The 1970s gets a bad rap for being the decade of "bad hair," but that’s mostly because people only remember the extremes. Everyone thinks of the massive afros or the waist-length hippie strands. But if you actually look at the photography from the era—the real stuff, not the costume shop versions—you'll see that 70s hairstyles short hair trends were actually the most revolutionary part of the decade’s aesthetic. It wasn't just about length. It was about texture.
It was about liberation.
Honestly, the short hair of the 70s was a direct middle finger to the rigid, hair-sprayed helmets of the 1960s. Women were tired of sitting under giant hooded dryers for three hours just to look like a Stepford wife. They wanted to move. They wanted to sweat. They wanted hair that looked better the more they messed with it. This is exactly why these looks are coming back in 2026. We are all collectively exhausted by the high-maintenance "clean girl" aesthetic and the endless parade of slicked-back buns that give you a headache.
The Shag: Not Just for Rockstars Anymore
You can't talk about this era without mentioning the Shag. Paul McGregor is often credited with creating the "original" shag for Jane Fonda in the film Klute. It changed everything. Before that, short hair was usually very blunt or very curled. McGregor took a razor to it. He created these choppy, uneven layers that framed the face and hugged the neck.
It was messy. It was intentional.
The beauty of the 70s shag, especially on shorter hair, is that it relies on the "mule" principle—short on top and sides, longer in the back. Not quite a mullet, but definitely a cousin. This look worked because it gave volume to people with thin hair. If you’ve ever struggled with flat hair, the 1970s short shag is basically your holy grail. It uses weight distribution to create height at the crown without needing a gallon of Aqua Net.
Dorothy Hamill and the Wedge Revolution
In 1976, a figure skater changed the world. That’s not hyperbole. When Dorothy Hamill won Olympic gold, every woman in America went to the salon asking for "The Wedge." Designed by Trevor Sorbie (who was working for Vidal Sassoon at the time), the wedge was a masterpiece of hair geometry.
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It’s a specific type of 70s hairstyles short hair that relies on "stacking." The back is cut extremely short at the nape, and the hair gets progressively longer as it moves toward the ears and face. When Hamill spun on the ice, her hair moved in a perfect circle and then fell exactly back into place.
It was low-maintenance but high-drama.
Today, we see this evolving into the "bubble bob" or the "hydro-bob," but the DNA is 100% 1976. The trick to making a wedge look modern is to avoid the "mushroom" effect. You want the layers to be soft, not a solid block of hair. Real experts will tell you that the wedge requires a very specific type of tension during the cut; if the stylist pulls too hard, the hair bounces up too short once it's dry. It’s a technical challenge that looks effortless.
The Afro: Short, Tight, and Political
We have to talk about the short afro. In the 70s, the "TWA" (Teeny Weeny Afro) wasn't just a style choice; it was a statement of Black pride and a rejection of Eurocentric beauty standards. Think of Cicely Tyson. She was a pioneer of the short, cropped natural look on screen.
The short afro in the 70s was about shape. It wasn't just letting hair grow; it was picking it out into a perfect sphere or a slightly tapered silhouette. This was a massive departure from the straightened, pressed styles of previous decades. It celebrated the 4C texture rather than trying to hide it.
The maintenance was actually quite involved, contrary to what some might think. It required constant moisture—lots of oils and creams to keep the shape from collapsing. Today, we call this "moisture-sealing," but back then, it was just the daily routine of the "natural" movement.
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Why the Pixie Changed Its Vibe
The pixie cut didn't die in the 60s with Twiggy. It just got grittier. In the 70s, short hair became less about looking like a doll and more about looking like a rebel.
Take a look at Debbie Harry or the early punk scene in London. The 70s version of the pixie was often "chopped." It wasn't neat. It had "points" or "bits" that stuck out around the ears. It was less "pixie" and more "urchin." This is a key distinction. A 60s pixie is smooth. A 70s hairstyles short hair pixie is textured. It’s meant to look like you might have cut it yourself in a bathroom mirror before going to a concert.
