If you’ve ever tried to haul yourself onto a 17-hand Warmblood from the ground, you know that sickening sound of your hip flexor screaming for mercy. It’s not just about you, though. Your horse’s spine is taking a beating every time you put all your weight into one stirrup and heave. That’s why a 4 step mounting block has transitioned from a luxury item to a staple in modern barns. Honestly, it's just common sense at this point.
Most people start with those little two-step plastic things. They’re fine for ponies. But once you’re dealing with height, those short blocks leave you reaching, stretching, and doing a weird hopping dance that unsettles the horse. A four-step version changes the geometry of the mount entirely. You aren't climbing up; you're just stepping over.
The mechanical reality of the 4 step mounting block
Let's talk physics for a second. When you mount from the ground, the torque applied to a horse’s back is massive. Studies using pressure mats, like those conducted by Dr. Hilary Clayton, have shown that mounting from the ground creates a significant lateral pull on the spine. Even a three-step block sometimes isn't enough to eliminate that "pull" if the rider is tall or the horse is a literal giant.
A 4 step mounting block brings your center of gravity almost level with the stirrup or even the seat of the saddle. This allows for a "step-across" motion rather than a "pull-up" motion. It saves the tree of your expensive saddle from twisting. It saves the horse's longissimus dorsi muscles from sudden, uneven strain.
You’ve probably seen those riders who insist on mounting from the ground to prove they’re "fit." It’s a point of pride. But frankly, it’s a bit selfish when you consider the horse’s long-term soundness. If you have the option to make life easier for the animal carrying you, why wouldn't you take it?
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Durability and the "Wobble Factor"
Not all blocks are created equal. You’ll see the cheap ones at local feed stores that feel like they’re made of recycled milk jugs. If you’re standing on the top of a four-step tier, you are roughly 30 to 36 inches off the ground. At that height, stability is everything.
High-density polyethylene (HDPE) is the industry standard for a reason. It’s heavy. It’s UV-stabilized. It doesn’t turn brittle after one summer in the Texas sun or crack during a Minnesota freeze. Brands like Horsemen’s Pride or Burlingham Sports dominate this space because their molds are thick-walled. You want something that doesn't flex when a 200-pound human stands on the very edge of the top step.
Cheaper models often skip the "grit" on the treads. That’s a massive mistake. If your boots are muddy or it’s drizzling, a smooth plastic step is a slip-and-fall accident waiting to happen. Look for blocks with molded-in traction or grip tape. If the one you buy is too smooth, go to a hardware store and buy some adhesive anti-slip strips immediately.
Training young horses with more height
There’s a hidden benefit to the 4 step mounting block that trainers rarely mention: it makes your horse better at standing still.
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When you use a short block, you’re often fumbling to find the stirrup while perched precariously. This movement encourages the horse to walk off. With a taller block, you can stand comfortably at the horse’s shoulder. You can pet them, adjust your girth, and settle your nerves before you even think about swinging a leg over.
- Position the block in a corner if the horse is "scooty."
- Spend three days just standing on the top step and feeding treats.
- Don't even mount. Just hang out up there.
- Desensitize them to the sight of you being "tall" and imposing.
Many horses get spooked when a rider suddenly appears above their eye line. By using a four-step block, you can normalize your presence at that height. It becomes a place of relaxation rather than a place of "work is about to start."
Weight limits and heavy-duty needs
If you're running a public lesson barn, you need the heavy-duty stuff. A standard 4 step mounting block usually supports around 300 pounds, but some reinforced industrial models go higher. Don't guess on this. If the plastic starts to bow, it’s compromised.
I’ve seen people try to build their own out of wood. It seems like a great weekend project until you realize how heavy a wooden 4-step block actually is. You can't move it. It rots if it touches the dirt. It grows moss. Stick to the molded plastic versions that have built-in handles. Being able to drag the block to different parts of the arena—or even into a trailer—is a lifesaver.
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What to look for when shopping
Don't just buy the first one you see on a tack website. Prices vary wildly, mostly because shipping something that large is a nightmare.
- Height: Ensure the top step is at least 30 inches. Anything less is basically a 3-step with an ego.
- Base Width: A narrow base is a tipping hazard. The footprint should be significantly wider than the top step.
- Storage: Some blocks have a hollow back or a lift-up step for storing brushes or towels. Super handy for ringside touch-ups.
- Color: Darker colors like hunter green or black hide dirt but get incredibly hot in the sun. Light grey or tan is usually the sweet spot for outdoor rings.
There’s a weird trend right now with "mounting platforms" that are basically giant decks. Those are great for therapeutic riding centers where you need two people helping a rider, but for a private owner? A 4 step mounting block is the perfect middle ground between a flimsy step-stool and a permanent construction project.
Common misconceptions about height
Some riders think that using a tall block is "cheating." They feel like if they can't mount from the ground, they shouldn't be riding. That’s old-school thinking that ignores veterinary science. Your horse's back doesn't care about your ego. It cares about the 150+ pounds of pressure being applied to one side of its spine.
Even if you can mount from the ground, saving that effort for when you're out on a trail and have no other choice is the smarter move. Use the block at home to keep your horse's back (and your own knees) in peak condition for the stuff that actually matters—like the ride itself.
Next Steps for Your Stable
If you're ready to upgrade, start by measuring your horse's height at the highest point of the withers. For any horse over 16.2 hands, the 4-step is usually the most ergonomic choice. Check the "footprint" dimensions of the block you're eyeing to make sure it will fit in your mounting area without becoming a tripping hazard for other horses passing by. If you’re buying for an outdoor arena, look specifically for a model with "UV-8" protection to prevent the plastic from bleaching and cracking over time. Once it arrives, don't just start using it; spend a few sessions teaching your horse to "park" next to it. They need to learn to align their ribcage with the block so you aren't reaching across a gap. A little bit of ground work here goes a long way toward a safer, smoother start to every ride.