You finally did it. You bought the pool. The kids are screaming with joy, the sun is hitting that blue vinyl just right, and for about forty-eight hours, you feel like the king of the backyard. Then Tuesday happens. You wake up, look out the window, and your pristine oasis looks like a bowl of soggy Cheerios because of the oak tree next door. This is exactly where the dream of owning above ground pools with cover systems becomes a cold, hard reality.
I’ve seen people spend $3,000 on a high-end Intex or Bestway setup only to let it turn into a mosquito breeding ground by July because they thought they could "get away without a cover for a while." You can’t. Honestly, it’s the most neglected part of the purchase.
Most people think a cover is just a tarp. It isn't. It’s actually a chemical management system, a safety barrier, and a thermal heater all rolled into one thin layer of polyethylene or vinyl. If you’re not using one, you’re basically throwing money into the wind. Literally. Evaporation takes your expensive chemicals with it.
The Chemistry Problem Most People Ignore
When you leave a pool uncovered, you aren't just losing water. You are losing your sanity. UV rays from the sun are absolute killers for chlorine. According to the pool chemistry experts at TroubleFreePool, unstabilized chlorine can be depleted by up to 90% in just two hours of direct sunlight.
That’s insane.
By investing in above ground pools with cover setups, you’re creating a shield. It keeps the sun from eating your expensive liquid gold. I talked to a guy last summer who was spending $80 a month on "shock" treatments. I told him to put his cover on during the day when the kids weren't in it. His chemical bill dropped to $30.
It's about more than just leaves
Everyone hates leaves. But have you thought about phosphates? Phosphates are basically "algae food." They come from bird droppings, lawn fertilizer drift, and decaying organic matter. If your pool is open to the elements 24/7, you're essentially hosting an all-you-can-eat buffet for algae spores. A solid cover stops that cycle before it starts.
Which Cover Should You Actually Buy?
Don't just buy the one that came in the box. Those "incidental" covers are usually garbage. They're thin, they tear if a bird breathes on them too hard, and the drawstrings never actually stay tight.
Solar Covers (The Bubble Wrap)
These are the blue, bumpy things. They don't "snap" on. They float. If you want to swim in 85-degree water without paying a massive electric bill for a heat pump, this is your best friend. They work by trapping the sun's thermal energy and, more importantly, preventing evaporative cooling at night. Most heat loss happens at the surface when the air temperature drops below the water temperature.
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Winter Covers (The Heavy Duty)
If you live somewhere where the ground freezes, you need the heavy-duty triple-laminated stuff. These usually have a high "scrim" count—that’s the weave density. A 12x12 scrim is okay, but if you want it to last more than one season, look for 14x14 or higher.
Safety Covers
This is where it gets tricky for above ground pools. Most safety covers (the ones you can walk on) are designed for in-ground pools. However, companies like GLI and Meyco have started developing "hybrid" systems. If you have a deck built flush to your above ground pool, you can actually install a real safety cover. It’s a game changer for parents.
The Winch and Cable Struggle
If you’ve ever tried to tighten a pool cover cable alone, you know the specific kind of rage it induces. Here’s a pro tip: buy a small ratchet strap from a hardware store instead of the cheap plastic winch that comes with the kit. It’ll hold the cover tight enough that the wind won't catch it like a sail and rip it off the frame.
Above Ground Pools With Cover: The Heat Retention Factor
Physics is a bummer sometimes. You spend all day heating that water up to a comfortable 82 degrees. Then the sun goes down.
Without a cover, your pool is basically a giant radiator.
Thermal radiation and evaporation work together to strip that heat away. In a typical backyard setting, a pool can lose 5 to 7 degrees overnight. If you have one of those above ground pools with cover habits where you actually put the thing on at 8:00 PM, you might only lose 1 or 2 degrees.
Think about that over a week.
It’s the difference between a pool that’s "refreshing" (which is code for "freezing") and a pool that feels like a bath. Research from the U.S. Department of Energy suggests that a pool cover can reduce the amount of make-up water needed by 30% to 50%. It also reduces chemical consumption by 35% to 60%.
