Why 90s hair with butterfly clips is the comeback nobody saw coming (and how to wear it now)

Why 90s hair with butterfly clips is the comeback nobody saw coming (and how to wear it now)

You remember that specific sound. The tiny, plastic click-clack of a spring-loaded hinge. If you grew up anywhere near a mall in 1997, you probably had a vanity drawer overflowing with translucent, glittery insects. 90s hair with butterfly clips wasn't just a trend; it was a total cultural takeover that defined the aesthetic of an entire generation of teenagers.

It was messy. It was colorful. Honestly, it was a little bit chaotic.

But here we are in 2026, and the "butterfly effect" is back in full force. It’s not just for nostalgic TikTok transitions either. Real people—and high-fashion stylists—are actually bringing these plastic relics back into the light. But why? Maybe it’s the collective yearning for a pre-digital simplicity, or maybe we just realized that modern hair is, frankly, getting a little boring.

The unexpected history of the plastic swarm

Before they were everywhere, butterfly clips were actually a bit of a niche accessory. They emerged from the broader "maximalist" movement of the mid-90s. This was a time when minimalism (think Calvin Klein slips) was fighting for dominance against the rave-influenced, candy-colored "Club Kid" style.

The clips won.

By the time 1998 rolled around, you couldn't turn on MTV without seeing them. Think back to Sarah Michelle Gellar on a red carpet or Melissa Joan Hart in Sabrina the Teenage Witch. They weren't just using one or two clips to hold back a stray bang. They were using dozens. It was about architecture. They would section off the hair into tiny "fountains" or twists, securing each one with a different colored clip.

It looked like a literal garden was growing out of their scalps.

The trend was fueled by brands like Claires and Icing, which sold them in massive jars. You could get the standard iridescent ones, the ones with "shaking" wings attached by tiny springs, or even the matte versions for a "grungier" look. It was cheap, accessible fashion. That’s probably why it hit so hard—you didn't need a designer budget to look like a pop star. You just needed three dollars and a lot of patience for sectioning.

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Why 90s hair with butterfly clips feels different this time

If you try to copy a 1999 hairstyle exactly, you’re going to look like you’re heading to a costume party. That’s the trap. Today’s revival of 90s hair with butterfly clips is a lot more intentional. It's less "I'm a pre-teen at the roller rink" and more "I'm an adult who understands irony and structural geometry."

Modern stylists like Justine Marjan have shown how to use these accessories without the cringe factor. The secret? Contrast.

If you have sleek, glass-like hair, adding a couple of matte black or tortoiseshell butterfly clips creates a sophisticated focal point. It breaks up the seriousness. We’re seeing a shift away from the "neon rainbow" approach toward monochromatic styling. Using all-white clips on dark hair or gold-toned metal clips for a night out. It's the same shape, sure, but the vibe has matured.

The "Twist and Clip" technique vs. the "Crown"

Back in the day, the "Crown" was king. You’d take the entire front section of your hair, split it into six or eight tiny segments, twist them back tightly, and clip them down. It created a headband effect made entirely of hair and plastic. It was tight. It gave people literal headaches.

Now? People are opting for the "Twist and Clip" but with a much looser hand.

Take two small strands near your face. Twist them away from your eyes. Secure them just above the temple. It’s functional. It keeps your hair out of your face while you're working or eating, but it still gives that "cool girl" nod to the 90s. It's subtle. Well, as subtle as a plastic bug in your hair can be.

The celebrity influence that kept the wings flapping

We can't talk about this without mentioning the icons.

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  • Gwen Stefani: She was the queen of the architectural clip. She often paired them with space buns or blue hair, proving the clips worked across subcultures—from ska to pop.
  • Tyra Banks: She showed that butterfly clips could actually be "glam." She’d wear them with massive, blown-out 90s volume, proving they weren't just for straight, limp hair.
  • Mary-Kate and Ashley: They were the blueprint for the "boho-butterfly" look. Messy waves, random braids, and a few clips scattered in like they just fell there.

