You're staring at that spare room. It’s too small for a guest bed, but you’re tired of making your friends sleep on a literal floor. Most people immediately think of the classic "cabinet" style bed that pulls down from the top. But honestly? If your ceiling is low or your room is narrow, that vertical beast is going to feel like a monolith. That is exactly where the queen size horizontal murphy bed enters the chat.
It’s sideways. That’s the big secret.
Instead of the bed standing tall against the wall like a giant wardrobe, it rests on its long side. This changes the entire physics of the room. You aren't fighting for ceiling clearance, and you aren't losing six feet of floor space when you pull it down. It’s a niche solution that actually solves the "tiny apartment" puzzle better than almost anything else on the market right now.
The Low-Ceiling Lifesaver
I’ve seen people try to cram a vertical queen bed into a finished basement only to realize—too late—that the ceiling fan is in the way. Or the crown molding. A standard queen mattress is 80 inches long. Once you add the frame and the mechanism, you’re looking at a height requirement of nearly 90 inches.
Most basements or attic conversions don't have that.
A queen size horizontal murphy bed only needs about 65 to 68 inches of vertical height. This is huge. It means you can put a full-sized guest bed under a window. You can put it under a sloped attic roof. You can even build a bookshelf or a TV mount above it because the bed itself stays low to the ground. It’s basically the "short king" of furniture—unassuming, practical, and highly effective.
People worry that "horizontal" means "small." It doesn't. You’re still getting that 60x80 inch mattress surface. The only difference is which way you’re rotating the hinge. If you have a long, skinny room—think of those "railroad" style apartments in New York or Chicago—a horizontal bed is often the only way to keep a walkway clear while the bed is in use.
Side-Sleeping vs. End-Sleeping: The UX of Beds
Nobody talks about the "climb-over" factor.
With a vertical bed, the person sleeping on the "inside" (the side furthest from the door) has to crawl over their partner or shimmy down to the foot of the bed to get out. It’s awkward. In a queen size horizontal murphy bed, both people have a much easier path to "their" side of the bed because the long side of the mattress is what faces the room.
It feels less like a temporary cot and more like a real bedroom setup.
However, there is a trade-off. Because the bed is sideways, you lose that "headboard" feeling. You’re essentially sleeping parallel to the wall. For some, this feels cozy, like a built-in daybed. For others who like to sit up and read against a plush headboard, it takes some getting used to. You’ll probably want to invest in some oversized European shams to lean against.
Let's Talk Mechanics: Pistons vs. Springs
If you're buying one of these, you’re going to run into two main types of lift systems. Real talk? They aren't created equal.
The spring systems are the old-school choice. They’re adjustable, which is nice if you have a heavy mattress, but they can be a total pain to install. You’re basically wrestling with high-tension coils. Brands like Lori Bed actually skip the metal mechanisms entirely to save money and space, using a manual "rocking" motion instead. It’s clever, but you need a bit of upper body strength.
Piston systems (gas struts) are what you’ll find in higher-end models from places like Bestar or Resource Furniture. They’re smooth. You pull with one finger, and the bed glides down. The downside? If the piston fails in ten years, you have to find a specific replacement part.
Pro Tip: If you’re DIYing this, check the "weight capacity" of the mechanism. A queen mattress can weigh anywhere from 60 to 120 pounds. If you buy a cheap kit and pair it with a heavy memory foam mattress, the bed might stay down—permanently.
Where Most People Mess Up the Installation
Wall anchoring is not optional. I cannot stress this enough.
A queen size horizontal murphy bed creates a massive amount of leverage when it’s being opened. If you haven't bolted that cabinet into at least three wooden studs, the whole thing can come crashing down on you. I’ve seen DIY "fails" where the cabinet literally pulled the drywall off the wall.
Don't be that person.
Also, consider the "projection." This is the distance the bed extends into the room when open. A horizontal queen usually projects about 66 inches from the wall. A vertical queen projects 85 to 90 inches. Measure your space. Then measure it again. Then put blue painter's tape on the floor to visualize the footprint. You’ll be surprised how much those extra 20 inches of saved floor space matter when you’re trying to walk around the bed to get to the closet.
Why the Mattress Matters More Than the Frame
You can’t just throw any old mattress on a murphy bed.
Most queen size horizontal murphy bed frames have a maximum mattress thickness of 10 to 12 inches. If you have one of those massive 14-inch pillow-tops with the cooling gel and the extra fluff, the bed won't close. Or worse, it will stay "slightly" open, putting constant strain on the locking mechanism.
Look for a "hybrid" mattress or a high-quality foam mattress that doesn't "slump." Since the bed is stored on its side, gravity is pulling the mattress downward toward the floor 23 hours a day. Cheap inner-spring mattresses will eventually bunch up at the bottom, leaving you with a weird lump near your feet and no support at your head.
Brands like Murphy Door or even Tuft & Needle make mattresses that are specifically tested for vertical (or horizontal) storage. They have a denser core that holds its shape even when it’s standing on its edge for months at a time.
The Cost Reality: What You Should Actually Pay
You’re going to see prices all over the map.
On the low end, you can get a DIY hardware kit for about $300. You provide the wood, the labor, and the many, many hours of frustration.
A mid-range cabinet-inclusive queen size horizontal murphy bed usually lands between $1,200 and $2,200. This is the sweet spot for most homeowners. You get decent particle board or MDF with a laminate finish and a reliable piston system.
If you go to a high-end boutique (think Italian-made Clei beds), you could easily spend $5,000 to $10,000. Is it worth it? Only if you live in a 300-square-foot studio and this bed is your primary piece of furniture. Those models often include integrated desks or sofas that transform as the bed comes down. It’s engineering art, but it’s overkill for a guest room.
Designing Around the "Sideways" Look
Because the horizontal bed is long and low, it can look a bit like a credenza or a long storage chest when closed. This is actually a huge design advantage.
You can use the top of the cabinet as a shelf for plants, books, or a record player. Just remember: anything you put on top stays there when the bed opens. With a vertical bed, the "top" is seven feet in the air, making it useless for decor.
🔗 Read more: How Many Feet in an Acre: The Math Most People Get Wrong
I’ve seen some great setups where people wrap the horizontal bed in custom cabinetry to make it look like a built-in window seat. It’s subtle. It doesn't scream "GUEST BED LIVES HERE."
Final Logistics to Consider
- Floor clearance: Make sure you don't have a thick shag rug that will catch on the legs as they swing out.
- Power outlets: Most people forget that the bed will cover the outlets on the wall. If you want to charge your phone at night, you might need to cut a hole in the back of the cabinet or install a power strip inside.
- Lighting: Since you're sleeping parallel to the wall, a single overhead light can feel harsh. Small, battery-operated LED "puck" lights inside the cabinet can create a nice reading nook vibe.
Actionable Next Steps
If you’re ready to pull the trigger on a queen size horizontal murphy bed, start with these three moves:
- Check your wall type. Find your studs. If you have metal studs or plaster-and-lath, you’re going to need specialized anchors or a professional installer. Murphy beds are heavy, and the torque is real.
- Measure your mattress. If you already own a queen mattress, measure its depth. If it’s over 11 inches, you likely need to shop for a new, slimmer mattress or find a specific "deep-box" murphy frame.
- Map the "Swing Zone." Use tape to mark the 66-inch projection on your floor. Open your room's door. Open your closet doors. Do they hit the tape? If so, you might need to rethink the placement or opt for a different size.
A horizontal setup is a game-changer for weirdly shaped rooms, but it requires a bit more planning than a standard bed frame. Get the measurements right, and you'll have a room that actually functions like two rooms in one.