If you walked into a Black household in the 1970s, chances are you’d spot that iconic yellow and black jar. Afro Sheen wasn’t just a hair product; it was a vibe. It was a loud, proud statement of identity. But behind the "beautiful products for beautiful people" was a man named George Johnson, a former door-to-door salesman who basically decided that if the world wasn't going to give Black people a seat at the table, he’d just build his own table. And then he’d take that table to Wall Street.
Honestly, the story of George Johnson and Afro Sheen is one of those classic American "against all odds" tales that feels more relevant now than ever. He didn't just sell hair grease. He sold dignity.
The $250 Lie That Built an Empire
Most business schools talk about "seed funding" and "angel investors." George Johnson had a "vacation loan." In 1954, George and his wife, Joan Johnson, wanted to start Johnson Products Company. They went to a bank in Chicago for a $250 loan to start a business. The bank said no.
So, George went back a few days later to a different branch. This time, he told them he needed the money for a family vacation to California. They approved it on the spot.
Think about that. The foundation of a multi-million dollar empire was built on a $250 "vacation" that never happened. It’s funny, but it’s also a sobering reminder of the hurdles Black entrepreneurs faced back then.
They started in a small plant on Chicago’s South Side. Their first big hit wasn't even for the ladies; it was Ultra Wave, a hair relaxer for men. Then came Ultra Sheen for women, which let people style their hair at home instead of spending half a day at the salon. By 1960, they were dominating almost 80% of the Black hair care market.
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When the Afro Became a Political Statement
In the late 60s, something shifted. The civil rights movement was morphing into the Black Power movement. People were ditching the relaxers. They were letting their natural hair grow. For most companies, this would have been a disaster. Your main product is for straightening hair, and suddenly everyone wants it curly?
George Johnson didn't panic. He leaned in.
He launched Afro Sheen in the late 1960s. It was genius. The marketing didn't just say "this makes your hair look good." It used phrases like "soul food for the natural" and "Natural Hair hangs out. Beautiful!" He wasn't just selling a comb-out kit; he was selling the Black is Beautiful movement.
Why the Branding Was Different
- Representaton: The ads featured regular Black people looking majestic.
- Messaging: It focused on pride, not just grooming.
- Innovation: They created the "Blow Out Kit" specifically for the texture of natural hair.
Soul Train and the Wall Street Breakthrough
You can't talk about Afro Sheen and George Johnson without talking about Soul Train. In 1971, Johnson Products became the first major sponsor of the show. It was a massive gamble. A Black-owned company sponsoring a Black-hosted show (shout out to Don Cornelius) for a Black audience.
It worked. It didn't just work; it became a cultural phenomenon. It turned Soul Train from a local Chicago show into a national icon.
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That same year, 1971, George Johnson made history again. Johnson Products Company became the first Black-owned company to be listed on the American Stock Exchange (AMEX).
Imagine the scene. A man who had to lie about a vacation to get $250 was now ringing the bell on Wall Street. By 1976, annual sales were hitting $40 million. That’s roughly $225 million in today’s money. He had over 500 employees and even opened a factory in Nigeria. The guy was a powerhouse.
The "Golden Rule" and the Bitter End
If you ask George Johnson how he did it—and he’s still around to tell you, having recently released his memoir at age 97—he’ll tell you about the Golden Rule. Treat people right. Do unto others. It sounds simple, maybe even a bit cheesy, but he lived it. He founded Independence Bank in Chicago because he knew how hard it was for Black folks to get loans. He gave out over 1,000 college scholarships.
But business is brutal.
In the late 70s, the "big guys" (Revlon, Avon, etc.) realized there was a lot of money in Black hair. They started moves to crush the independent players. Then came the internal struggles. George and Joan divorced in 1989. As part of the settlement, Joan got control of the company.
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In 1993, the company was sold to IVAX, a white-owned firm, for about $67 million. It was a heartbreaking moment for many in the community. George himself was vocal about it, saying that once the deal was done, that money would no longer stay in the Black community. It felt like the end of an era.
The Legacy Lives On
Eventually, the brand bounced around—Procter & Gamble owned it for a while—but in 2009, a group of Black investors bought it back. Afro Sheen is back on shelves today, though the market is way more crowded than it was in 1970.
What George Johnson did wasn't just about chemistry or marketing. It was about seeing value where the rest of the world saw a "niche." He proved that Black culture was—and is—the engine of American cool.
Lessons from the Afro Sheen Era
- Pivot when the world changes. When the trend went from straight to natural, Johnson didn't fight it; he led it.
- Community is your capital. Sponsoring Soul Train wasn't just an ad buy; it was an investment in the culture.
- Ownership is the goal. Going public wasn't just about money; it was about showing that Black excellence belonged on the highest stage.
George Johnson’s story is a masterclass in resilience. He took a "no" from a bank and turned it into a "yes" from the world. Whether you use the products or not, you have to respect the hustle that paved the way for every Black-owned beauty brand we see today.
What to do next:
If you're an entrepreneur or just a history buff, check out George Johnson's 2025 memoir, Afro Sheen: How I Revolutionized an Industry with the Golden Rule. It’s a literal blueprint on how to build a legacy while keeping your soul intact. You can also support modern Black-owned beauty brands that are carrying the torch he lit seventy years ago.