It’s happening again. You’re looking at old photos of Kelly Clarkson on the American Idol stage or Geri Halliwell during her Ginger Spice peak, and suddenly, those thick, striped streaks don't look so "mistake-adjacent" anymore. They look intentional. They look bold. Honestly, they look better than the blurry, low-contrast balayage we've been stuck with for the last decade.
The 90s chunky highlights trend—once the poster child for "What were we thinking?"—has clawed its way back into the mainstream. But it’s not exactly the same. We aren't doing the "zebra stripe" look with a box of bleach and a prayer in a high school bathroom anymore. At least, most of us aren't. Today’s version is a bit more polished, but it still keeps that rebellious, high-contrast energy that defined the MTV era.
People are tired of subtle. They're tired of hair that looks "natural." If you're spending three hours in a stylist's chair and a few hundred dollars, you kind of want people to notice, right? That's the core psychology behind why this look is dominating TikTok and celebrity red carpets right now. It's a refusal to blend in.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Original Look
If you mention 90s chunky highlights to anyone over thirty, they probably shudder thinking about "the cap." You know the one. That rubber torture device with the tiny holes where a stylist would pull strands of hair through with a metal hook. It was painful. It was messy. And it almost always resulted in bleeding color at the roots.
The misconception is that these highlights were supposed to look bad. They weren't. They were a reaction against the feathered, soft-glam 80s. The 90s were about grit and graphic lines. When Christina Aguilera showed up with those jet-black and platinum blonde contrast streaks, it wasn't a mistake. It was a statement. It was meant to be seen from the back of a concert hall.
The reality? Most "bad" chunky highlights from that era were just the result of a lack of technique. We didn't have the sophisticated toning products or the bonding treatments we have now. You either had orange-yellow stripes or white-hot bleach lines. There was very little "in-between" back then.
The Celeb Influence Then and Now
Look at the history. You had Jennifer Aniston in the early seasons of Friends. Her "Rachel" cut featured very distinct, honey-toned ribbons that were much thicker than the babylights of 2015. Then you had the more extreme versions. Geri Halliwell’s face-framing blonde chunks against her red hair became a global icon of the Cool Britannia movement.
Fast forward. Dua Lipa basically restarted the entire fire when she debuted her two-toned look—dark underneath, bleach-blonde on top—for her Future Nostalgia era. It was a direct homage to the 90s chunky highlights style, but it felt fresh because the placement was more strategic. Rihanna, Bella Hadid, and even Miley Cyrus have all dipped into this well recently. They aren't going for "sun-kissed." They're going for "artificially enhanced," and there’s something really honest about that.
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Why the Modern Version Won’t Make You Look Like a Zebra
So, how do you do this without looking like a 1998 mall rat? It’s all in the "ribboning" technique.
Modern stylists use foilayage or specific sectioning to create what we now call "ribbons of color." Instead of pulling random chunks through a cap, they’re looking at where the hair falls. They’re taking wider sections—sometimes a full inch or more—but they’re painting them with a slight gradient near the root. This prevents that harsh, horizontal line that happens when your hair starts growing out.
- Placement is everything. We’re seeing a huge focus on the "Money Piece."
- Contrast matters. You want at least three to four levels of difference between your base and your highlight.
- Tone is the savior. In the 90s, we left the bleach raw. Now, we use violet-based toners to make sure the "chunky" part looks expensive, not brassy.
I’ve talked to colorists who say the biggest shift is the "interior" of the hair. In the old days, the highlights were only on the very top layer. Now, we’re seeing "peek-a-boo" chunks. You lift your hair up or put it in a ponytail, and suddenly there’s this massive flash of color from the nape of the neck. It’s dynamic.
Technical Realities: Can Your Hair Handle It?
Let's get real for a second. If you have dark, box-dyed hair and you want platinum 90s chunky highlights, your hair is going to take a hit. High-contrast looks require high-lift lighteners.
According to hair health studies and industry standards from brands like Olaplex and K18, the structural integrity of the hair is compromised the moment you jump more than two levels. Chunky highlights often require jumping five or six levels. You’re basically stripping the cortex.
