You’ve seen it from the river. Everyone has. It’s that massive, chair-shaped limestone giant that looms over the South Branch, looking like a throne built for a god or maybe just a very wealthy industrialist. 20 North Wacker Drive isn't just an office building. Honestly, calling it an office building feels like a bit of an insult to its ego. It is the Civic Opera House, the Lyric Opera of Chicago, and a 45-story skyscraper all smashed into one Art Deco masterpiece.
It’s weird.
Most skyscrapers are just boxes. They’re glass, steel, and utility. But 20 North Wacker Drive was built with a specific, almost petty, kind of flair. Samuel Insull, the utility magnate who commissioned the thing back in the late 1920s, supposedly wanted the building shaped like a chair facing west—literally turning its "back" on New York’s high society because they hadn't been particularly welcoming to his wife’s acting career. Whether that’s 100% historical fact or just a local legend that’s hardened into truth over the last century, it tells you everything you need to know about the vibe of this place. It’s a building with an attitude.
The Insull Legacy and the "Chair" That Defined the Skyline
Samuel Insull was a powerhouse. He was Thomas Edison’s personal secretary before moving to Chicago and basically inventing the modern power grid. When he decided to build 20 North Wacker Drive, he didn't just want a place for his offices; he wanted a world-class opera house. He got Graham, Anderson, Probst & White—the same firm behind the Wrigley Building and Union Station—to design it.
The result was a 45-story tower flanked by two 22-story wings. If you stand on the West Washington Street bridge and look at it, the "chair" shape is unmistakable. It’s massive.
But here is the thing about the timing: construction finished in 1929.
If you know your history, you know 1929 was a terrible year to finish a massive, expensive project. The stock market crashed just six days before the opera house opened its doors on November 4, 1929, with a performance of Aida. Insull’s empire eventually crumbled, and he died broke in a Paris metro station years later, but he left Chicago with a limestone behemoth that still defines the riverfront.
Inside the Lyric Opera: Gold Leaf and Heavy Curtains
When you walk into the theater portion of 20 North Wacker Drive, the air feels different. It’s heavy. It smells like old money and stage makeup. The auditorium is a cavernous space that seats about 3,500 people, making it the second-largest opera house in North America, trailing only the Met in New York.
The Art Deco details are staggering. We are talking about gold leaf, Austrian crystal chandeliers, and a fire curtain that is a literal work of art.
- The "Fire Curtain" is a hand-painted bronze-colored masterpiece featuring characters from various operas.
- The acoustics are surprisingly tight for a room that big.
- There’s a specific "gold" glow that hits the room when the lights dim, thanks to the hybrid Art Deco and Art Nouveau styling.
I’ve talked to stagehands who have worked there for decades. They’ll tell you that the backstage area is a labyrinth. Because the building is squeezed into a narrow lot between Wacker Drive and the river, there is no "wingspace" on the sides of the stage. Everything goes up. Scenery is flown into the rafters, which are over 100 feet tall. It’s a vertical puzzle.
Beyond the Music: The Modern Business of 20 North Wacker
It’s easy to forget that people actually work here. Like, they sit at desks and send emails while world-class sopranos are warming up their vocal cords downstairs.
The building offers about 840,000 square feet of office space. Over the last decade, it has gone through some serious face-lifts. The owners spent millions—upwards of $100 million in various cycles—to modernize the elevators and the lobby. They had to. You can’t expect a tech startup or a law firm to pay 2026 rent prices for 1929 infrastructure.
One of the coolest spots is the "Civic Opera House" entrance itself, which features a long, grand colonnade. It’s one of the most photographed spots in the city for a reason. The limestone has this warmth to it that modern steel buildings just can't replicate. If you’re a tenant, you get that weird juxtaposition of "I’m in a modern office" and "I’m in a monument to the Jazz Age."
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Why the Location Is Actually Kind of Stressful
Look, Wacker Drive is a nightmare to drive on. If you're visiting 20 North Wacker Drive, don't try to park right there. You'll lose your mind. It’s a bi-level (and in some parts tri-level) road system that confuses GPS and humans alike.