- Texture: Use a salt spray or a dry matte paste.
- The Fringe: 70s short hair almost always had a bang. Whether it was a micro-bang or a shaggy, eyebrow-grazing fringe, the forehead was rarely bare.
- The Ear Tuck: A hallmark of the era. Keeping the hair behind the ears while letting the top fall forward.
The Pageboy and the "Purdie"
There was also a polished side to the decade. The Pageboy was everywhere. It was a blunt cut that flipped under at the bottom. Think of it as the precursor to the modern "power bob." Joanna Lumley famously wore a version of this in The New Avengers—the "Purdey" cut. It was a mix of a bowl cut and a shag.
It’s a difficult look to pull off because it requires a very strong jawline. But man, when it works, it’s the chicest thing in the room. It’s heavy, it’s thick, and it has a lot of "swing." If you have thick hair, this is your era. The 70s loved weight. They didn't thin hair out with thinning shears back then; they embraced the bulk.
The Science of the "Flick"
Everything in the 70s flipped out or flicked back. Even with short hair, the ends were rarely straight. This was the era of the round brush and the hot roller. If you’re trying to replicate a 70s short look today, you cannot skip the outward flick.
Basically, you take the hair at the temples and the nape and use a small round brush to curl them away from the face. This creates that "Farrah" energy even on hair that only hits the chin. It’s about opening up the face. It’s optimistic hair. It looks like you’re constantly walking into a slight breeze.
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Common Misconceptions and Mistakes
People often think 70s hair was "dirty" because of the whole hippie vibe. That's a myth. It was actually the golden age of shampoo commercials. Everyone wanted "bouncy and manageable" hair.
The biggest mistake people make when trying to do a 70s short style now? Making it too perfect. If your hair doesn't move when you walk, it's not a 70s look. You have to ditch the heavy-hold hairspray. Use a flexible spray or nothing at all. Let the wind do the work.
Another mistake is ignoring the sideburns. In the 70s, even women’s short cuts had prominent "points" in front of the ears. This helped frame the cheekbones and gave the hair a more architectural feel. If you tuck those bits away or cut them too short, you lose the 70s "flavor."
How to Get the Look Today
If you’re heading to the salon to get a 70s-inspired short cut, don't just say "70s." That's too vague. You’ll end up with a disco afro or a mullet you didn't ask for.
Instead, ask for "internal layering." This is a technique where the stylist cuts shorter pieces underneath the top layer to provide lift. Also, ask for "point cutting" on the ends. This prevents the hair from looking like a solid, blunt line and gives it that lived-in, shaggy texture that defined the decade.
Bring photos of real people from the era, not just modern influencers. Look at Patti Smith for the "shrunken" shag. Look at Beverly Johnson for the sophisticated short crops. Look at Liza Minnelli for the ultimate dramatic pixie.
Actionable Steps for Styling:
- Start with Volume: Use a lightweight mousse on damp hair. Focus on the roots. 1970s hair was never flat against the scalp.
- Blow-dry with a Round Brush: Focus on pulling the hair forward toward your face and then flicking the ends back.
- Embrace the Frizz: A little bit of texture (what we now call frizz) was actually desirable then. It meant the hair had "body." Don't over-smooth with an iron.
- The "Finger Toss": Once your hair is dry, flip your head upside down, shake it out, and then flip back. Use your fingers to position the bangs. Never use a fine-toothed comb on a finished 70s style—it kills the vibe instantly.
The 70s were a time of massive social change, and the hair reflected that. It was the first time in modern history where "short" didn't mean "masculine" and "long" didn't mean "feminine." It was all fluid. By choosing a short 70s style now, you're tapping into that same sense of freedom. It’s practical, it’s cool, and honestly, it just looks better in photos than a flat, middle-parted bob ever will.
Forget the disco ball cliches. Look at the architecture of the cuts. The 70s was the decade of the brave haircut, and it's time to bring that bravery back to the mirror.