If your hair is already brittle, this trend might not be for you. Or, at least, not the high-contrast version. You can still get the "chunky" effect by using a high-lift tint rather than bleach, though the result will be warmer (think caramel instead of ice).
Maintenance is a Different Beast
One of the lies people tell about 90s hair is that it’s low maintenance. It’s actually the opposite.
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When you have thick, distinct ribbons of color, the "regrowth" is incredibly obvious. With balayage, you can go six months without a touch-up because the transition is blurry. With chunky highlights, you have a hard line. You’re looking at a salon visit every six to eight weeks to maintain the "crispness" of the look.
And then there's the fading. Large sections of lightened hair have more surface area to oxidize. If you aren't using a sulfate-free shampoo and a dedicated toning mask, those beautiful cream-colored chunks will turn the color of a school bus in about fourteen days. It’s just chemistry.
How to Ask Your Stylist for This (Without Scaring Them)
Walking into a salon and saying "I want 90s chunky highlights" is a gamble. Your stylist might have PTSD from the first time this trend went around. You have to be specific.
Bring photos. But don't just bring photos of the 90s. Bring photos of the modern interpretation. Use terms like "high-contrast ribbons" or "graphic face-framing." Mention that you want "defined separation" between the colors.
If they suggest "blending it out" with a root smudge, and you actually want that 90s look, say no. The whole point of the 90s aesthetic is the lack of a seamless blend. You want the eye to see where the dark ends and the light begins. It’s a geometric approach to beauty.
Is It Professional?
This is a valid question. We live in a world that’s more casual now, but "skunk hair" (as some call the high-contrast chunky look) still carries a bit of an alternative stigma.
If you work in a super conservative environment—think high-level law or old-school finance—this look might be a "Friday night only" vibe achieved with clip-ins. But for most of us? It’s totally fine. In fact, it shows a certain level of confidence. It says you aren't following the "quiet luxury" beige trend that has become a bit of a uniform lately.
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The Psychological Shift Toward High-Contrast Beauty
Why now? Why 2026?
Fashion works in twenty-year cycles, but the "chunky" obsession is also a reaction to the digital age. On a small smartphone screen, subtle hair colors disappear. You can't see a "perfectly blended melt" in a grainy TikTok video or a compressed Instagram photo.
But you can see chunky highlights.
They pop. They create a frame for the face that works incredibly well for digital creators. It’s "high-definition" hair. We’re moving away from the "I woke up like this" lie and moving toward an "I spent money on this" reality. There’s a certain power in being high-maintenance and being loud about it.
Actionable Steps for Your Hair Transformation
If you’re ready to pull the trigger on 90s chunky highlights, don't just wing it. Follow this roadmap to ensure you don't end up with a look you regret.
- Assess your base color. If you’re a natural brunette, aim for "biscuit" or "toffee" chunks first before going straight to platinum. It’s easier on the hair and allows you to get used to the contrast.
- Focus on the "V-section." Ask for the thickest chunks to be placed around your face and through your natural part. This gives the most 90s impact without needing to highlight your entire head.
- Invest in a bond builder. Before your appointment, do a week of protein treatments. Afterward, use a bond-repairing leave-in. This keeps the "chunks" looking shiny rather than frizzy.
- Buy a purple or blue toning foam. Unlike heavy masks, a foam provides a light touch-up to the highlights without dulling the darker "base" hair around them.
- Adjust your makeup. High-contrast hair often requires a bit more "face." A bolder lip or more defined brows help balance the graphic nature of the hair.
The 90s chunky highlights trend isn't just a nostalgia trip; it’s a tool for self-expression that rejects the "natural" standard. It’s bold, it’s loud, and when done with modern technology, it’s surprisingly sophisticated. Just remember that the goal is intentionality. Whether you go for the full Kelly Clarkson or a subtle "money piece" ribbon, make sure it looks like you meant it.
Start by finding a stylist who specializes in "creative color" rather than just "natural balayage." Look through their portfolio for high-contrast work specifically. If their entire feed is soft, blended blondes, they might struggle to give you the sharp definition this look requires. Set a consultation, show your reference images, and be honest about your hair history to avoid any chemical surprises during the lifting process.