The building sits right on the river, which is great for views but tricky for logistics. However, it’s a three-minute walk from Ogilvie Transportation Center. That’s why it stays relevant. Commuters from the suburbs can hop off the Metra and be at their desks before their coffee gets cold.
The Secret Spaces You Won't See on the Tour
Most people see the lobby and the theater. But 20 North Wacker Drive has layers. There are rehearsal halls hidden in the upper floors where the acoustics are so fine-tuned you can hear a pin drop from across the room. There’s the Graham Room, an exclusive dining area for donors that looks like something out of a 1930s noir film.
Then there is the Pedway.
Chicago’s underground Pedway system is a series of tunnels that let you navigate the Loop without ever touching the snow. A branch of it connects near here, though it's not the most intuitive route. It’s one of those "if you know, you know" things for locals.
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Misconceptions About the "Chair"
I hear this a lot: "Insull built the chair to spite New York."
While it's a great story, architectural historians like those at the Chicago Architecture Center will tell you it was also about the footprint. The lot was narrow. Building "up" in the center while keeping the sides lower for the theater's mechanical needs naturally created that shape. Did Insull lean into the "spite" narrative? Probably. He was a man who understood branding. But the shape was as much about zoning and engineering as it was about his ego.
Another thing people get wrong: they think it’s only for "rich people." Honestly, the Lyric Opera has been trying hard to kill that image. They have "Nights Under 40" programs and cheaper "obstructed view" seats that let you soak in the atmosphere for less than the price of a decent steak dinner.
The Technical Side of Preservation
Maintaining a building this old is a constant battle against the elements. The limestone facade has to be "tuckpointed" (the process of repairing mortar joints) constantly. Chicago winters are brutal. Water gets into the cracks, freezes, expands, and pops the stone.
In the early 2000s, there was a major project to restore the "Finials"—the decorative spikes at the top. They aren't just for show; they are part of the building's soul. If you let the exterior go, the whole "Grand Dame" vibe disappears.
The Future of the Wacker Corridor
With the rise of the "New Post Office" redevelopment nearby and the constant growth of the River Walk, 20 North Wacker Drive is no longer on the edge of the action; it’s the anchor. While newer towers like the Salesforce Tower or the St. Regis get the hype for their height, 20 North Wacker gets the respect for its history.
It survived the Great Depression, the death of the streetcar, the decline of the Loop in the 70s, and the shift to remote work. It stays full because it’s an "identity" building. You don't just lease space there; you lease a piece of Chicago's peak era.
How to Actually Experience the Building
If you want to do 20 North Wacker Drive right, don't just walk past it.
- Book a Tour: The Lyric Opera often runs backstage tours. You get to see the dressing rooms and the massive fly system for the scenery. It's way more interesting than the lobby.
- The River View: Take a boat tour at sunset. When the lights hit the limestone, the building turns a pale gold. It’s the best photo op in the city.
- The Colonnade: Walk through the outdoor hallway on the Wacker side. Look up. The ceiling details are often overlooked by people rushing to catch their train.
- Check the Calendar: Even if you aren't an "opera person," they host jazz events, speakers, and occasionally Broadway touring shows.
Actionable Tips for Visitors
- Skip the car: Take the "L" (Brown, Orange, or Pink lines) to Washington/Wells. It’s a two-block walk.
- Dining: Don't eat at the building unless you're attending a gala. Walk two blocks east to Wells Street for way more (and cheaper) options.
- Security: Since it’s a high-profile office building, you can't just wander into the elevator banks to see the view from the 40th floor. Stick to the public areas or get a ticket for a show.
- Photos: The best angle for the full "chair" effect is from the west side of the river, specifically near the Boeing building (now 110 North Wacker) plaza.
20 North Wacker Drive isn't just a destination; it's a survivor. It represents a time when Chicago was hell-bent on proving it was more than just a "meat-packing town." It wanted culture, it wanted height, and it wanted to look New York in the eye and blink last. Standing at the base of it today, you can still feel that stubborn, beautiful ambition. It is, quite simply, the most "Chicago" building in Chicago.