In the current era, we’ve seen Olivia Rodrigo and Dua Lipa lead the charge. They aren't just wearing the clips; they are wearing the attitude that comes with them. That "I didn't try too hard but I still look better than you" energy. It works because it’s playful. In a world of filtered perfection and "quiet luxury," a $2 plastic clip is a loud, joyful middle finger to being too serious.

Choosing the right clips for your hair type

Honestly, not all clips are created equal. If you have thick, curly hair, those tiny 1-cm clips from the dollar store are going to snap the second you try to close them. It's frustrating.

For Type 3 or 4 hair, look for the "medium" sized butterfly clips. They exist! Brands have started making them with wider "teeth" and stronger springs to actually hold some tension. You can use them to accent a high puff or to pin back one side of a deep side part.

For fine or thin hair, the classic mini clips are actually your best friend. They don't weigh the hair down. If you find they’re sliding out, here’s a pro tip: spray the clip itself with a little bit of dry shampoo or texture spray before you put it in. It gives the plastic some "grip" so it doesn't slide down your hair shaft by lunchtime.

The color theory of 2026 butterflies

  1. The Minimalist: Clear or "frosted" clips. They catch the light but don't scream for attention.
  2. The E-Girl/Boy: High-contrast neons. Think hot pink clips on jet black hair.
  3. The Soft Girl: Pastel lavenders and baby blues, usually paired with "curtain bangs."
  4. The Executive: Yes, people are doing this. Tortoiseshell or metal-plated clips used to hold back a sleek low ponytail.

Mastering the modern application

To get 90s hair with butterfly clips right in 2026, you need to think about balance. If you're doing the clips, maybe skip the glitter eyeshadow and the fuzzy sweater. Let the hair be the "statement."

Start with second-day hair. Clean, slippery hair is the enemy of the butterfly clip. You want a bit of grit. If you just washed it, hit it with some sea salt spray.

Then, decide on your "vibe." Are you going for the "Face Framer"? That’s one clip on either side of your middle part, right at the eyebrow line. It’s very "Gen Z" and incredibly easy. Or are you going for the "Scatter"? This is where you do a loose braid or a messy bun and just randomly "land" 3-4 clips on the structure. It looks accidental. It looks artistic.

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Don't overthink the symmetry. In the 90s, everything had to be perfectly even. One clip on the left, one on the right. One inch apart. Today, asymmetry is your friend. Place three clips on one side and leave the other side totally plain. It creates a more "editorial" look that feels intentional rather than juvenile.

What most people get wrong about the trend

The biggest mistake? Putting the clips too far back.

If you put the clips at the crown of your head, they disappear from the front. The whole point of 90s hair with butterfly clips is the framing. You want them to be visible when you're looking at someone head-on. They should sit somewhere between your hairline and the top of your ears.

Another misconception is that these are "damaging." Actually, compared to tight elastic hair ties or metal-barrette "snaps," butterfly clips are pretty gentle. They distribute the pressure across the teeth rather than strangling a single point of the hair. Just don't rip them out. Open the spring fully before removing. Your split ends will thank you.

Taking the next steps with your style

If you're ready to dive back into the world of plastic lepidoptera, don't just buy the first pack you see. Think about your wardrobe. If you wear a lot of neutrals, a pack of multi-colored "neon" clips will probably sit in your drawer unused.

Actionable steps to nail the look:

  • Audit your hair texture: Buy "jumbo" butterflies for thick curls and "mini" for fine or straight hair.
  • Prep the canvas: Use a matte wax or texture powder to give the clips something to hang onto.
  • Start small: Try the "one-side" tuck first. Use two clips to pin back the hair behind your ear on just one side.
  • Mix materials: Look for resin or acetate clips instead of the cheap "translucent" plastic if you want a more "adult" feel.
  • Check the mirror: Look at your profile. The clips should enhance the shape of your head, not just sit on top of it like an afterthought.

The beauty of this trend is its low stakes. It’s not a permanent dye job. It’s not a dramatic chop. It’s just plastic and springs. If you hate it, you just un-clip and go about your day. But chances are, once you see how that little pop of color brightens up your face, you'll be hooked all over again.