s always been.