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What Nobody Tells You About Safety
Let's get serious for a second. An above ground pool is a massive liability. Even if you don't have kids, the neighbor's kids might wander over.
A "solar cover" is NOT a safety cover. In fact, it’s the opposite. If a child or a pet falls onto a solar cover, it can wrap around them like Saran Wrap. It’s incredibly dangerous. If you are buying above ground pools with cover systems for safety, you need a solid, tensioned winter cover or a fenced-in deck with a locking gate.
Never, ever assume a floating cover will hold weight. It won't.
Debris Management Hacks
If you have a solid winter cover on, water is going to pool in the middle. This creates a "swamp" on top of your clean water. You need a submersible cover pump. Little Giant makes a solid one, but even a cheap $40 pump from Harbor Freight is better than nothing. If you let 400 gallons of rain sit on top of your cover, the tension will eventually ruin your pool walls. I’ve seen pool frames buckle under the weight of accumulated rainwater on a cover.
Don't be that person.
The Cost-Benefit Breakdown
Is it worth the extra $200 for a high-end cover?
- Cheap Cover: $40. Lasts 1 season. Tears in the wind. Doesn't stop light (algae grows).
- Mid-Range Cover: $120. Lasts 3 seasons. Better UV coating.
- High-End Solid Cover: $250+. Lasts 5-8 years. Comes with a real warranty.
If you calculate the cost of the chemicals you don't have to buy because the sun isn't burning them off, a good cover pays for itself in roughly three months.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Covering a "Green" Pool: If your water is already cloudy, putting a cover on it is like putting a lid on a petri dish. It'll get worse. Get the chemistry right first.
- Leaving the Solar Cover on during a Shock: If you just added a "shock" dose of chlorine (taking it up to 10-20 ppm), do NOT put your cover on. The high chlorine levels will eat the plastic and make it brittle in days. Wait until the chlorine drops below 5 ppm.
- Ignoring the Air Pillow: For winterizing, you need an air pillow in the middle. It breaks the ice's inward pressure. If the water freezes solid into a sheet, it expands outward and can split your pool wall. The pillow ensures the ice expands upward and inward instead.
Real Talk: The "Pain in the Butt" Factor
I get it. Dragging a heavy, wet cover off a pool is nobody's idea of a fun Saturday. This is why "Solar Reels" exist. For above ground pools, you can get a reel that pivots out of the way. It turns a 15-minute struggle into a 2-minute crank. If you make it easy to use the cover, you will actually use it. If it's a chore, you'll leave it in the shed, and your pool will turn into a swamp.
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Practical Steps for a Cleaner Pool
Stop looking at the cover as an "extra." It is a fundamental part of the machine.
First, measure your pool. Don't guess. A 24-foot round pool needs exactly that, plus a bit of "overlap" for the winch. If the cover is too small, it will put stress on the top rails of the pool, which can lead to structural failure over time.
Second, check your local codes. Some cities require "safety covers" or specific types of barriers for above ground pools with cover installations.
Third, get a "Cover Doctor" or a similar weighted bag system if you live in a windy area. Water bags on the edges keep the wind from getting underneath. Once the wind gets under a cover, it’s basically a parachute that wants to take your pool for a ride.
Invest in a telescopic pole with a good brush. Even with a cover, some fine silt will get in. A quick 5-minute brush twice a week keeps the biofilm from sticking to the floor.
Keep your chlorine levels consistent. Use the cover whenever the pool isn't in use. Watch your temperature. Do these three things, and you'll spend your summer swimming instead of scrubbing.
That’s the goal, right? Less work, more floating.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Check your "Scrim" count: If you are buying a winter cover today, ensure it is at least 12x12 or 14x14 density to prevent UV light from penetrating and growing algae during the off-season.
- Buy a cover pump: If you use a solid cover, preventing water accumulation is the only way to save your pool walls from collapsing under the weight.
- Test your water after a rainstorm: Even with a cover, rain can change your pH. High acidity will ruin your liner over time, so check the levels after any major weather event.