You’re standing at the corner of Princes Street. The wind is whipping off the Firth of Forth, and honestly, your ears are probably freezing because you forgot a beanie. You want luxury, but you don’t want that stuffy, "don't-touch-the-curtains" vibe that some of the old-school grand dames in the New Town project. This is exactly where Apex Hotel Waterloo Place enters the chat.
It isn't just another bed in a city full of them. It's a weirdly perfect blend of Georgian architectural ego and modern comfort. Built in 1819 as Edinburgh’s first large-scale purpose-built hotel, it has seen some things. If these sandstone walls could talk, they’d probably gossip about the Waterloo dinner celebrations or the countless weary travelers who have dragged their suitcases up from Waverley Station over the last two centuries.
The Location Trap and How to Avoid It
Most people visiting Edinburgh make a tactical error. They book something way out in Leith because it's "trendy," then spend forty minutes on a bus just to see the Castle. Or they stay right on the Royal Mile and realize, too late, that bagpipes at 7:00 AM are only charming for the first three minutes.
Apex Hotel Waterloo Place sits in that sweet spot. You’re at the east end of Princes Street. You’ve got Calton Hill—the best view in the city, hands down—literally in your backyard. You can walk to the train station in about four minutes if you don't mind a slight incline. It’s accessible. It’s central. It’s basically the cheat code for navigating the city without needing a PhD in Scottish geography.
Staying here means you’re close to the action but just far enough away from the screeching brakes of the tour buses to actually get some sleep.
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What’s Actually Inside?
Let’s talk about the rooms. Honestly, some city center hotels feel like you're sleeping in a glorified closet. Not here. Because it’s a historic building, the ceilings are high. Like, distractingly high. It gives the space a sense of scale that modern builds just can’t replicate.
The aesthetic is clean. Think greys, warm woods, and pops of color that don't hurt your eyes. They have these walk-in showers that actually have decent water pressure—a rarity in old European plumbing. You also get the "big" toiletries, which feels like a small win in a world of tiny, useless plastic bottles.
The Pool Situation
If you’re a swimmer, listen up. Most Edinburgh hotels claim to have "wellness facilities," which usually translates to a treadmill in a basement. Apex Hotel Waterloo Place has a legitimate indoor pool. It’s heated. It’s sleek. There’s a sauna and a steam room too. After walking 20,000 steps on Edinburgh’s cobblestones—which, let’s be real, are designed to destroy your ankles—soaking in that pool is less of a luxury and more of a medical necessity.
Yu Spa is the name of the facility. It’s surprisingly quiet. Even when the hotel is packed with Fringe Festival tourists or rugby fans, the spa usually feels like a secret.
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Food, Drinks, and Not Getting Ripped Off
Elliot’s is the on-site restaurant and bar. Look, hotel restaurants can be hit or miss. Usually, they’re overpriced and uninspired. Elliot’s manages to hold its own, mostly because it leans into Scottish produce without being kitschy about it.
- Breakfast: It’s a spread. Haggis is there if you’re feeling brave (you should be, it’s delicious).
- The Bar: They know their whisky. If you’re overwhelmed by the Scotch selection, just ask the bartender for something "peaty but not like a campfire" or "smooth and sherried." They won't judge.
- Dinner: The venison is usually a safe bet.
If you decide to wander out, you’re a five-minute walk from the St James Quarter. That place is a monolith of food and shopping, but if you want something more "local," head over to Broughton Street. It’s full of independent bistros and pubs that feel a lot more authentic than the chains on the main drag.
The Georgian Heritage Factor
You can't ignore the history. The building was designed by Archibald Elliot. He was a big deal in the 19th century. When you walk into the lobby, look up at the cornicing. Look at the original staircase. It’s grand. It feels like you’re part of the Edinburgh Enlightenment, even if you’re just there to check your emails and eat a club sandwich.
There’s a specific vibe to a building that has survived two centuries. It feels solid. Quiet. The walls are thick enough that you won't hear your neighbor's TV, which is the ultimate luxury in my book.
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Is It Worth the Price Tag?
Edinburgh isn't cheap. It just isn't. Especially during August or around Hogmanay. However, when you compare the Apex Hotel Waterloo Place to the ultra-luxury spots like the Balmoral or the Caledonian, you’re getting a very similar level of comfort for a fraction of the cost.
It’s four-star, but it flirts with five-star service. The staff actually seem to like their jobs. They’ll help you find a lost charger or recommend a pub that isn't a tourist trap. That kind of local intel is worth more than a gold-plated faucet.
Nuance Check: The Drawbacks
Nothing is perfect. Because it's a historic building, some of the hallways are a bit of a labyrinth. You might get turned around looking for your room the first time. Also, if you get a room facing the internal courtyard, the view isn't exactly "Instagrammable." If you want the views of the Firth of Forth or the city skyline, you have to ask for the higher floors on the front side.
Also, parking. Don’t even try. It’s central Edinburgh. If you bring a car, you’re going to have a bad time. Use the trams or the trains.
Actionable Steps for Your Stay
If you’re planning to book, keep these specific tips in mind to get the most out of the experience:
- Join the Loyalty Program: It’s called Apex Alliance. Even if you only stay once, it usually gets you a better rate or a late checkout. Late checkouts are the greatest gift known to man.
- Calton Hill at Sunrise: Since you’re right there, set an alarm. Walk up Calton Hill at 6:00 AM. The hotel is so close you can be back in your room for breakfast before the rest of the city even wakes up.
- The Train Station Entrance: Use the back exit of Waverley Station (the Calton Road exit). It’s a much easier walk to the hotel than fighting the crowds on the main bridge.
- Request a High Ceiling Room: Not all rooms are identical. Mention you’re a fan of the Georgian architecture at check-in; sometimes they can snag you a room with the original 19th-century proportions.
- Check the Spa Schedule: Book your pool time in advance if it’s a weekend. It gets busy around 5:00 PM when everyone returns from sightseeing.
The Apex Hotel Waterloo Place represents the best of what Edinburgh has become: a city that respects its heavy history but knows how to provide a modern, comfortable, and remarkably unstuffy place to rest your head. It’s the smart choice for travelers who want the "grand hotel" feeling without the pretension or the eye-watering bill.