The eighties were loud. If you weren't there, you've probably seen the photos—the ones where the hair is so big it barely fits in the frame and the colors are neon enough to burn a retina. But for Black women, the 1980s weren't just about "big hair" in a generic sense. It was a decade of massive transition. We were moving away from the uniform political statement of the 70s Afro and sprinting toward a mix of high-glam, corporate "boss lady" aesthetics, and the gritty, emerging influence of hip-hop culture. African American 80s hairstyles black female trends weren't just about vanity; they were about claiming space in a world that was rapidly changing.
Honestly, the variety was staggering. You had the Jheri curl dripping on everyone’s plastic-covered sofas, sure, but you also had the sharp, architectural lines of Grace Jones and the soft, blown-out layers of Whitney Houston. It was a weird, beautiful time where chemistry and creativity collided.
The Chemistry of the Curl: Why the Jheri Curl Owned the Decade
You can't talk about the 80s without talking about the Jheri curl. It's the elephant in the room. Invented by a white hairdresser named Jheri Redding and popularized by brands like Pro-Line and Care Free Curl, this look defined an entire era of Black hair. It gave women a "wash and wear" look that was actually anything but easy.
The process was grueling. First, your hair was broken down with a thioglycolate cream, then rolled on rods, then neutralized. The result? Permanent, wet-look waves. People forget how much of a commitment it was. You had to spray "activator" on it every single morning to keep it from turning into a dry, frizzy mess. It was greasy. It ruined pillowcases. It left oil spots on the backs of bus seats. But man, did it look shiny under the disco lights.
Michael Jackson's Thriller era basically turned the curl into a global phenomenon. For Black women, it offered a middle ground—it wasn't the "revolutionary" Afro, and it wasn't the bone-straight relaxer. It was something bouncy, curly, and undeniably 80s. But by the late 80s, the "juice" started to fade. People got tired of the maintenance and the mess.
Asymmetrical Cuts and the Power of the Salt-N-Pepa Look
Then the music shifted. Hip-hop wasn't just a sound; it was a haircut. When Salt-N-Pepa dropped "Push It," they didn't just give us an anthem; they gave every Black girl in America a new hair goal. The asymmetrical bob was everything. One side was long, maybe grazing the chin, while the other side was buzzed short or tapered tightly against the scalp.
✨ Don't miss: Ariana Grande Blue Cloud Perfume: What Most People Get Wrong
It was aggressive and feminine at the same time.
Sandra "Pepa" Denton often rocked hers with a bright platinum blonde streak or a deep cherry red. This was a massive departure from the "proper" styles seen on sitcoms like The Cosby Show. It was street. It was edgy. To get it right, you needed a stylist who knew how to use a razor, not just scissors. This look paved the way for the "finger waves" and "sculpted baby hairs" that would dominate the early 90s, but in the 80s, it was all about that sharp, lopsided geometry.
The Rise of the "Executive" Blowout
While the rappers were cutting it off, the women entering the corporate workforce were blowing it out. The 1980s saw a surge of Black women in professional spaces, and the hair reflected that "power dressing" mentality. Think Clair Huxtable. Think Diane Carroll in Dynasty.
The goal here was volume. This wasn't the limp, flat-ironed hair of today. This was hair that had been relaxed, set on huge rollers, and then brushed out into a voluminous cloud. It looked soft but felt like iron because of the amount of hairspray involved. Brands like Holding Power and Spritz became staples in the Black community. If your hair didn't move when the wind blew, you were doing it right.
Braids, Beads, and the Bo Derek Backlash
We have to talk about 1979/1980 because it set the stage for the entire decade’s braiding culture. When Bo Derek appeared in the movie 10 with cornrows and beads, the media acted like she’d invented a new technology. Black women were, understandably, annoyed. We’d been wearing those styles for centuries.
🔗 Read more: Apartment Decorations for Men: Why Your Place Still Looks Like a Dorm
However, the 80s took braids to a new level of intricate artistry. This was the era of the "crown braid" and the beginning of the "box braid" explosion that would peak a few years later. Cicely Tyson had been a pioneer here, showing that braided styles were elegant enough for the red carpet. In the 80s, women started experimenting with synthetic extensions (like Kanekalon) to add length and thickness that their natural hair couldn't achieve on its own. It was a protective style before we really started using the term "protective style."
Grace Jones and the High-Top Fade
Before every teenage boy in 1989 had a high-top fade, Grace Jones was wearing the "flattop." She was the ultimate disruptor. Her hair was cut into a literal square, defying gravity and gender norms. It was a look that required a specific kind of confidence—and a very skilled barber.
Jones showed that Black women didn't need long, flowing locks to be perceived as beautiful or powerful. Her look was sculptural. It was art. While it wasn't a "mainstream" look for the average woman going to church on Sunday, it influenced a generation of artists and fashionistas who wanted to reject the hyper-feminized looks of the era.
The Finger Wave and the "Short Crop"
Toward the end of the decade, things started to shrink. We saw a move away from the massive manes of the mid-80s toward something more refined. This is where the finger wave comes in. Using a whole lot of setting gel (usually the brown kind that came in a massive tub) and a fine-tooth comb, stylists would create "S" shaped waves that laid flat against the head.
It was a throwback to the 1920s but with an 80s twist. It was sleek. It was sophisticated. It was the "grown folks" hair. If you were going to a gala or a high-end club in 1988, you were probably rocking finger waves or a very tight, tapered "boy cut" with a bit of height on top.
💡 You might also like: AP Royal Oak White: Why This Often Overlooked Dial Is Actually The Smart Play
Why We Are Still Obsessed Today
Look at any music video today or scroll through TikTok. The 80s are everywhere. We call them "retro," but the techniques developed during that decade—the way we use extensions, the way we lay edges, the way we volume-treat relaxed hair—all of it comes from the experimentation of 80s Black hair culture.
There's a certain nostalgia for the boldness of that time. There was no "clean girl" aesthetic. It was "more is more." More height, more sheen, more accessories. We see the influence in:
- The return of the "butterfly clip" and beaded ends.
- The massive resurgence of the blowout (now done with Dyson Airwraps instead of hard-hat dryers).
- The "mullet" transitions seen in modern wolf cuts, which are basically just evolved 80s shags.
How to Channel the 80s Vibe (Without the Damage)
If you're looking to recreate an African American 80s hairstyles black female look today, don't reach for the 1984-strength chemicals. We know better now.
- For the Jheri Curl look: Use a heavy-duty curl definer and a "wet look" gel. You can get the sheen without the permanent thio-glycolate damage.
- For the Power Blowout: Use a heat protectant (non-negotiable) and a large-barrel round brush. Focus on the roots to get that "Huxtable" lift.
- For the Asymmetrical Bob: Don't be afraid of the razor. Modern versions are a bit softer, but the "short on one side, long on the other" vibe is still incredibly flattering for most face shapes.
The 80s were about transition and a refusal to be invisible. Whether it was the literal juice of a curl or the sharp edge of a fade, Black women used their hair to announce their arrival in every room they entered. It wasn't just fashion; it was a vibe that changed the world.
Next time you're at the salon, think about the height. Think about the volume. Maybe even think about the spritz. Just leave the plastic sofa covers in the past.
Actionable Insight: To achieve authentic 80s volume on natural hair today, try a "blowout" on hair that has been stretched with braids overnight. This creates a fluffy, textured base that mimics the 80s "perm" look without the harsh chemicals. Finish with a high-shine pomade to get that era-specific glow.